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Line X questions from a dude that hasn't done Line X before

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by panicman, Apr 27, 2024.

  1. Apr 27, 2024 at 12:52 AM
    #1
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    My 2018 bed has taken some beatings. I kept it clean, but used the truck bed as a truck bed should be- and I always planned to get it protected once my abuses resulted in shit that wouldn't buff out, and we are there. It's time.

    I read up, but the most recent posts are getting old. Wondering if advice has evolved any.

    I would plan on Line X, as that coating has been the most widely used and commented on. I would opt for the UV protective additive. I would request that bed hardware be removed prior to coating, like the major bolts, bed rails, etc...

    Is there anything else I am missing? Anything I should ask for or specify?

    I would plan to use the Line X Vendor in Clackamas (Oregon), as they have been doing this for decades. Any advice from any locals?
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2024
  2. Apr 27, 2024 at 3:55 AM
    #2
    ChrisLopez

    ChrisLopez New Member

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    I just did it a few months back. Highly recommend the premium va standard. Looks great
     
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  3. Apr 27, 2024 at 4:26 AM
    #3
    Crunch527

    Crunch527 Brute Force and Ignorance

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    Not really a big issue here. If they have been doing this for years like you said, then just take it in and have them do the Linex. I have a 2014 that I had done when new and the Linex is still holding up fine. Get the UV variant or whatever equivalent there is now.
     
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  4. Apr 27, 2024 at 5:01 AM
    #4
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Most all places will stop the coating at the flat of the back of the bed and the sides, same for the tailgate. I specifically asked to coat the "crotch" of the bed and tailgate, as well as the corner "crotch" of the bed and tailgate. This area is where any and all shit that you might load into the bed will hit or fall. The guy questioned me when I asked, but then realized that it makes sense! This way if you ever take your tailgate off, the vertical surface of your bed down to the bumper is coated as well as inside of the tail lights. So if you're pushing anything big into the bed, nothing will hit paint. A pic of mine for reference:
    PXL_20240106_170824267~3.jpg

    It only needs a thin coat but it's nice to have those areas protected.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2024
  5. May 18, 2024 at 6:10 PM
    #5
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    I'm back! I got the quote for the premium and it's about what I expected $700-ish.

    However, when I asked if they would remove all of the hardware, they said they would remove everything, but not the bed bolts.

    I thought most people left the bed to frame bolts uncoated?

    Anyone?
     
  6. May 18, 2024 at 6:28 PM
    #6
    Ponderosa_Pine

    Ponderosa_Pine

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    Yeah that’s unusual, my two tundras that were linexd had the bolts removed. It’s actually just a big T55 bit I think and they can just unbolt with a ratchet. 700$ for premium is a good deal, mine wasn’t much less in 2021.

    IMG_1961.jpg
     
  7. May 18, 2024 at 6:40 PM
    #7
    NatesNightMare

    NatesNightMare Is what it is

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    Worth it
     
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  8. May 18, 2024 at 7:09 PM
    #8
    d33pt

    d33pt New Member

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    When mine got coated, they didn't remove the bed bolts either. When the bed needed to be removed for collision repair, I had to cut around the bolts for the bed to come out. When put back, it didn't look as nice. So I'd ask them to take off the bed bolts before lining in the future.
     
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  9. May 18, 2024 at 7:26 PM
    #9
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Cool story, but did your new TTV6 tow a shuttle?

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    Take out bed bolts yourself on site??
     
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  10. May 18, 2024 at 11:59 PM
    #10
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    That's what I'm thinking.
     
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  11. May 19, 2024 at 6:58 AM
    #11
    trucksareforgirls2

    trucksareforgirls2 New Member

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    Same thing here, bolts were removed, and it still looks good after almost 4 years! I think it's probably the "standard" line x vs the premium because I talked the stealership into paying for it if when I bought the truck.

    Trucklinx.HEIC.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2024
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  12. May 19, 2024 at 7:01 AM
    #12
    centex

    centex New Member

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    Mine have never been removed in the three trucks I’ve had it done in. Never had an issue with it either. Not like I need to remove the bed often. And if so, a wire wheel makes easy work of stripping it.
     
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  13. May 19, 2024 at 7:50 AM
    #13
    NomadicFrog

    NomadicFrog Took 5 yrs, finally got rid of "New Member" here

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    I'll add another, somewhat funny, reason for gettin' into the "crotches".

    The previous owner of my truck had installed a spray-in bedliner, and apparently they had done at least a little bit of what you describe (not all of the vertical, but at least well over the lip).

    Went camping deep in the Maze District of Canyonlands. Woke up after a great night of deep sleep to the sun shining on the amazing rock formations...and to my friend, sitting on the tailgate of his 2006 Tundra, head in his hands, with everything that had been inside his truck bed strewn about on the ground around his truck.

    Apparently a mouse or mice got into his truck bed while he was sleeping (we both have camper shells and sleep in the back) and he spent most of the night trying to find it/them, get them out, and figure out how they were getting in in the first place.

    Turns out the gap between the tailgate and the bed on his truck was big enough for mice to squeeze through – he did not have a bedliner – and the spray-in bedliner on my truck was enough to close the gap sufficiently to prevent mice from getting in.

    *Unrelated side note: I was brand new to trucks in general, and my 2003, when I got it in 2018, still looked like it just rolled off the assembly line (it, uh, no longer does). I didn't know how well bedliners held up, and I didn't want to damage anything unnecessarily. So I bought a thick rubber bed mat to put on top of the bedliner to protect it. ;) One of these days I should probably get that unnecessary weight out and get an extra mpg.
     
  14. Jun 10, 2024 at 6:40 PM
    #14
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    Got her done! I'm pleased with how it turned out. Here was my experience...

    The shop I went to has been around forever. NW Running Boards. They said they would pull everything stock to the truck, but they would not pull the bed bolts. I wanted the bed bolts out because I plan to add D ring tie downs. So, I bought some much smaller hex bolts and installed those the day before my appointment. I also went ahead and pulled my bed rails- to be helpful but also to clean them thoroughly so they'll look nice when I put everything back in. They did pull the tailgate access panel and shot it separately, and left the hardware bare. They gave me the choice of leaving the cargo hooks in place or pulling them. They offered to touch them up if I left them on and then banged the finish up in the future, so I left them.

    This shop does wrap the Linex down into the joint between the bed and the tailgate, but would only agree to go down about a quarter inch.

    They also wrapped the Line X out from the sides of the bed. I got the premium, and it was $700. Everyone in the shop was friendly. They came out with me and the guy who did the liner walked through how he would apply it, what he would be willing to remove, and what he wouldn't do. I dropped the truck at 9 and it was ready to pick up before 1. They charged me at pick up.
    Also, they do place their Line X badge without discussing that. I'm fine with it, but if you care make sure to tell them not to stick it in there.
    IMG_0667.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
     
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  15. Jun 11, 2024 at 5:10 AM
    #15
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Nice!
    Looks like they did a very clean job.
    :thumbsup:
     
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  16. Jun 13, 2024 at 7:43 PM
    #16
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    Today I got to cut around the temporary bed bolts, remove the Line X covering them, and install the original bed bolts clean, but now with added tie downs.
    IMG_0683.jpg

    I scored pretty cleanly all around the temporary washers with a razor.
    IMG_0676.jpg

    I used a flat blade to create a split, and followed the scoremark all the way around as cleanly as possible, and removed the Line X from the bolt and washer.
    IMG_0677.jpg
    IMG_0679.jpg
    I carefully pried the washer out of the finish, and then razored-down and ridges.
    IMG_0680.jpg
    In went the hardware.
    IMG_0684.jpg
     
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  17. Jun 13, 2024 at 7:46 PM
    #17
    d33pt

    d33pt New Member

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    That looks great. Pretty good idea of putting temp bolts and washers so you keep your stock hardware clean.
     
  18. Jun 13, 2024 at 7:47 PM
    #18
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    Thanks- I couldn't think of any other way to do it.
     
  19. Jun 13, 2024 at 10:02 PM
    #19
    ZappBrannigan

    ZappBrannigan The mind is willing but the flesh is weak

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    Looks great. I’ve had mine for 6 years and it’s got some dings, but overall is still in good condition. The exception to this, is the bed bolts which have peeled off.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2024 at 7:29 AM
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  20. Jun 15, 2024 at 10:12 AM
    #20
    Chelly

    Chelly ...

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    Great info, I've driven by NW Running Boards in clackamas and still plan to eventually get the bed liner done. Great to see an example of the work they do. Do the water drains in the front of the bed still work after the liner? Also, if you don't mind, what size hex bolts did you purchase for the bed? Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2024 at 10:29 AM
  21. Jun 15, 2024 at 11:11 AM
    #21
    panicman

    panicman [OP] Everyone remain calm.

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    I haven't tested the drains, and darn it, I put my diamondback on already.

    The bolts I used are 12m x 100. Pitch 1.25.

    You can get away with M12 x 80 for the rearmost mounts, but the front 4 require longer bolts. None of them are long enough or strong enough to leave on for long.

    120 length would be better. I was able to buy the six bolts and washers by the pound at Wilco, and the cost was around $10. Priced as marked, each bolt is almost $10!
     
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  22. Jun 15, 2024 at 1:44 PM
    #22
    Chelly

    Chelly ...

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    Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I may have to get this done sooner than later.
     

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