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Limped home at 5mph after being on the freeway

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Metoobutilikedit, Oct 14, 2020.

  1. Oct 14, 2020 at 6:35 PM
    #1
    Metoobutilikedit

    Metoobutilikedit [OP] New Member

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    02 Tundra V6 5VZ-FE.
    I was on the freeway doing fine for 15 miles or so then I felt the truck kind of stall. Kept driving and it seemed fine, but then it happened again, then it slowly got worse as I drove on. Eventually I was pushing the gas pedal but nothing was happening until all of a sudden it would kick in and it was like I slammed on the gas pedal. I was close to home, I dropped the automatic into a lower gear and it seemed to drive OK at around 4K on the tach, I put it back in regular D and it did fine but then I lost power again, nothing happening. I put it in neutral to see if it was a transmission problem but the engine still didn't react when I pushed the gas so I put it back in drive. The check engine light still wasn't on yet. I coasted off the freeway for safety as a hill was coming up.
    I managed to get home (only 1.5 miles away from where I was) putting it in D and getting up to around 5 to 7 mph and put it back in neutral and coasting. The engine kept running while in neutral, but when I stuck it in gear I could get to about 5 mph or so before it wanted to stall out. By the time I finally got home I hit the gas one last time to get momentum and I heard what sounded like backfiring from the front of the truck.
    The check engine light came on and I got 5 codes, here they are in order:
    P0172, P1130, P0172, P0136, P01130

    I noticed two of them repeated
    I just did a valve cover gasket change and a tune up around 1K miles ago. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor.
    I also pulled the vacuum line off the brake booster and blew an entire cigar's worth of smoke into it and I didn't see the smoke leaking from anywhere. I also replaced the downstream O2 sensor about a year ago already.

    It starts fine with the usual high RPM for the first 30 seconds or so but it seems to be idling at around 1200 and once warmed up and I push the gas I can hear it's not running right. I haven't taken it out on the streets again yet.

    I can't imagine both the air/fuel sensor and O2 sensor would go out at the exact same time. I was thinking it was a vacuum problem but the cigar test didn't show any leaks.

    What do you suggest? I'm just a shade tree mechanic, no real training but I am youtube certified. Basic tools, not much else. I have never been in a truck that was running fine one minute and limping home the next. And of course I have to smog it soon too upload_2020-10-14_18-31-25.gif
     
    Black Wolf and YardBird like this.
  2. Oct 14, 2020 at 7:42 PM
    #2
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    Certified by Scotty's school of lacquer thinner treatments?
     
  3. Oct 14, 2020 at 7:58 PM
    #3
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark 2 hours ago... "I'll be done in a minute"

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    Replace oxy bank 1 sensor 1 (upstream) with oem sensor, clear codes and see what happens.

    Edit: I would think that if it was a fuel pressure or vacuum leak it would throw codes for both sides, not one side. 0172 is because the oxy sensor won’t provide info for good mixture. I had vacuum leak the other day because I forgot to hook up a vacuum tube after replacing belt tensioner and it threw codes for oxy sensor on both sides plus the 0172.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2020
    Metoobutilikedit [OP] likes this.
  4. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:17 PM
    #4
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    Dont buy a sensor. A bad o2 wont shut your engine down. it will just go into open loop default a/f schedules. O2 code is telling you you have an air fuel ratio problem. focus on the fact that bank 1 has either so much fuel or so little air the vehicle is undrivable. Thats not a dirty maf or a small vacuum hose thats loose. It would seem that air flow cutoff would affect both banks, so focus on where a massive fuel input could come from on one side only, and work from there. an obd reader with live data pids might come in handy here. familiarity with the fuel rail might come in handy too.
     
    Metoobutilikedit [OP] likes this.
  5. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:17 PM
    #5
    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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    American Thunder Cat Back ~ Retrax Pro ~ Toyota Bed Mat ~ OEM Split Spoke Wheels
    Welcome aboard from SoCal.
    Sorry for all your trouble. Keep us posted with your results.
    SC.jpg
     
  6. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:20 PM
    #6
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark 2 hours ago... "I'll be done in a minute"

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    From what I read the bank 1 sensor 1 code show a circuit malfunction rather than a code for lean condition. Oxy sensor is cheap anyway. But certainly could be something else.
     
  7. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:22 PM
    #7
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    Did your vehicle refuse to maintain 10 mph?
     
  8. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:29 PM
    #8
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    Bank 1 massive exhaust leak would be similar, but you would think it would be really loud and obvious.
     
    Metoobutilikedit [OP] likes this.
  9. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:29 PM
    #9
    Dalandshark

    Dalandshark 2 hours ago... "I'll be done in a minute"

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    @10 blue trucks I was just providing rationale for my comments, not saying you are wrong.
     
  10. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:42 PM
    #10
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    i don't know if his o2s are good or bad or if his cats completely clogged or if his injector exploded. but buying parts before diagnosing is an expensive rabbit hole of guess work. that I avoid at all costs.
     
    Lil Steve likes this.
  11. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:48 PM
    #11
    baraynavab

    baraynavab New Member

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    https://t.me/ToyotaFSMHow many miles are on it? I had this same engine in the T100. And although not necessarily similar issue I did some major troubleshooting with some system too lean issues. The issue that fixed my problem was a new fuel filter and fuel pump. Here's the link to what i did. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/high-mileage-t100-t-shooting-what-should-i-do-fixed-now.1212018/

    Also this engine is very well troubleshooted on 4runner's and Tacoma's forums and a very few T100. I would search these error codes with 4runners or Tacoma's v6's and see what they come up with. Here one I got for you - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGYezJKoPho

    And here's the google link for u. - https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...hUKEwj51_SC17XsAhUQlHIEHbXWCTYQ4dUDCA0&uact=5

    The first cheap fix I would do before swapping out the o2 sensors is clean the MAF and see if that worked (MAF Cleaner (only used MAF cleaner) from Wally world is ~$6-8). If not change out the fuel filter(cheap ~$10-15) verify if your fuel pump (non oem is also cheap ~25-35 of Amazon) is working okay..I would just swap it out if you have boat load of miles.

    Then check to see if the problem persist... figure out if its some bad fuel injectors or 02. sensors. Just search for them via this link -

    There are FSM for 4runner/Tacoma/T100 with the 5vz-fe engine that you may want to check out. Here's a link to where you can find them all via this link https://t.me/ToyotaFSM.

    Lastly you really need to find out your fuel trims. via a obd 2 sensor to really find out what are your Long Term and Short Term fuel trims. (LTFT, STFT). BTW my T100 has 390k miles on it. Runs like a champ after I made these changes.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2020
    Metoobutilikedit [OP] likes this.
  12. Oct 14, 2020 at 8:56 PM
    #12
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    P0172 is described as Fuel System Too Rich, which basically means bank 1’s oxygen sensor has detected a rich condition of fuel. This means there’s not enough oxygen in the exhaust from too much fuel being delivered into the air and gas mixture for combusion. Bank 1 is located at the side of the engine that contains cylinder #1.
     
  13. Oct 14, 2020 at 9:08 PM
    #13
    baraynavab

    baraynavab New Member

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    Trust me please look up the P0172 code with 4runners and Tacoma's - Do not change the o2 sensor first. clean the MAF and do what I said in my post before.. O2 sensors going bad happens but troubleshoot the other stuff first before swapping.
     
    Metoobutilikedit [OP] likes this.
  14. Oct 14, 2020 at 9:18 PM
    #14
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    :monocle:
     
  15. Oct 14, 2020 at 9:36 PM
    #15
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    how does a dirty maf sensor cause a rich condition and only affect one bank?
     
  16. Oct 16, 2020 at 2:07 PM
    #16
    Metoobutilikedit

    Metoobutilikedit [OP] New Member

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    Here's an update:

    I deep dove into other blogs on this V6 5VZ-FE and a lot of people were having vacuum or intake leaks.
    After my cigar smoke test I wasn't satisfied that there wasn't a vacuum leak so I started thinking about changing all the vacuum lines, after all they are the original ones on the truck (2002 with 101K miles). Autozone was no help so I decided to pick up this fuel pump/vacuum tester from Harbor Freight for less than fifteen bucks. Here's a video of my test.

    https://youtu.be/XEaNh3NRbA0

    from what I can tell it doesn't appear that there is a vacuum leak.

    I drove the truck around today for a few miles and it seemed to accelerate all the way up into fourth gear just fine, no stalling or hesitation. The CEL is still glowing of course. Because it was running fine for those couple of miles I don't think I have a fuel pump/pressure issue. Plus the manual says to get a gauge that'll read up to 60psi and this harbor freight one looks like it only goes to 10psi.

    I also recleaned the MAF and made sure the air filter is clean enough.

    Next I'm going to change the fuel filter since it's easy and cheap. I know it won't solve this problem but it needs to be done, I think it's original too.
    Would a bad fuel injector have it's own code and not one of the ones I've gotten?

    I know I'm new here, I really appreciate everyone's help.
     
  17. Oct 16, 2020 at 6:06 PM
    #17
    baraynavab

    baraynavab New Member

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    Yes bad fuel injector will give you p0300 generic misfire code to -0306 codes saying there is a misfire in the perticular cylinder(s). But you may have this without the code being set.

    What does your fuel trims say?

    Btw how. Many miles did you say your truck has?
     
  18. Oct 16, 2020 at 9:51 PM
    #18
    Metoobutilikedit

    Metoobutilikedit [OP] New Member

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    just over 101,000 miles. In CA gas is expensive and 16mpg isn't the best :) We mostly use it when we go camping or take the kayak out, or need to haul stuff around. It was supposed to be the family vehicle, but the back bench doesn't really allow for much room for three growing kids.
     
  19. Oct 17, 2020 at 6:06 AM
    #19
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    banana in the tailpipe. Since it idles fine. run it for a couple minutes till it gets warm. shoot an exhaust pipe temp with a infrared thermometer a couple inches before and after each cat. the post cat temps should be higher than pre cat.
     
  20. Oct 17, 2020 at 7:24 AM
    #20
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    I had a similar issue on an s-10, going fine then NOTHING, NO POWER!!! IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE UTAH!!!
    Sorry, caps lock got stuck, anyway, I pulled off, unbolted the catlytic converter, and it was fine. Evidently the innards of the converter just fell apart and clogged the exhaust(195,000 miles on the truck)
     

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