Let's See Your Caps

Have any of you done anything to your rear suspension to reclaim some spring arc and ride height sapped by the weigh of your cap? There is a universal opinion on here that factory leafs are on the flimsy side to begin with.

A fiberglass cap, snugtop, on my 6.5ft bed weighs what? 200#? 250#? I do have sumo springs, but those don't do anything for an unloaded truck (mine lightly touch the frame)

I've evaluated blocks, shackles and RAS, none of those resonate with me.

Given that the cap weight is permanent, I'm wondering if a progressive add-a-leaf isn't the way to go.

I tow a rented travel trailer a few times a year.

 

So when I decided to upgrade my rear suspension, I had 9 years on the current one with the cap. I did Icon AAL pack and bought the Torch AAL. Those added about 4 inches of lift with the cap on top, so maybe 5 or 6 inches of lift based on how low mine was sitting over the years. I put the sumo springs in as well when I did the leafs. The Sumo Springs were basically useless because of the 4 inches of spring lift. Eventually I bought a 4 inch spacer meant for airbags and rigged it up to sit between the frame and the sump springs, so now it works out pretty well. If you just want an inch of lift and don't want to waste your sumo spring, you can just put a one inch block in under the springs. If you would prefer some better springs action, you could try just one AAL for 1 to 2 inches of lift and then buy an airbag spacer like I did to mount between the sumo springs and frame. They make different width air bag spacers for different size lifts. There's a million options, for better or worse, and the only way to find out what works best is to try some of them!

 

Only thing I did was add the rear sway bar, plan on doing the front when it warms up.

 

I have the TRD version, so I never had to experiment without it, but my mechanic brother told me it should help a lot with stability. Not gonna help with squatting of the suspension, unfortunately.
I did, however, drive without it for a day after I put my new lifted springs in, and I couldn't believe how much more body roll there was in just normal driving. Definitely a good investment if you don't already have one.

 

Adding the cap on mine really only made the ride better overall!
I will likely add rear sway bar for a little better handling but not considering any lift or other mod.
When I tow, again this just adds to the smoothness usually too.

 

You bring up a good point. When I wasn't towing a fully loaded 10,000 pound trailer. I loved the feeling of the truck overall with stock suspension and a cap. But I had one last trip from Pennsylvania to Florida to move my sister and they loaded my trailer so heavy up front. My truck was frame on leaf spring for most of the ride and every bump felt like I was literally bouncing on the ground. That made me realize I needed to do something with my old suspension if I every wanted a comfortable towing ride.

In hindsight, I would tell anybody that doesn't want to lift their truck to just get airbags. That way you can tune it to whatever application you need, whenever you want!

 

Maybe also make sure that the load is centered over the Axle on the trailer too.
Everything about heavy or even light towing is improved by properly balancing the load in the trailer in my experience and it also has taken a few bad rides to convince me well enough that I dont forget too!

 

I'm generally pretty good at loading my truck/trailer. Unfortunately, I did not load it that time. The tongue wait was definitely too high for the trip, but it could have been way better if I just had a better bump stop or airbags, or maybe even fresh leaf springs. Mine were pretty beat from 13 years of abuse, so I didn't mind replacing and upgrading them.

 

I guess I should have mentioned, I added a TRD sway bar this winter. I like the way it rides/handles. I just don't like that the frame contacts the sumos with no load.

 

Agreed, mine rides better now. I purchased a lift on a sale during Christmas, got the top, and now I don't see the immediate need for it.

 

My son’s latest purchase (smart kid!!)

 

These shells weigh just enough to drop the rear an inch or so.

I also started with Sumo Springs and the TRD sway bar. Didn’t really like the Sumo Springs almost touching when I was in my version of unloaded (come on there is some crap that always stays back there, right?). Wasn’t interested in going full suspension makeover, and I’ve seen several people post about their 2 yr old aftermarket leaf springs going ~flat, nevermind the somewhat harsher ride the heavier leaf springs give.


I wasn’t sure about the RAS at first, but all I could find ANYWHERE was positive comments, so I gave it a shot. Was a little disappointed I had to pay to have a shop install them; I had anticipated installing them myself. But, when jacked up and supported per the install instructions, there was still a little load on the shackle, and I was afraid I wouldn’t be able to reassemble it after taking it apart.

RAS gave me almost an inch of recovered ride height. Ride is smooth unloaded, no added harshness at all. I have been very pleased so far. I haven’t had reason to put a bunch of weight back there since adding SS and RAS, but I am expecting a real lack of squat when I have the first opportunity to go get 1500+ lbs of dog food for shelter.

As for the sway bar, I took it off after I got the Sumo Springs and had decided on RAS. Don’t feel like I miss it at all with my current setup.

 

I was carrying some stuff for my daughter and her family from their old house to the one they just moved into and noticed the seal from the topper lift gate is damaging the paint on the truck tailgate.

Does anyone know what I can use to stop it?

 

Use PPF on my gate 2”

 

I’ve got a strip of ppf there.

 

Thats what I had on my old tundra with ARE Z SERIES ,did the job,
My current tundra I bought a used AREz , the previous owner cut the seal where it just
Touching top edge of gate cap, doesn’t touch paint

 

Mine is rubbing the paint also

 

I had a strip of linex put there.

 

Thanks guys, I'll be looking for some PPF.

 

Anyone interested in a ARE CX HD topper? (500lbs roof rack weigh limit).
White
built in 500lbs. roof rack system
also includes Yakima track system mounted IN BETWEEN the built in roof rack system (runs north to south on topper)
6.5' bed
Carpeted interior
Slider windows
locking rear window
Zero flaws, the truck literally sits in the driveway.




Send PM if serious.

Located in New Jersey.

 

3m paint protection film

 

Leer with a rack

 

Finally a member of the MID-RISE club, and love it.

 

That looks great!! I ended up going with a Softopper due to price and availability of hard shells.

 

Went round and round for about 2 yrs and finally decided for new prices of soft topper at 1100.plus tax, found Ranch at 1999. with free x-tras,plus tax . Couldn't pass up the security camping , and traveling of a hard top, for only 1200 more.

 

Welcome to the DC Mid-Rise club. Club is just an excuse to post pic.

 

Tom,
What are the specs on that cap and roughly what does that cost?

 

What specs are you asking for? It's a RANCH MID-RISE, sets about 4" above the cab, cap base price was 1999.00,came with choice of 2 free options between, fully carpeted ,6' led light w/auto switch, cargo net, drop down front window w/slider, I took free 6'LED w/auto on when door lifted, and carpeted, pd 100.00 for front window and 100 for cargo net, so total 2199.00 plus tax,

 

Mine is an ARE MX. Sliding side windows, fully carpeted, fold-down / removable front window, single center rear window latch, and top rails. I paid right at $2200. I got a quote thru ARE website from a local big ARE dealer and took to another small dealer and showed the quote and beat it by a couple hundred.

 

Thanks Tom. Thinking about getting that cap. Do the side windows also lift up?