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LCA Ball Joint Replacement on 2007+ 2nd and 3rd Gen Tundra

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by csuviper, Apr 19, 2017.

  1. Apr 19, 2017 at 1:54 PM
    #1
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Has anyone replaced their LCA ball joints on their 2nd or 3rd Gen Tundra?
    They are pressed in so wondering how hard it is with a rented ball joint press?
    What manufacturer makes the best LCA ball joint replacement?

    [​IMG]


    IMG_0381_zps31832ac8_c0cce589414fe821426ba2268d42b1d5fac05768.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
  2. Apr 19, 2017 at 1:56 PM
    #2
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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  3. Apr 19, 2017 at 2:00 PM
    #3
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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  4. Apr 19, 2017 at 2:03 PM
    #4
    tomsinamerica

    tomsinamerica New Member

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    do you have an impact gun? using the rented press with a breaker bar will get tedious quickly. Impact gun should do the job but for pressing things, if i can use hydraulic equipment then i would...
     
  5. Apr 19, 2017 at 2:15 PM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    I do
     
  6. Apr 19, 2017 at 3:39 PM
    #6
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Personally I would probably replace the entire Lower Control Arm. The first AC Delco one you listed looks pretty good.
     
  7. Apr 19, 2017 at 4:07 PM
    #7
    Mike

    Mike Tread lightly.

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Piss on those links brian.. all China

    Moog or go home. You will thank me later.
     
  8. Apr 19, 2017 at 4:12 PM
    #8
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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  9. Apr 19, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #9
    Spvrtan

    Spvrtan Amateur fabricator

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  10. Apr 19, 2017 at 4:55 PM
    #10
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    you know you want it...DO IT
     
  11. Apr 19, 2017 at 6:36 PM
    #11
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Gggmmm I was thinking of replacing mine since I am on a 6 inch lift.

    eBay has them for the full arm for under $70.
     
  12. Apr 19, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #12
    CM-LENNY

    CM-LENNY No Complaints

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    I 100 % agree with Mike. Go Moog..........
     
  13. Apr 19, 2017 at 7:16 PM
    #13
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Problem is I believe Mogg only makes a upper ball joint and not a lower.
     
  14. Apr 19, 2017 at 7:39 PM
    #14
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Im willing to bet your lower is made by Moog ( all vehicles run on Moog regardless of manufacture)

    Check a few part stores who sell Moog. I know advance Auto parts sells lowers on moog replace the whole assembly.
     
  15. Feb 6, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #15
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    @csuviper hi Brian, curious how you made out with your lower ball joints? I was under my truck the other day and noticed my driver side lower was leaking grease so I'm planning to replace both sides. I haven't found much info either way in regards to doing just the joints, what brand or biting the money bullet and doing complete LCA's.
     
  16. Feb 6, 2018 at 7:46 PM
    #16
    UTTundra

    UTTundra New Member

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    Haven't seen anyone post this elsewhere. Moog makes an entire LCA with new bushings and ball joints. I've seen it as low as $115 on Amazon.

    http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-rk621303
     
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  17. Feb 6, 2018 at 8:29 PM
    #17
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    I never did replace them. Maybe next big overhaul I will. Few years or so down the road when I have the front Coilovers serviced.
     
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  18. Feb 6, 2018 at 8:29 PM
    #18
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    Thanks UTTundra! I've seen the Moogs and Mevotech LCA's, but haven't seen them that cheap. I'm on the fence as far as which way to go, joint or whole LCA. I've had good luck with Moog in the past but have read some questionable info about their ball joints, Mevotech's as well. And I can't seem to find a parts breakdown that lists just the OEM ball joint from Toyota.
     
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  19. Feb 6, 2018 at 8:31 PM
    #19
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    There you go a perfect cheap moog replacement. Way cheaper than with stock Toyota part.
     
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  20. Feb 7, 2018 at 7:34 AM
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    UTTundra

    UTTundra New Member

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    I've also noticed a little seepage from my lower ball joints lately (both sides). I'm not sure if a little is normal or not. I'm also getting some tightness in my turning when pulling into a parking space for example. I also get some popping when I turn the wheel with the brakes applied. I've torqued LCA pivot bolts, upper ball joint, upper UCA pivots. I've tried rocking the wheel when off the ground to check for play and 9/3 o'clock and 12/6 o'clock. There didn't seem to be any play in the tie rods or ball joints, but seemed to be some in the steering. Not sure how much is normal, though.
     
  21. Feb 7, 2018 at 7:45 AM
    #21
    ToyotaTundraMike

    ToyotaTundraMike Not A New Member

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    I have been getting that popping noise while turning that you describe. Trying to figure it out myself, please lmk if you solve it.
     
  22. Feb 7, 2018 at 7:51 AM
    #22
    UTTundra

    UTTundra New Member

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    Will do. It was really bad the first time I heard it. Thought maybe a rock got trapped somewhere like the brake backing plate. It's still there, but nowhere near as bad. I'm thinking lower ball joint, something with the brakes, intermediate steering shaft (lower), or rack.
     
  23. Feb 7, 2018 at 8:12 AM
    #23
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    I haven't experienced any popping, steering is normal, it's holding alignment and I don't have any out of the ordinary tire wear. Just the leaky driver side BJ. I have a slow afternoon today so I may put her on the hoist and take another look at that boot and try to pump some grease in it for the time being.
     
  24. Feb 16, 2018 at 12:53 AM
    #24
    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 Moby Dick

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    I have replaced my LBJs after 164k miles, they were a complete b*tch to press out with a manual c clamp style press. I can not recommend a hydraulic press enough, I ended up taking my LCAs to work and using a 55ton press to install my new LBJs. I went with the Beck and arnley bjs for 2 reasons. I couldn’t afford OEM at the time, and Moog is shit now, I wouldn’t put them on a radio flyer wagon. I also had the popping noise so I replaced my bearings and hubs also, honestly I don’t think I’ve heard the noise again but not 100%. The Beck and Arnley ball joints I got are stamped 555 and are made in Japan, they were very quality and the ride in my truck is amazing again. If you don’t believe me about Moog do a little digging on some first gen Tundra pages, they have a strong hatred for Moog due to constant premature failures.
     
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  25. Feb 16, 2018 at 5:09 AM
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    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    Moog is crap, go with the Beck/Arnley ones for $50. (moog premium for half that price, think about it,) or go with Toyota. The Mevotech control arm is ok if you need bushings, but the Ball joint will not last long. That popping noise could be your front brake caliper....I have researched this to no end, because my whole front end is new, except those calipers. My only other culprit is the rack and pinion. All new poly bushings, so it's in there tight. Maybe internal.
     
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  26. Feb 16, 2018 at 8:28 AM
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    UTTundra

    UTTundra New Member

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    I'll have to look into just replacing the lbjs with the beck and arnleys. Were you just using a ratchet when pressing them out? You think it would be easier using an impact?
     
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  27. Feb 16, 2018 at 9:30 AM
    #27
    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 Moby Dick

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    I was using a breaker bar with a 3’ cheater and would tighten it until I was about to hurt myself, then I’d have to beat the press with a 2lb hammer to get the ball joint to move, then start the process over. The little presses just don’t have enough ass and our ball joints are yuuuggeee, our press at work didn’t even know it was there.
     
  28. Feb 16, 2018 at 9:44 AM
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    UTTundra

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    Damn. Shit like that makes me want to just replace the entire LCA, but the options seem to be Moog for $125 or OEM for $$$.
     
  29. Feb 16, 2018 at 10:02 AM
    #29
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Why is Moog shit now?
     
  30. Feb 16, 2018 at 10:33 AM
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    TexasTundra27

    TexasTundra27 Moby Dick

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    I’ve seen a lot of post on FB about failures at 30k or less miles, supposedly made in Mexico now. OEM is best, but after that I’d rather have another Japanese product vs a lower quality Chinese or Mexican product.
    Harbor freight has a small hydraulic press for a decent price, worth considering before replacing the whole arm.
     
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