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Komodo - My Wife's Daily Driver and High Speed Overland Rig

Discussion in '3rd Gen Builds (2014+)' started by KevinK, Sep 28, 2017.

  1. Oct 3, 2017 at 2:08 PM
    #31
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Yeah, I should put a disclaimer on these first several posts that they're from a few years ago as we were building up the truck. I'm trying to migrate our entire three-year-old build thread from another forum so people can see the install instructions I wrote, now that photobucket phucked all the photo links...

    I'm stoked to hear that. What shocks are you using with them? Any time you want to come down to AZ or southern UT or the CA desert, hit me up! We ahve trips planned about once a month somewhere in the southwest.
     
    smslavin likes this.
  2. Oct 3, 2017 at 2:12 PM
    #32
    smslavin

    smslavin On a plane...

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    King 2.5 remote resis with the compression adjuster.

    I may take you up on that.
     
    KevinK [OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:20 PM
    #33
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally Posted 3/13/16

    HAM Install

    Here's the remote head mount. The only part of the remote kit I used was the backplate, wire, and two screws.


    The screws are close together because that's the only room inside the backplate when the remote slides in. It's not meant to be mounted to anything other than a 1/4 20 tripod or the supplied bracket which didn't look stock enough, so I drilled it. The remote wire sneaks into the center console underneath the backplate through a little hole I drilled... "The first cut is the deepest"


    IMG_58471.jpg


    Remote inserted:


    IMG_58472.jpg


    side view and the reason I only used two screws - it backs onto the center console for additional support if I get ham-fisted:


    IMG_58473.jpg



    squawk!


    IMG_58474.jpg

    IMG_58475.jpg




    Oh, I'd be remiss if I didn't thank my Canadian assistants for their support too. Most certainly could not have done it without them... >:D


    IMG_58476.jpg
     
  4. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:35 PM
    #34
    SoCalDave

    SoCalDave New Member

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    Awesome build!
     
    KevinK [OP] likes this.
  5. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #35
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally posted 3/17/16

    HAM antenna install

    I actually finished the antenna install around midnight Monday night, but haven't had time to write it up. Again, this'll be the tl:dr version, and I'll do a more complete (nauseatingly so) write up and put the link to that in here.


    Google "DIY Tundra headliner removal" for some good instructions on how to drop the entire headliner. i used the first search result as a guide to do this.


    Remove the hanger hook, rear dome light, and Oh Shit handles. To get the dome light out, use something flat in between the lens and the bezel on the front side of the dome light and pry the lens free of the bezel. I could not find this instruction anywhere and probably wasted 2 hours of farting around looking on the web and dorking with the damn thing. The hanger hook has no screws, just a clip.



    IMG_ANT1.jpg


    IMG_ANT2.jpg



    Pull off the B and C pillar covers. lots of white clips and a couple of bolts. start with the bottom halves because the bottom piece covers a bolt on the top piece. in the rear I did not fully remove the lower half, I just pulled it back enough to get at the top half for removal. I ran the antenna cable down the C pillar because it's more clear of other garbage.


    IMG_ANT3.jpg



    Pull the headliner down a little bit from the weather strip and you'll see the airbag is right behind it above the full length of the window. As you pull the headliner down a little, you'll need to reach your arm back near the rear window and press down on the headliner near the clip-stands to release the liner from the clips.


    IMG_ANT4.jpg


    IMG_ANT5.jpg



    when you pull the headliner down enough to look up under it, you'll see a crossbar at roughly the B pillar. I marked it with tape so I could see it from the roof.


    IMG_ANT6.jpg


    IMG_ANT7.jpg



    I put some painter's tape down to indicate where I thought the cross bar was, and a big block of tape for two reasons - 1, I could draw all over it while I measured eleventy times, and 2, it protects the paint when you drill. I read that it keeps the edges of the hole from peeling or flaking back.


    IMG_ANT8.jpg


    pro tip:


    Sharpie the edge of two pieces of tape in order to make a straight line mark that can be easily moved as you measure and re-measure and re-measure and re-measure to get center and distance right.


    IMG_ANT9.jpg


    IMG_ANT10.jpg


    Get ready to drill. I didn't get pictures of it, but I slid a baking pan in between the headliner and the roof to catch the metal shavings (no fires please) and prevent drilling through the headliner. Here's the pan I also later used to catch solder over the carpet:


    IMG_ANT11.jpg



    I used a metal step bit, but it seems popular to use a special NMO hole-saw. I didn't have one, didn't want to buy one, and had no one to borrow one from. I spoke with a guy who's been installing mobile rigs for 20 years, and he said he uses a step bit too. I had practiced on a piece of plastic and marked the step bit with white tape so I didn't drill too far and have to buy a new truck.


    pro tip:


    Keep a small brush handy to clear the hot metal shavings from the roof before they melt through your paint, causing rust spots. Drill a little, sweep, drill a little, sweep...


    IMG_ANT12.jpg


    IMG_ANT13.jpg


    IMG_ANT14.jpg


    IMG_ANT15.jpg



    pull the baking pan out, run the end of the cable into the hole and pull it out the side of the truck.


    There are pretty good videos on how to install the NMO mount on youtube. it's basically important to silicone the o-ring, threadlock the inside threads (don't cross the streams, meaning don't get silicone on the threads, and don't get threadlock on the o-ring) and wiggle the mount a little bit as you screw on the retaining ring. it'll help to center the NMO on the whole.


    IMG_ANT16.jpg


    IMG_ANT17.jpg


    IMG_ANT18.jpg



    These pictures are looking up through the dome light hole in the headliner and from the front of the truck looking backwards. You can see my mount is about 2 inches behind the crossbar.


    IMG_ANT19.jpg


    IMG_ANT20.jpg



    Run the antenna cable down the C pillar and zip tie it to a few spots to keep it out of the way of the airbag and the seat belt functionality.


    IMG_ANT21.jpg


    IMG_ANT22.jpg



    My radio is under the passenger seat, so I ran it under the door sill also.


    IMG_ANT23.jpg



    Terminate the end of the antenna and test functionality before putting everything back together. I didn't have a third hand to take pics of the soldering so you'll have to take my word for it that it was beautiful (it wasn't, I'm a liar).


    to get the panels put back on, it was helpful to take any of the white clips that had remained in their holes and put them on the panel first so they can be pressed in using the panel as the weight bearer. That may not make much sense, but when you pull the panels off, you'll see that the white clips can either pop out of the hole in the metal, or slip out the side of the plastic panel. Put them all on the panel instead of trying to slip some at 90* to the direction of the others that you're pushing in.



    The front passenger seat belt cover was a pain in the ass. Just fiddle with it and you'll get it. I found it helped to have the seat belt height adjuster thingy at the lowest setting...


    IMG_ANT24.jpg



    All Done!


    IMG_ANT25.jpg


    IMG_ANT26.jpg


    IMG_ANT27.jpg




    Shit, maybe this isn't actually the Reader's Digest version... oh well. >:D
     
  6. Oct 5, 2017 at 4:47 PM
    #36
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    dunno how I managed to stumble upon this little gem after following someone else's DIY headliner removal instructions, but I'm saving to our build log for future reference... Probably because Toyota calls it a headlining and not a headliner? I was actually searching for how to drop the visor and this popped up

    Headliner removal instructions for 2014 + Tundras:

    Double Cab
    https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Porta...html?sisuffix=ff&locale=en&siid=1461560082678


    Crew Max
    https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Porta...html?sisuffix=ff&locale=en&siid=1461559404300
     
  7. Oct 7, 2017 at 2:22 PM
    #37
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally posted on 4/20/16

    I just did this a couple days ago on Lisa's truck...

    9 coats, or about 4.5 cans for the front and rear.

    IMG_63081.jpg IMG_63082.jpg IMG_63083.jpg IMG_63084.jpg IMG_63085.jpg IMG_63086.jpg IMG_63087.jpg IMG_63088.jpg
     
  8. Oct 7, 2017 at 2:40 PM
    #38
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally posted 4/23/16 - edited so it makes some kinda fuckin sense

    Bed Lights wired to Cargo Light

    this wasn't on my earlier list except as an invisible tangent to getting the bedrack and RTT installed which will create a miniature Black Hole in the bed of the truck since we're mounting almost flush with the bedrails.

    I was looking for the wire that goes from the cargo light switch up to the cargo light so I could tap into it. All I could find was that it's brown, or dark purple/gray or something and I'm fucking colour blind, so I got lucky and some guys stepped up and helped a brother out.

    I really hate being colour blind at times like this...

    This is a 2014 Double Cab SR5 Upgrade for future reference by anyone else looking.

    for the next poor colourblind sucker to come along, it is Wire03 in the photo that goes to the cargo light. Tap into that for +12V and use the chassis ground of your choice for the negative lead.

    Cargo WiresLabeled.png


    Bedlight1.jpg~original.jpg Bedlight2.jpg~original.jpg Bedlight4.jpg~original.jpg



    Found these at O'Reilly's for like 30 bucks. This is just the empty package, don't try to see what the lights look like inside that blister pack.

    Bedlight5.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6377.jpg~original.jpg IMG_63771.jpg~original.jpg IMG_63772.jpg~original.jpg IMG_63773.jpg~original.jpg IMG_63774.jpg~original.jpg




    Gonna go start wiring up the switches for the Tomar Offroad lightbar we pickup Monday. It had its 8 hour burn-in (yes, they turn them on for 8 hours straight in a room with minimal airflow to try and kill them) test last night. :D
     
    dcsleeper408 and Prostar 190 like this.
  9. Oct 11, 2017 at 8:56 AM
    #39
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally posted 4/24/16


    Finished (sort of, still need the actual lightbar with the control cable) installing the switches for the Tomar Offroad lightbar last night. Eventually we may go with a SPOD or something similar as we add lights and do the dual battery system, but just for the sake of getting up to Sedona and the Overland Expo with a functioning light, we went with some cheapies from O'Reillys auto down the street.


    Yes, one light bar uses 5 switches if you run the white/amber, spot/flood combo like we are. One thing that's pretty bad ass about these TRX series is that you don't need any relays or anything, the control switches don't carry the lighting voltage, they're just triggers. Tomar built all the relays and logic for the light into the bar itself, and the electronics are all potted and rated to like 100' depth of water in case you want to turn your truck into a submarine. In fact the control cable provides it's own power, so wherever you want to mount your switches, just run the control cable there and no need to find voltage or ground nearby - it's all included in the 6 conductor control cable.


    Basically you run power and ground directly to the battery, and then connect your switches to the control wire wherever you want. We went with the sunglass holder because it's easy and ultimately the SPOD or something will go there...


    Switches2.jpg~original.jpg Switches2a.jpg~original.jpg Switches3.jpg~original.jpg Switches4.jpg~original.jpg Switches5.jpg~original.jpg
     
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  10. Oct 13, 2017 at 11:32 AM
    #40
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally posted 4/26/16

    Got the bedrack that Brandon at AVID fabbed for us installed and the James Baroud Grand Raid XXL from OK4WD installed today! It's taken me a while to post this up because it was the day before we left for Tundras to Sedona, and we also had the Tomar lightbar to install before we could leave. It's been a busy couple of weeks - holy shit.

    I still need to do my full review and install write up, but this thing kicks twelve kinds of ass! We showed up in Sedona (Stoneman Lake) at 3 am Wednesday night and it was snowing. From the time the truck wheels stopped rolling to the time that Lisa, the two dogs and I were inside the tent under the covers with heads on pillows, was about three and a half minutes...

    I get out, pull 4 latches and the tent pops open, grab one dog and then the other from inside the truck and put them in the tent, hang the ladder for Lisa to climb in, turn off the truck lights and climb in myself. Zipper closed and DONE.

    IMG_6429.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6437.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6442.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6459.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6465.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6466.jpg~original.jpg IMG_6467.jpg~original.jpg
     
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  11. Oct 15, 2017 at 11:24 AM
    #41
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Also on 4/26/16

    almost forgot about the ARB awning and room!

    Brandon at AVID also took this ridiculous idea I had and made it come to life...

    We wanted a way to get in and out of the RTT so we could pee in the middle of the night without having to put clothes on and run off into the woods when it's 17 degrees out. The perfect solution is an attached room next to the RTT like many of the canvas fold out RTTs do when you add an annex. Well the hardshell RTT style doesn't lend itself to attaching heavy awnings and rooms directly to the tent, so I had to get creative.

    I'll write up more about the process later, but the basic jist of it is that we added an ARB awning and awning room that can be attached to the side of the truck in the bed stake holes. It's all hinged and shit and really cool and Brandon kicks ass at taking an idea to the next level. We can detach it from the truck and drive away, then when we get back to camp, lift the posts back into the stake holes. There's a zippered doorway on the vehicle-side of the awning room, so we can put the RTT ladder through that opening and now we have a mud room/bathroom/dog kennel/changing room/whatever space with direct access to the RTT...

    awning1.jpg awning2.jpg awning3.jpg awning4.jpg awning5.jpg awning6.jpg awning7.jpg
     
    SeanO86, monaco730, aperezsh and 7 others like this.
  12. Oct 18, 2017 at 4:06 AM
    #42
    Stevenboise

    Stevenboise New Member

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    Old Man Emu suspension. Brute Force Fab front bumper, rear dual high clearance rear bumper, sliders and headache rack.
    Great looking rig and camping set up.....but I would like to hear more about what you used for that dog run (LOL)! Are those just cargo straps or some similar material? Do you just tie it off on one end to adjust its length?
     
    KevinK [OP] likes this.
  13. Oct 18, 2017 at 4:50 AM
    #43
    TRON

    TRON is Live on the Grid.

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    IG: st3f3ns OB#1235
    Yay @KevinK is on TCOM! :thumbsup: Love the build man, excited for some wheeling this weekend
     
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  14. Oct 19, 2017 at 10:08 AM
    #44
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Yup! We use three ratchet straps. one shorty to go around a tree, and then one for each dog to go from the tree to the stake holes in the bed side. A D-ring or something similar makes it easy to clip them on and off the line, and also let's them move more freely. When we don't have a tree to tie off too, I use a tent stake on the end of each line.

    clipped to ground.jpg

    When we're in more of the overlanding mode (different camp spot every night) we don't bother setting up the whole thing, and just clip them to the bumper or a wheel with a couple of huge D-rings. We let them run off-leash a bit, but they still have a tendency to wander, so it's more comfortable to clip them on sometimes.

    clipped to bumper.jpg
     
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  15. Oct 19, 2017 at 11:38 AM
    #45
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally Posted 5/10/16


    Here is my review and DIY installation for the TOMAR TRX Series 50" Lightbar in combination white/amber spot/flood.

    This specific light is model TRX-50W-AC and is the 'standard' combo bar in the TRX line, worth about 27,000 lumens (careful how you compare lightbars - these don't use reflectors, so all of those lumens fire forward unlike most manufacturers. I'd say this compares in brightness to a 40 or 50,000 lumen bar). Since the whole light bar is modular, you can order it in any combination pattern you want. You could put white spots in the middle zone and white floods on the outer zone, or amber floods in the middle and white spots on the outer zone, or combo modules all over, or whatever suits your fancy.

    Also, since the modules are like 40 bucks each, you can change them later if your first idea was stupid. It's crazy how custom you can make the bar - but we chose to go with their 'standard combo bar' because it's pretty fvcking awesome as is.

    This image totally stolen from Tomar's website to show you what I mean about modular:

    TRX50_install01.jpg


    Our goal was three-fold:

    1. Fit in the garage with room for more lift and more tire. We had 6 inches to work with above the truck roof
    2. No wind noise because that shit's irritating and this is a daily driver
    3. No glare on the windshield, dash or hood because a light that shines in your eyes is useless


    All three goals accomplished:

    1. There are still 2 1/2 inches to spare which means an inch for lift and an inch for tires
    2. This lightbar is virtually silent even at 100 mph with the windows down (tested in Mexico of course on the way back to Phoenix from Sedona)
    3. The light shines on the road where it belongs, not on the truck and not in your eyes

    TRX50_install02.jpg

    How do you make a roof mounted lightbar silent? Do some homework. I studied the aerodynamics of pickup trucks back in high school twenty-some years ago when we built an electric race truck out of an ’89 Chevy Silverado. Luckily CFD has come a long way in recent years, so I won’t bore you with the details (you can google image search pickup truck aerodynamics), but the top of the windshield has the highest pressure and windspeed (making it the worst place to put a lightbar). Over the B-pillar, that pressure and speed reduce both vertically and laterally, and start a slight thickening in the boundary layer (this is good).

    TRX50_install03.jpg

    I considered adding a vortex generator to the leading edge of the roof if we needed to create separation early in order to get the lightbar into a turbulent flow, but it’s not needed with this bar in this location. The trick to this is the shape of the cooling fins on the bar itself which Tomar has designed to reduce whistling in a laminar flow.

    TRX50_install04.jpg


    I also triple isolated the lightbar from the truck using rubber washers and stoppers so the bar and mounting bolts don’t touch any metal of the truck roof. I’m not sure how much this impacted the overall sound transfer to the cab because even with the windows down on the freeway, you can’t tell it’s up there.

    TRX50_install05.jpg


    I’m not entirely sure who started the trend of mounting lightbars low over the windshield, but that’s pretty much the WORST POSSIBLE LOCATION - for both noise and glare reasons.

    Oh, I have an idea….

    Trophy Trucks

    TRX50_install06.jpg

    Yeah, trophy trucks are bad ass, but two important factors are missing from a trophy truck that apply to us in our brodozers and mall cruisers.

    1. They have no windshield to gather dust and reflect light back into their eyes
    2. They give zero fucks about noise – have you heard them run?

    Of course everyone with their lightbar installed low over the windshield is forgiven for doing so because no one has really said anything different, and we all want our shit to look like a race truck, right? And manufacturers haven’t done anything other than make what’s popular, for us to throw money at. I won’t mention names, but you can quickly find a multitude of mounting brackets for lightbars, and they all have the same shape – a big bow to hang that light right down close over the windshield – in the perfectly wrong place.


    Functionality of the TRX Lightbar

    This bar is billed as the basic dual color combo light, but is way more than basic. First of all, it requires five on/off switches for full functionality. Since the lightbar gets powered directly off the battery with a positive and negative lead, the control wires (in a separate third cable) don’t carry any of the high draw voltage (no relays needed), just a low voltage trigger signal to tell the bar what pattern to throw. All of the relays or logic boards or whatever are built inside the bar. Because of this you can use basically any kind of on/off disconnect you want. I just grabbed some cheapies from Autozone for a few bucks each to get it working until we go for the dual battery system and SPOD or similar switching system.

    TRX50_install07.jpg

    TRX50_install08.jpg

    Different combinations of the five switches on or off result in different light patterns and intensities. I’ll see if I can actually list all the modes…
    1. All Amber Dim
    2. All Amber Bright
    3. All White Dim
    4. All White Bright
    5. White Driving Light (2 modules on one end lit) Dim
    6. White Driving Light (2 modules on one end lit) Bright
    7. Amber on 8 modules and White Driving on 2 modules Dim
    8. Amber on 8 modules and White Driving on 2 modules Bright
    9. White SOS flashing pattern Dim
    10. White SOS flashing pattern Bright

    Yeah, so the basic dual color bar has 10 functions – that’s pretty awesome. And bright. Holy crap this bar is bright. I didn’t get a chance to do any real side by side comparison at night while we were in Sedona with 28 other Tundras (no clue how that didn’t happen), but we definitely don’t need more light like I originally thought we would. A few 75 mph blasts up and down a dirt road (closed course, of course) and I could easily have added 40 mph without overdriving the visibility – probably another 75 mph faster if the truck were capable.

    So far I’ve found my favorite pattern to drive with is the Amber Flood/ 2 Driving Spots because it gives a little contrast to the surroundings that is always missing with a solid white. This is just the personal preference of a semi-colorblind guy who wore yellow prescription eyeglasses for a couple years.

    TRX50_install09.jpg

    TRX50_install10.jpg

    TRX50_install11.jpg

    TRX50_install12.jpg


    Installation

    I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves as much as possible because I’m ridiculously wordy already.

    Install was straight forward. The power leads go straight to the battery, and the control cable with 6 wires in it goes to wherever you want the switches. No need to locate them near a ground or a +12V source – it’s all contained inside the control cable.

    As I said, I was very particular about the placement of the bar, so I measured a bunch of times to get the right distance behind the windshield and right height. I also wanted it to be quiet, so I triple isolated the bar from the truck with rubber washers and stoppers. You can see the sandwich I came up with in the upper right corner of this spec sheet Tomar provided.

    TRX50_install13.jpg

    Then measuring the truck. I wanted to ensure we didn’t shine any light on the hood so used a tape measure to create a sight line.

    TRX50_install14.jpg

    TRX50_install15.jpg

    Check the height. The bracket it comes with isn’t long enough to reach the roof because of the curvature of the roof in the middle. If you set the lightbar on the roof, the bracket legs dangle about a quarter or half an inch. I added 1” thick rubber stoppers under the bracket to isolate and take up that slack – It was too high. I wanted a quarter inch or so between the roof and bottom of light. These are 1” thick stoppers so I cut one down to ¾”, and then further down to a half inch thick. I had to make a prison shank out of two rolls of electrical tape and a utility knife blade to make sure I made 4 even little rubber pucks. This picture has the too-long stoppers on and ultimately it’s mounted at half that height.

    TRX50_install16.jpg

    TRX50_install17.jpg

    I swear I’m just measuring where to drill and not drawing boobies…
    TRX50_install18.jpg
    TRX50_install19.jpg

    TRX50_install20.jpg


    I used a little RTV gasket maker since the roof will see very high heat here in AZ.

    TRX50_install21.jpg

    I had planned to use waterproof cable glands like is used in house construction, but @Wikid had told me about these deck seals, and when I was at Sierra Expeditions, Will had one that does multiple cables. Sold. It’s a thing of beauty and is meant for use on boat bulkheads, decks and hulls.

    TRX50_install22.jpg

    TRX50_install23.jpg

    TRX50_install24.jpg

    TRX50_install25.jpg
    TRX50_install26.jpg


    That’s basically where I stopped taking pictures because I had been up for two days getting this done and putting the James Baroud RTT on the rack AVID fabbed for us.

    The rest of it is just running the power cables down the A pillar behind the airbag and down to the firewall where there is a pass through to run the wires up to the battery. I added a 45 amp fusible link to the +12V line per the instructions for this size bar, and connect + and – direct to the battery.

    Ran the control cable to the sunglass holder and put the headliner back up. Wired in the switches and BAM! LIIIIIIIGHT!!!

    TRX50_install27.jpg

    Yep, it’s waterproof

    TRX50_install28.jpg
    TRX50_install29.jpg
     
    aperezsh and Sunnier like this.
  16. Oct 19, 2017 at 11:50 AM
    #46
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Video of the light output - it's pretty damn long. like most of my write ups and reviews, it's nauseatingly detailed. :rofl:

    https://youtu.be/cHTe3IAJa3w
     
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  17. Nov 21, 2017 at 9:02 AM
    #47
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    ORIGINAL POST 5/8/16


    Toytec BOSS Coilover install and swaybar removal

    I haven't written jack squat about this yet, but will soon [that's a lie - I never did write any more about the install]. We had the Bilstein 5100s already, so this lift that usually adds about 3 inches, added about an inch, but improved the ride big time.

    If you drive in the dirt, delete your sway bar. It makes such a huge difference and lets the independent suspension actually be independent - weird concept.

    Toytec Install 01.jpg Toytec Install 02.jpg
     
    Sunnier likes this.
  18. Nov 21, 2017 at 9:20 AM
    #48
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    ORIGINAL POST 5/15/17

    Built a leveling kit for the RTT today.

    One of the issues with RTT camping is you have to find a level spot for the truck or sleep at an angle all night. Yes I know the same is true for ground tents, but this little set means we can stop in a greater variety of places.

    I started with a 12' long piece of 2x8 and cut into six pieces. 2 at 2.5', 2 at 2' and 2 at 1.5'. Then I cut the ends at a 45* angle. They can be stacked in a variety of ways to get the right amount of lift for each tire, up to 4.5" for two tires.

    I also drilled 4 holes in them so we can drive tent stakes through a stack in order to keep them relatively stationary while driving up them.

    I marked one stack with X's at one end and one stack with O's because try as I might, I just couldn't be bothered to make a drill template. they're close, but when we roll up to camp at 3am, I don't want to be dicking around with trying to find the right hole.


    RTT_level-01.jpg

    RTT_level-02.jpg

    RTT_level-03.jpg

    RTT_level-04.jpg

    RTT_level-05.jpg

    RTT_level-06.jpg

    RTT_level-07.jpg

    RTT_level-08.jpg

    RTT_level-09.jpg

    Only one sawzall incident to report

    RTT_level-10.jpg

    I blame Canada

    RTT_level-11.jpg



    UPDATE: We've since given up on these. Our space is a little too limited, and we can usually find rocks to put under a tire, or use 2wd traction control off to dig the rear end into soft dirt and make the truck level.

    They seemed like a good idea at the time, and we did use them for like 3-4 trips.
     
  19. Nov 21, 2017 at 10:26 AM
    #49
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    ORIGINAL POST 8/19/16


    TL;DR – 37s are awesome to wheel with and won’t rub


    First of all, we did not plan on running 37s on a regular basis. We really had our hearts set on some Rock Warriors with 35s - the same thing everybody runs.

    Part of the reason is they seem to do just about everything, and when you're overlanding with a group of people that have all the same wheel and tire size, it makes flats less of an issue if you get more than two on one trip; just borrow one from somebody in your group. What are the odds that 6 trucks will have two flats in one trip? Possible, but not likely.

    So we started looking for RWs as the tread on the 33s slowly started to fade. And then we did 150 miles of offroading in Anza Borrego on 20" rims with nearly bald 33s.

    37s_Install-01.jpg

    That was a damn fun trip, but we knew we needed tires before our next outing. Jason Demello had made an offer to bring a set of 37s that he had in his shop, up to Tundras to Sedona for a killer price. I asked if he still had them and if we could get that price if we drove to Riverside to get them - "Sure, come on out."

    So then our new plan was to grab these 37s for cheap, and run them on offroad trips until we could find RWs and 35s for a price we like - now that the 37s are on, we will not be looking for RWs and 35s anymore. These Dirty Sevens are here to stay!


    37s are the new 35s - everyone will be running them sooner than later


    Lookin' like a Taco from the side

    37s_Install-02.jpg


    Until someone stands next to it

    37s_Install-03.jpg



    This Setup

    Level 8 Guardian wheels in 18x9 +25 offset

    [​IMG]

    Falken Wildpeak AT01 in 37x13.5 - yes, these are 13.5" wide, not 12.5, and they fit. offset is your friend here.

    37s_Install-04.jpg




    We had a thousand questions for Jason about fitment:

    1. Can we use stock UCAs? - Yep
    2. Will these clear the coilovers with this backspacing? - Yep
    3. Can we keep the stock bumper? - Yep, with a little trimming
    4. Will they fit with only 2" of front lift? - Yep
    5. Will they fit with only 1" of rear lift? – Yep, just a little plastic work

    He said we basically just needed to do a pretty aggressive body mount chop (BMC), push some of the plastic out of the way in the rear, and trim the front bumper to make these fit.

    I should note that we had already taken off the front away bar, but anyone considering 37s for offroad use has probably already done that. If not, you need to. Even if you're not gonna run 37s, toss that sway bar away. It performs a hundred times better offroad and isn't as scary as you might think onroad.

    Everything looked ok in my mind’s eye and on paper, so we rented a trailer and drove to Riverside one morning to pick them up, turned around, and drove home in time to return the trailer before u-haul closed. About a 13 hour round trip including our visit at Demello's shop. Jason was super cool and the shop was crazy busy, which was good to see.


    Damn, these are HUGE. Pictures do zero justice for how much bigger a 37x13.5 is compared to basically a 33x11

    37s_Install-06.jpg


    Nut cuttin’ time.

    I bought a die grinder and some cutting wheels and got down to business in the front. I had told Jason that I have absolutely zero metal working skills – can’t cut metal, can’t weld, don’t own a torch or even a fkn sledge hammer for that matter. I can swap a transmission in the parking lot. I can put the head from one engine onto the block of another and get them to work together. I can adjust cams and valves and swap injectors and tune ECUs and replace coilovers by myself and all manner of other shit that DOES NOT INVOLVE CUTTING METAL.

    Until now.

    37s_Install-07.jpg


    First I drew in sharpie where I wanted to cut, and then traced it with the cutter

    37s_Install-08.jpg


    It took me forever. I know people have said this can be done in like an hour, and that’s probably true, but it took me two days to do the entire thing because I’m a chickenshit. I would measure, cut, put the wheels back on, drive someplace to articulate the suspension, mark it, take pictures, drive home, take the wheels off, measure, draw, cut, rinse repeat like 4 times… I was all concerned that I was going to take off more than I needed or totally fck something up. And it was like 120 degrees here in Arizona and I was doing this on the ground in my garage that doesn’t exactly have awesome airflow, so there were many beer breaks. In fact I’m gonna go to the fridge and get one right now while I’m writing this.


    First I was all surgical with my cuts, being super careful

    37s_Install-09.jpg


    I also trimmed the front bumper at this time, but didn't take any decent pics somehow. There's sort of a natural line on the underside of the bumper you can kind of follow to remove about 1-2" of metal. I loosened the two bolts that attach the bumper to the metal support behind it, then did my cut, and took the bolts off to allow the little strip of metal to come off.

    At this point there are two metal brackets protruding into the space that the tire needs to occupy, so I hammered them upward out of the way. None of the bumper trimming is noticeable from outside the truck.



    I definitely still had some rubbing

    So I got medieval on its ass

    37s_Install-10.jpg

    There was a little bit of rub on the pinch weld at full lock and full articulation

    37s_Install-11.jpg


    Then I went barbaric on it

    From this
    37s_Install-12.jpg

    To this, which is the current state
    37s_Install-13.jpg


    I did all this trimming while the skid plate was off (I had recently done our alignment and didn't put it back on yet). I put the skid plate back on loosely and saw where it needed to be trimmed too. Dropped it back the ground and took that corner off too. It's simple when you see it.


    There is absolutely zero rub anywhere during street driving whether forward or reverse or full lock or whatever.

    There is a tiny bit of rub in the front when you are loaded with 1000 lbs of gear, cocking one wheel in the air, trying to climb a wall where the rears are basically pushing the lonely front wheel (turned at full lock) head-on into a rock face. I just haven’t nipped that little piece off yet. It is right near the top of the notch I put in the pinch weld. I may hack it off of there this weekend if I’m not too lazy. It looks like a quarter inch higher in my notch will solve it. I know this because I sprayed some black paint on all the exposed metal until I weld a plate back in. The tip of that notch edge is missing a little paint.

    There is also a little bit of rub in the rear on the plastic fender liner when kicking it into full three-wheel motion. I may just leave it instead of investing a bunch of energy into moving some plastic that the tire is perfectly capable of moving when it needs to, without harm to the tire.

    All of this comes with the caveat that during three days of some pretty serious wheeling in Big Bear, including John Bull trail, only one time did anyone in the group say “oh, there actually is some rubbing on those 37s” and that was the rear rubbing on the little plastic nub near the front of the wheel well while the opposite front wheel was about 7 feet higher up the boulder than that rear. Wish I had pictures of this one, but it was the first spot we winched Alex up on John Bull. It took probably 20 minutes to get him up that obstacle. Here is his pic.

    37s_Install-14.jpg
    37s_Install-15.jpg
    37s_Install-16.jpg
    37s_Install-17.jpg
    37s_Install-18.jpg


    Alex hit this rock

    37s_Install-19.jpg

    We drove around it

    37s_Install-20.jpg



    and here is a playlist of all the videos I shot in Big Bear

    https://youtu.be/FvxNjXKCluM?list=PLjF5T--ma36nwz4qdAJivEUUj3xtnTOJ6



    Rear tuck on 33s with 1” block and opposite rear in the air

    37s_Install-22.jpg


    Rear tuck on 37s with 1” block and opposite rear in the air

    37s_Install-23.jpg



    This was on our first shakedown run (prior to the Big Bear photos and videos above) where I was able to find a spot in the wild to articulate like we would on a trail. I took the totally wrong line on purpose to see how much I could force the suspension to flex. If you listen closely, you can hear a little rub from the rear (those plastic nubs again. I may actually nip those off now that I think about it). The metal clanging noise is our D-ring flopping around on the tow loop up front.

    You can hear some rub in the rear at around 24 second mark - I'm definitely gonna cut that off now that I hear it from the outside. That's annoying.

    https://youtu.be/S2MNrilOyuw
     
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  20. Nov 21, 2017 at 10:27 AM
    #50
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    ORIGINAL POST 8/19/16


    I should explain what I think are a few key contributors to running the 37s in our particular case.

    1. No crazy offset. These rims are only +25 offset. A lower positive, or negative offset pushes the rim outward and causes it do draw a wider arc through its turn radius. That wider arc invariably passes through a lot of metal. The front bumper will require more trimming, and the fender and body mount will have to be cut further back. I don't think there's room on the body mount to chop it more aggressively than I did. You may also run into interference at the top of fender. Ours tucks just slightly at the top because our wheel is sucked in and not poking out a bunch.

    2. We have spacers on our front bump stops that Toytec includes with their BOSS coilovers. This is to limit the up travel a little bit which now prevents us from rubbing the top of the wheel well.

    3. No sway bar. It's useless offroad anyway, just get rid of it. I'm sure it would rub if it were on.

    4. Stock UCAs. I think they might actually be an advantage in this case. We are only lifted about 2". I'd have to have aftermarket UCAs in my hand to see the difference, but the stocks are working fine for now.

    5. We're not lifted a bunch. We want to keep our center of gravity low, park in the garage, and get in and out of the truck easily.


    It's easy to clear 37s with a tall bracket lift, but that didn't suit our purpose. We want low, lean and mean. Mission accomplished!
     
  21. Nov 26, 2017 at 10:49 AM
    #51
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor God is technically an alien

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    Kings F&R, no sway bars
    thanks for all the info, I have kings front and rear and of course ditched the front sway bar. Do you have any plans on upgrading leaf springs? I plan on keeping the kings, get tc uca's and revalve/tune all the shocks for high speed offroading then replace the leafs probably deaver l37's, add some bumpstops and go from there, I really want 3.0's and duals shocks upfront but wanted to see how I can make my current setup work before spending more money, you've got a badass truck there sir!
     
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  22. Nov 26, 2017 at 3:27 PM
    #52
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Thanks man! I’ll tell Lisa ;)

    Yeah we plan to probably go with the Icon RXT rear springs and extended bypasses plus bumps. The rear has been pretty neglected, but has actually done an amazing job considering the springs and bumps are stock.

    Those Deavers should work awesome for you. How much weight do you typically carry off road? You can send them your unloaded and loaded weights and they’ll tell you exactly what to get, or make you a custom pack.
     
  23. Nov 26, 2017 at 3:46 PM
    #53
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor God is technically an alien

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    yea I keep hearing to have more travel in the rear if you like fast offroading, I'm in CA so I can make a road trip to deavers and get their input, I'm usually empty in my rear, thanks man!
     
  24. Jan 12, 2018 at 2:35 PM
    #54
    edwin729

    edwin729 Tundra Life

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    Did you find it easier to paint hood bulge installed instead of removing?
     
  25. Jan 12, 2018 at 2:59 PM
    #55
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Yeah, I didn't want to risk snapping one of the stupid little tabs, so I just taped it off and sprayed it. Since it's just dip, it peeled off real easy.
     
  26. Jan 12, 2018 at 4:03 PM
    #56
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally installed 11/19/2016

    Bed slide by Jotto Cargo Slide (aka, my favorite mod ever)

    We desperately needed a storage solution for the bed after we put the RTT on the back. Our first several trips we packed a fuckin rake with us so we could catch the handles of boxes and pull them out from under the tent rack. What a pain in the ass.

    You can see the red rake handle here

    IMG_7201.jpg

    Saw some pretty cool ideas and decided to take action

    IMG_8404.jpg


    Did a ton of research and found that Jotto makes the lightest bed slide available. We didn't need anything with a super high capacity because it just needs to hold our camping gear and a spare tire underneath the tent rack. Their light duty is good for 800lb capacity and weighs 120 lbs. For reference a BedSlide with the 1000lb capacity weighs over 200 lbs (someone also told me it actually weighs 250??).

    Weight is a major consideration in our build because we like to do stupid shit off road, and the lighter Komodo stays, the more stupid shit we can do. So, I re-engineered the manufacturer's mounting solution and lost 20 lbs of steel that wasn't needed. Another benefit of losing that steel is we gained 1.5" of storage height because the slide is mounted an inch and a half lower to the bed of the truck. Our low profile rack leaves us with very little room to pack (good in the long run, because the more room I have for stuff, the more shit I'm gonna end up bringing and not need).

    IMG_8980.jpg


    So, now we have a bed slide that weighs 100 lbs and can carry all our crap.

    IMG_9019.jpg
    IMG_9020.jpg

    IMG_9182.jpg
    IMG_9761.jpg
    IMG_7212.jpg

    We ran that slide for a year before our particular style of use took it's toll. Since the rails are aluminum, they have a tendency to gall on the bearings when the slide is closed and the truck is vibrating a lot. Eventually it wears little divots into the drawer sides and makes it hard to dislodge the slide from the closed position because the slide is sitting down in all the little spots.

    IMG_6477.jpg


    I contacted Jotto to see if I could get it warrantied, and they declined, citing a potential overload situation. I explained that it was under our RTT and there was no way I could get 800 lbs onto it, but that I also understood there was no way for me to prove it and that I also thought it looked like it had been overloaded. I asked them if I could purchase just two new drawer sides so I could rebuild the slide and they said they'd get back to me in a couple days.

    Well, almost a week passed and I got a call from FedEx stating they had a delivery for me. I asked what it was and they said it was a pallet with a bed slide on it. I thought "oh shit. I must've drunk ordered a new one when I was trying to do the warranty. Lisa's gonna not spank me."

    It turns out they decided to go ahead and warranty it and shipped a whole new unit! I got the shipping info before I ever got an email telling me they were sending one.


    The new one is still in the box in the garage.

    After they declined the warranty, I decided to extend the life of the old one by swapping the rails to the opposite sides and let the bearings dig in to new spots.

    When i install the new one, I'm gonna see about maybe lubing the rails so when the bearings are sitting in the closed position and rubbing side to side under load, they'll have some lube in there to reduce the galling. We'll see how that all works out in the future.
     
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  27. Jan 12, 2018 at 4:07 PM
    #57
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    I didn't really get into how much this bed slide is my favorite thing ever.

    If I go buy a bag of chips at the store, I open the tailgate, pull the slide out, and put the bag of chips on the slide.

    I love that damn thing.
     
  28. Jan 13, 2018 at 8:01 PM
    #58
    Eclipsed & Floating

    Eclipsed & Floating Over it.........

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    I’m right where I need to be
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    :rofl:
     
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  29. Jan 17, 2018 at 12:46 PM
    #59
    KevinK

    KevinK [OP] SGU - High Speed Overlander

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    Originally installed 11/20/2016

    Ghetto Dust Lights

    We were getting ready for some trip or another and needed a good way for people behind us to see the truck through the dust. This is a super common need in the desert and lot of really great solutions exist for it.

    This isn’t one of those.

    These are ghetto dust lights.

    Basically I searched the interwebs for the brightest amber LED replacement bulbs for the cargo lights. 921 is the bulb number. The ones I found state they’re not for continuous use. Perfect. Let’s use them continuously.

    DD7E72AA-3534-4DCF-945A-021A8926AA22.jpg 3B1747CF-069C-44F6-876D-0B76C38B5E41.jpg CD40E81D-42C9-414A-8F23-F9F6046C7527.jpg


    To quote @roypark

    “Your dust lights fuckin suck. I almost crashed into you like ten times.”

    Perfect.
     
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  30. Jan 17, 2018 at 2:32 PM
    #60
    jc153

    jc153 Speed-ish Glamper

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    BAMuffler 8" Catback, ADS 2.5 Coilovers, TC Heim Joint UCA's, TC Spindle Gussets, Wheelers Superbumps, CB Steering Kit, Carrier Bearing Drop & ABS Drop Kit, Rear ADS Triple Bypasses w/Deaver U748 Springs & TC Shackles, 17" Method Standards, 35/12.5/17 Toyo RT's, RCI Skid Plates, White Knuckle Sliders, LED's Everywhere
    Hahaha @KevinK I was going to copy your idea but don’t want Roy running into me. Who am I kidding, I’m never going to be in front of Roy!
     
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