KPOffroad Brake Line Experience/Reviews

Hey all first post here, apologize if it's been covered but a half hour of searching and I couldn't find any specific threads mentioning the KPO brake lines, just links to other product offerings from them.

Background...I just picked up a 2005 Limited DC with 190k miles...a bit of beater that needs some love and I'm starting with brakes. Front passenger side caliper two pistons are seized, rotors are shot, pads are ok. Previous owner replaced master cylinder with Advanced Auto Parts brand. Rear shoes are cracked, adjusters and hardware are ragged and no E brake cable. Starting with the front end to get the truck on the road again. Pedal currently goes to the floor before brakes really engage to stop you.

Got a deal from RockAuto on the Power Stop z36 front brake kit. Current $50 rebate and no core charges will be about $310 for calipers, rotors, pads. For reference my local Autozone wanted $240 after taxes for just rotors. Figured I should look at doing the brake lines while I'm at it. Couldn't find a place that had the Goodridge kit in stock and was looking at 2-3 weeks (maybe more) to get them delivered. Ended up ordering the Stoptech SS braided lines from Amazon, but then realized they do not replace the hardline from the calipers just the second flexible hose. Link to diagram and Part# I found below.

https://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/u...wertrain-chassis/4708_brake-tube-clamp#47313A

Assembly# in diagram 47131A and Part#90080-94073.



Also I've been finding mixed opinions on Stoptech quality. Then last night I stumbled across this from KPO:

https://kpoffroad.com/product/toyota-brake-lines

I text the support number on the webpage and they quickly responded and confirmed the front brake kit for $75 would eliminate the hardline from the caliper. This isn't needed, but seems to simplify install and cleaner aesthetics. Looking at my front caliper hard lines they could use a refresh (like the rest of the truck lol)

My question is has anyone ever used or has any experience with the KPO brake lines?
Anyone ever used or have experience buying from KPO at all?

I tried calling the number and left a message after their initial response but haven't heard back since. Thought I'd throw it on the forum to see what others have to say.

Thank you all in advance!

 

There's currently a recall on the Powerstops, so stay away from those. Also, I would stay away from scAmazon and fleabay. Way too many counterfeit parts and no liability held by the seller.

With that said, I think @des2mtn posted up a link awhile back about some hoses that fit the taco to eliminate the hard lines. I had a hard line crack so I just replaced those and put the stoptechs in(this was in May right before the recall).

In reality, just replacing drums/shoes, pads/rotors, getting the e-brake sorted, and making sure the rears are properly adjusted should fix all your woes. Also make sure your rears are adjusted properly, then double check that the rears are adjusted properly. I'm reiterating that point for a reason. It's vital to the operation of the brakes and having a good pedal feel.

 

Thank you for the info!

Looks like the Stoptech will be getting dropped off to the UPS store for return in a few hours. KPO support just responded to my text messages after my post went up. Said if factory lines will work then theirs will work as well and if I ordered today he could have them shipped tomorrow. Found a 10% discount on a forum so just got the front and rear brake line set for $114. Will follow up as soon as I have them in hand and again when they're on the truck.

Actually I'm glad you mentioned that about the rear drums. I've been scouring here and tundrasolutions and people seem to have a lot of issues with the adjustment and keeping the brake pedal stiff. Haven't dealt with drum brakes in a long time, so I think I'll take it to my local service center to do the rear. Found a few Toyota dealerships are doing a Halloween sale with 25% off and free shipping. Might have to pull the trigger on some OEM drums, shoes and adjusters then cheap out on the general hardware and emergency brake cable (finding and/or piecing the cable together on Toyota part's site has proved frustrating). RA has the e brake cable assembly for $80 think it's a Dorman product.

 

The alternative that bmf4069 alluded to is StopTech part # 950.44014. I found a set for about $50 shipped and then replaced the banjo bolts and washers with these:

$7 X AUTOHAUX M10x1.0mm Metric Thread Banjo Bolts Brake Fitting Adapter with 2pcs M10 Washers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YJYF59
They fit well and eliminate both hard a soft lines. Got them for my upgrade to the 14WA calipers because, why not.

Oh and unless I'm mistaken the recall was for Powerstop brake lines, not StopTech.

 

That's awesome thank you Mustanley!

I tried keeping up with the 14WA and big brake upgrade threads last week, but seemed like I'd get in over my head. Especially when guys were debating how much to machine off the ears and getting into swapping out the MC for the bigger Sequoia one...can't remember if anything had to be done with the LSPV for the big brake kit or if I'm conflating that with going to the manual valve or relocating it for a big lift. Figured I'd give this PowerStop kit with the 13WL calipers a go first and get it back on the road now. Crossing my fingers they work out for now and can always look at the big brakes later on down the line.

Hoping these KPO lines workout and are quality...can't complain getting the front and rear for $114.

Once the brakes are done the next big order of business is the oil pan gasket.

 

Your local service center likely won't be able to do better. Start here with this sticky: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

The RA p-brake assembly kit is equivalent to OEM.

Only use OEM adjusters in rear, and note they've already discontinued them for the earlier years (00-02, I think), so expect they'll also discontinue our later year 1st gens also. That said, they're easy to repack if not damaged or crusty.

I wasn't aware of the hard line slimination, I'd prefer to do that front and rear. I've noticed something's been rubbing my front left line near the caliper.

 

@shifty thank you for the info. Going to read after this next conference call lmao

 

If you really want a good read to get caught up on your new ride: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Community-generated thread there with about 5-10 years worth of cherrypicked knowledge assembled. Should destroy any learning curve tied related. Assuming you didn't already find it, of course...

Welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks for the welcome!

Found it...read frame and transmission parts of it...found 1st gen Tundra within 80 miles for an ok price...frame was good, one spot with flaking under the bed by tire, smacked the hell out of it with ball peen and it held...negotiated price down and pulled the trigger on the truck knowing it needed love.

Did not think much of the "minor" oil leak at the front of the pan at the time as I could tell it needed valve cover gaskets (no big deal, just a boys night in the garage with a case of beer) and maybe the oil filter housing/oil cooler could be leaking. Besides all the great engines get an oil leak or two. Replaced that gasket and got it all cleaned up to find, it is indeed the oil pan. Again didn't think it was that big of a deal...I've done it on a Honda Pilot V6, it's a Yota after all, can't be that bad...then YouTube crushed my dreams lol.

Also that post was super help to get bulb sizes for climate control cluster swap to leds and then some new knobs with a better backlight cutout from Amazon for a facelift.

 

Man, that's really unusual for the oil pan to leak, unless someone's been in it. You sure it's not cam seals, running down the front of the block?

 

Dude I will definitely double check. Don't get me wrong I love this truck so far...but it was owned by a chain smoking carpenter where it was rode hard and put up wet so some aspects of it aren't pretty. The problem around here (Louisville, KY surrounding area) is these trucks (any pickup for that matter) go for a premium. So I took a chance on it since it was "cheap" and it's a crew cab limited that ran with proof of a shop doing the TB/WP just under 20k ago.

My first order of business was pulling every trim piece and the seats out to deep clean the interior and get rid of the old man smoker smell. Now I'm waiting on parts to start arriving.

Will try to find time this weekend to get under the truck with some degreaser and get everything cleaned up to better track down this leak (probably should start with valve cover gaskets honestly).

It's rugby playoff season so my weekends have been busy and chewed up, but when that's over should have more time to tinker.

 

We have a bunch of KY members. I'll tag a couple of the ones more active like @NickB_01TRD @kentuckyMarksman @Tundra2

From what I've seen, there are a ton of trucks at junkyards to nab parts from, and y'alls FB Marketplace seems to have a fair amount of parts trucks. I say this because, even using an ozone generator, it's hard to get the smell of smoke out of an interior. It'll get it out of the plastics but not out of the seat foams. You may be better off finding good donor seats out of another Tundra or Sequoia.

Anyway, holler. We're here and we love spending other people's money.

Ahem, I mean, we love seeing truck resurrections!

 

Yup, you are correct. No idea why I thought it was stoptech.

 

I'm only 45 minutes from Louisville and @kentuckyMarksman is in Louisville and has done a bunch of work to his double cab recently, hopefully he'll chime in soon.

 

Correct, on all counts.

Just saw this thread. I don't have any experience with the KPO, I put the GoodRidge lines on my truck. I certainly am a fan of stainless brake lines, made a huge difference on my last truck. On this truck, it's hard to tell because I did so much work all at once, but they work well (but the brakes were really sucky when I bought it).

And I agree, check your valve covers for a leak first.

Since you have a Double Cab like me, and since the previous owner of your truck replaced the master cylinder, there are a few more things I'd check. On my truck, my master cylinder also needed replacing. I discovered that the rear seal of the rear part of the master cylinder (it's a 2 part master cylinder on my truck) had failed and had leaked a ton of fluid into the brake booster. That rear portion of the master cylinder is only available from the dealer (part stores don't have it) and it's only sold when you buy it with a new front portion of the master cylinder and brake booster. I'm assuming that your truck only had the front portion of the master cylinder replaced. I would check to see if your brake booster has a bunch of fluid in it. It's easy to check, pull the vacuum line and stick something down in the booster and hope it comes out dry.

I bought my truck because the body was rust free, and the frame was in decent shape (for KY anyway). My frame wasn't pristine, but I put quite a bit of work cleaning it up and taking care of the issues. Mainly in the front near the suspension.

Anyway, I bring up my frame because I wanted to talk about brake lines. I found that both brake lines running to the rear were very corroded directly under the driver seat. 1 actually burst on me while braking. Point being, check all of your lines.

And my rear brakes were not properly adjusted either, parking brake was way out of wack. Just something to consider. Having the parking brake setup right is key to getting your rear brakes adjusted correctly.

Not entirely sure if you've bought your new calipers or not yet. I bought my calipers at NAPA, they had the 13WL markings, and had a nice protective powder coating on them.

 

Thanks Shifty...lol I'm actually talking to a guy in Cincinnati getting trying to make a deal on some interior trim pieces, the center console body and the plastic trim below glovebox door. My center console lid is broken and won't latch closed. The latch itself is good to go, but the lip on the center console body is ripped off so the latch has nothing to catch. Toying with the idea of super gluing some small magnets to the console and latch to rig my own solution or just buying this pristine console and being done with it.

Everyone seems to need the same things from a DC Limited. Seats, sunroof motor, door panels, window regulators and window motors.

I'm all about bringing this thing back to life!

 

Great info for the brake system thank you! I'll have to take a look at my booster to make sure nothing leaked into it. I'm assuming the full MC assembly from Toyota is close to $350-500 so I'm really hoping that's not the case. Hell when we're talking money like that doing the big brake upgrade or trying to figure out how to make the bigger Sequoia MC I've seen mentioned on other brake threads work might be worthwhile...

My truck does not appear to have VSC and it does have the 13WL calipers. Yes already purchased the Power Stop Z36 kit from RA. With no core charge and a $50 mail in rebate it was hard to pass up. Calipers, rotors, and pads for about $325 delivered.

 

I think the assembly (MC + Booster) is the only way it comes, and it may actually be closer to double what you're hoping for, but if you're going to order, now is the time, while there's a 25% off sale going on through the national Toyota Parts site for many dealers around the countyr. I think it ends Sunday at midnight.

I'd just buy a replacement center console, then adapt the pieces you need, or unbolt the old and in with the "new".

 

Quite welcome! For a new booster / master cylinder from Toyota it's closer to the $900 / $1000 mark. Like Shifty said, if you need it, now is the time to buy it.

Sounds like you have the exact same brake setup I do, no VSC.

I think an issue with the Sequoia MC on the Tundras is the Sequoia's rear brakes (disc) operate at a different pressure range than ours (drum), so you'd have to figure that out. One benefit of having a double cab is the width of our rear axle is the same as the Sequoia, which would make a rear axle swap (for discs) easier, and swapping to a Sequoia MC at that time would be easier. I'm no expert on that process though.

And unfortunately, if you need a MC, you need a MC, and the Big Brake Kit (to my knowledge) doesn't involve replacing the MC.

 

Not sure how far you’re willing to travel but I have really good luck sourcing DC parts in the Columbus, Ohio area when I’m working in that area. Still spend part of the summer there and try to pickup salvage parts (the Alaska market is tough af) when I’m driving through.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I usually pass through Columbus and Dayton a few times a year either with the rugby club or whenever there's a random work or training conference up that way. May not be a bad idea to start expanding my search to that far north.

Right now I can live with the minor issues on the interior. Still working on getting some of the bigger mechanical items refreshed. Just got my z36 PowerStop kit delivered and my KP Offroad brake lines (Need to get some pictures up) so now it's just a matter of time to get them installed.

 

always good to “meet” a fellow rugby player out in the wild lol

lmk how you like the brake kit. Looking into getting one while there’s a rebate out there. I’m about to embark on a front end upgrade spree (new shocks/ struts, brakes, LBJ’s, upper control arms, sway bar links, CV’s and tie rods) and am part gathering atm.