Let's See Your Caps

You can not just blame this one on the Cap though?

This truck is full on pappy either way to me.

 

This is awesome on So Many Levels !
Totally made My Day !
Thank you Sir !!!!

 

Kinda reminds me of a trucker's cap

 

That squarebody is badass on so many levels, though.

Similar to a Cheyenne that my dad had when I was a kid.

 

Added a Prinsu on the topper, fit right on the existing tracks. https://prinsudesignstudio.com/product/tt2-toprack-5-5-bed/

 

Do you have any photos of how you mounted the rack to your cap? I have been thinking about picking up a rack but my cap doesn’t have mounting rails.

 

That will create some challenges since I believe most rails are factory installed....I for one wouldn't attempt that myself. You might check with the brand /local cap dealer and see if they can retro install rails for you. That is a much bigger deal than putting the rack on the rails...I have an ATC cap and had Rino rails factory installed and later put a UPtopOverland rack on that. Most rails can marry up with almost any brand of rack but screwing through that cap and doing it straight and preventing leaks is not for the faint of heart. Like I said I wouldn't attempt it myself....

 

The rack is meant to be installed on rails. like @dkrou said I wouldn't attempt drilling. Getting rails added to a topper should be easy and cheap for any topper dealer.
Here's some photos as requested.

 

I just talked to my topper guys they do it all the time...its about two hours of labor plus the cost of the rails.

 

Super easy to do. just take your time. Get a roll of blue masking tape to mock-up where you wanna mount them. Take a 6 foot ladder and get up on it from a ways away to make sure you got it straight. Do this from the front and back. Measure, measure, and re-measure . . . then triple check it with your eyes from on top of the ladder. I did it on a new Snug Top years ago on a truck that had an 8 foot bed.
Just tape the mounting hardware down when you mark the holes. (keep them separate and mark them passengers/drivers side front/back . . . sometimes they aren't exactly the same) . . . . depending on the hole size, you can drill a pilot hole 1st if you like.

Another thing you can do is get a tube of 3M 5200 or 4200 marine sealant and put some in the hole, around the hole, and on the bolt before installing, this will prevent leaks. (Don't use silicone, the stuff is crap for this and won't stick).

If you wanna make life Super Simple, dry fit it first with a couple bolts, then mask-off the entire area, that 5200/4200 is a snotty mess. Have a can of acetone and a roll of paper towels handy to aid in clean-up.

Oh yeah . . . that 5200/4200 will likely leak, spill down into the bed through the bolt holes, so either put a drop cloth in there, are have someone with a rag down there catching/wiping the goop. Don't be stingy with the sealant, you'll be 100% waterproof.

Lastly, mine came with some cool red rubber screw covers for the inside to prevent you from gashing your skull if you ever knock your head inside the shell . . . . trust me from experience, they are worth their weight in gold.

It's super easy to do, and you can place it exactly where you want it . . . save yourself some dough, and it's kind of a fun project.

 

I just bought a Prinsu and I'm waiting to get my extra crossbar before I put it on. I might be wrong, but are your sides upside down? Isn't that hole in the first photo supposed to face up so you can mount crossbars vertically on each end?

It probably doesn't matter either way if you're not using a vertical crossbar.

 

HB Tundra is right on track. Take your time and DIY and I bet you'll do a much better job than any of the "Tech's" at the dealers shop.

Also, if you decide to go the 3M 5200 route, you could stick those tracks on without using bolts, if you really wanted to (caveat: Depending on what you're going haul up there, I might use one bolt at each end of the track, just in case). I use 5200 on my boat where I don't want to drill holes to mount stuff and those items are going NOWHERE. That stuff is freaking awesome.

Here's a couple of examples.

Used it to glue this solar cable gland to the roof of the boat because I didn't want to drill thru the top. Ain't going nowhere.


Also used it to glue mahogany strips to the inside of the cabin (at the top) to mount things to. Again, ain't going nowhere.

 

I installed my Yakima myself. Not too hard, measure twice and cut once. Using painter's tape is a good idea, I used a dry erase marker. If you have an ARE, pay attention to the thickness change inside to avoid landing on a slope. I used the sealant that came with the rails, but 5200 would be awesome. It is strong and permanent. Like @Taco-Bender said, you could probably use it to affix your rails, but as good as it is I've never trusted just an adhesive for something I don't want to come loose, like my rack with a cargo box and awning on it. But you could reduce the holes to two per rail and use the 5200 under the rest of the rail.

 

After reading all of this and getting the HD roof that is rated for 900 lbs...see photo for interior drawer set up I'm sure glad I got rails installed at the factory.

 

I put it together per the instructions which show the flat side facing up (bump side down)
https://prinsudesignstudio.com/wp-c...-Rack-Installation-Instructions-9-27-19-4.pdf

holes might be for an awning? not sure exactly what they're for.

 

You're right. Thanks. I watched a youtube video where the dude said it was for a vertical crossbar. Seemed logical because you could box off either end, which is what I was planning on doing.

I called Prinsu and the extra holes are for an o-ring mount, not a crossbar.

 

Anyone have any advice for traveling with the shell door open? I use a tailgate pad for bikes and drive with the door open, but can see it bouncing in the sideview mirror. The gas strut mounts are bending every time the window bounces, and I think in the long run they will break from fatigue. I used to bungee it down, but the new gas struts are too strong for that.

 

After searching for about 4 months I found this ARE V series for a steal at $450. I was surprised he wanted so little considering it did have a few options, the full tilt down front window, roof tracks, and heavy duty dog screen.

 

I would be afraid of hitting a bump and eventually shattering the glass. You might look into a hitch mounted carrier

 

Great advice everyone, it’s much appreciated. I will update if I pull the trigger on some rails and a rack . Y’all convinced me to DIY it

 

4 months later my ARE got installed today. I am function over form these days. I am really excited about the extra room inside from the mid rise canopy.

 

welcome to the MX club.

 

i looked! I cudn't find the club! please point me to it!

 

Here’s mine

 

more pics please.
howz the fitment?

 

Fits good. A lot better in person than it looked on pictures I saw before I got it. But it was gonna be more about function than form. I was also going to have it color matched but decided to keep with the black and remove the stickers.

 

Can we please see inside pictures or video of functionality? Looks amazing friend!

 

Sure I’ll take some this afternoon. I think the fit is pretty good to the shape of the rear of the cab.

 

Did you look at the contractor version of their cap? Not sure how different it is but its white and a few dollars less than the one you have.