Just changed spark plugs...never believe the previous person was capable of anything?

There you go! Your 06’ manual specs are different. Pops was right!

 

So, what we've learned thus far (that's part of what this forum is) is that apparently there is a difference between the '04 and '06 manual?
The spark plugs on our trucks need to be checked/ re-tightened in 5-7000 after installing.
Not, to assume anything. Even if it's in a picture, it may not apply to the current situation. It may be just " in the picture".

DON'T use anti-seize on spark plugs or lithium grease.

Question EVERYTHING

 

True, reduce torque buy30-40%. Bolt tension and torque are not necessarily the same. Dry bolts have a lot of friction and the torque is being used to overcome the friction to get the proper tension. I lubricate because I want them to come out next time. I've worked in some industries where the axiom was tighten till if almost strips and back off a 1/4 turn. Also, people need to be aware of the fastener grade not just the size.

As far as plugs, you don't need a torque wrench if you're experienced. I run the down till the washer is crushed then give it another bump of about an 1/8 of a turn. I have never stripped a thread installing a fastener unless it got damaged from being seized on the way out.

 

Not sure, but its still a mystery as this ATM fluid level spec seems very ‘fluid’. Even when checking from one day to the next the levels are never consistent on the dipstick. I know for sure its not 2.1 quarts!

 

My super decoder ring senses 02goes may have had ‘02many’ last night. Hahaha

Think he was crediting the lithium thing to others and just bundled it all in one.

 

Maybe.

Here's the FSM...it's not even quite exact as the truck Manual lol

 

Just a thought, but perhaps the reason the plugs are needing to be retightened every 5k is because they aren't being properly tightened. I don't think thats normal to need to retighten them.

I trust a torque wrench more than I trust myself. I'm not a pro, barely an amateur.

I just got a new torque wrench because I didn't trust my old cheap one which I had dropped. I'll give it a shot when I replace my plugs soon.

 

Thats a wide range. Guess its a matter of getting it close and rolling with it. I’d stick it at .041 ‘betweener’ range. Max range is way off, but will still work in third world.

 

I think that's probably a safe assumption. My train of thought also. But it can't be a bad idea to check them. It's not like the FSM has all the correct info 100% of the time. And the expansion and contraction sort of makes sense.

 

They loosen due to laws of thermodynamics. Everything is subject to them. I’ve changed many plugs in Japanese cars (4 cylinder) and some were slightly loose at 15-20k changings. The Tundras half are slightly loose at 8k and the others good.

30k platinums put in by mechanic were all very loose when I replaced all my coils. I thought they didn’t install them properly! I put new ones in and for grins have gone back to find they are slightly loose so blame myself! No torque wrench here, but did follow NGK hand model instructions. They know best!

Its our engine design and the deep tubes in which the plugs sit why they loosen. Good thing about knowing this is it gives us opportunity to check the engine health via random plug checks during periodic tightening.

Another thing not mentioned on this thread is plugs gaps will change over time inside the engine due to Thermodynamics. This is the reason I switched back to 2002 spec’d copper plugs as they are cheap and need replacing @20k miles. I don’t think the 05-06 DC have any other option but the 90k miles platinums cores.

 

While I am in no way questioning whether some plugs loosen on some owners Tundras, I will state that my recent experience in changing mine was the total opposite. I had not changed my plugs since I bought in 2009 with 114K miles. At 188K miles when I did change them, all of them were so tight I initially thought on the first one I was going to break it off. Took a break and did a little you tubing and found Timmy Toolman. Glad I did because of what other good videos he has. In any case, I then proceeded to finish the job by back and forth less than 1/4 turn at a time until each and everyone finally came out. Was puckered up the whole time but with patience they were out. Reinstalled new and used German Tight torque that I have always used on any vehicle owned.

 

This is quite possibly one of the dumbest things I have ever seen you say, and that's saying something. Torqued properly they will not ever need it done again unless you have a much bigger problem.

 

Bubbles my little grasshopper! I see I am slowly breaking your little nail biting bronco spirit with love. I thought you blocked me weeks ago after getting a little emotional? Just like before, I’ll say it again... feel free to click that block button anytime! I didn’t block you because like a clock, even stupid people can be right once or twice a day and I’m ok with that.

So, I guess I have a much bigger problem from your analysis, but what do you think it could be? Please enlighten me. Remember, I don’t have a torque wrench so what do these directions mean? I realize I should not fly a kite or plane with these so save your brain power on that one.

 

I see where you went wrong: according to the hieroglyphs those plugs are for three cylinder engines.

Advantage: Bubbles.

 

UPDATE: Due to the laws of thermodynamics and a handy dandy decoder ring, I did decide to pull all of the plugs and re-gap to .044.

It's the holiday season, let us be nicer to each other on here and in general. I only put my experience with my truck on here to share and hope that there was some solid input. Which, there was, there was also some great banter back and forth. Some informational, some not so much. We can go back to calling each other novice and stupid in a few months.

At the end of the day we are all just dudes with the same trucks trying to learn from each other about them.

@Professional Hand Model I about spit my beer out while reading your last spark plug comment. I think we would get along! Plus you've had some good input on my previous "novice" questions. Thanks.

Everyone have a Merry Christmas and happy new year! Thanks for the help as always.

 

Agreed, home mechanics get the tools that can be afforded and get the better tools as they go along. Craftsman is the most reliable low cost tool on the market that's less bound to have an open end wrench spread or a closed end wrench strip like cheap sockets will. Cheap sockets will also split/crack, and bust a knuckle as quick as the cheap wrenches will.

The only people I've seen fetish over something are the affluent. They ask around mechanic shops to find the best, Snap-on, and purchase them because they can afford it. Yet they never will get their cash cost return from them. They know this and don't care. Good for them.

The professional mechanics get Snap-on or the lessor cost professional tools being MAC Tools. The professionals don't fetish over the tools they get, but get them, forget about it and move on for the tools needed. No need to grind down one of those wrenches thicknesses to make it fit, or resort to using a stamped thin cheap metal wrench.

 

Your darn right...Why show that cheap arse chincy thin metal piece excuse of a wrench in there...To confuse me! Mission accomplished.
The stupid learned lithium grease mistake was from reading Corsa muffler exhaust directions of stated clamp tightness, and believing I'd get it. Won't listen to any mfg anymore after that when talking about applying that grease and torque recommendations. I'll brush that crap on after tightening it down to what I feel is right!

 

Their sockets are OK, their ratchets stuck big time. I think Husky is a lot better when it comes to cheap tools, but at this point in life I'm not even sure what brands are all in my tool box. Its a mix of what I haven't lost or broken over the years, with a handful of individual sockets and such that I've bought at autoparts stores for specific jobs. Your likely to find an Evercraft ratchet, with a husky extension hooked up to a craftsman socket as you are any one brand just because that is what I picked up off the bench.

 

Don't you belong on the Harley Davidson forums! Lol!

 

My toolbox has a mix of some wrenches my grandfather left to me along with the ridiculously over-priced snap-on and mac i have from my dealership days, and i use them both. Stay away from these though, as they no worky too well.

 

I don't think there's one person here that turns a wrench professionally or at home that isn't different with their tool supply at home. Lol, I also have one time expected use of harbor freight tools or other cheap tools in the roll around since being a kid. They are still there and work fine for light jobs, even if no longer used they're still there. I just can't throw away tools that will work, it's like throwing out edible food. I'm a tool hoarder!!

 

This sounds close to a lot of VW torque specs- tighten to 60ftlbs, then add 1/4 turn. I always wonder why they can't just say go 80ftlbs or something.

 

I've always wondered that too.

Subaru head gaskets are tighten to 50 (if I remember) and then back off two turns...and then tighten three and a half.

 

Sounds as wacky as my VW axle nuts. "torque to 200 N-m (221 ft-lbs), loosen 180°, torque to 50 N-m (37 ft-lbs) and then tighten 60°" you're also suppose to move the car until the wheel itself turns 180 before the final torque.

Anyhow, this thread went wild. A heated discussion on tools, a good bit of gap controversy, a bit of hostility. Let's cut out the hostile shit, this forum is better than that.

@FirstGenVol NGK makes good plugs but I have always preferred Denso. No compelling reason, I just think they're a bit better quality.

 

When some people start the thread with hostility who wear dish washing gloves to prevent from getting dirty, well...Credibility as a mechanic to complain about others that are professionals, to the old schooled, just went out the door. And sometimes we can't help ourselves. But that's the new gig today, and it's better than embedded irremovable permanent grease stains on the hands.

 

NGK is well known and used in the marine industry from mild to wild. Denso plugs on a hard pounding wide open long running hot rod boat is ignored, with all due respect.

 

And now the follow up summary:

 

Variable valve timing (VVT) makes all that range possible.

 

Alright, you can't resist being a dickhead huh? Nothing better to do? Your points are all moronic. The OP didnt start off hostile, you came in swinging on a list of assumptions, you're the problem.

You're worried about people's tools too much. I've torn down and rebuilt a motor with the worst tools, even used the dreaded adjustable wrench and rusty pliers because at age 17 that was all I had. Nothing went wrong, motor still runs, and my tools didnt do the job without me. Its baffling that you're such a great mechanic and think the OP used that stamped wrench to get a sparkplug out.

I wear gloves sometimes to work on my car so that when I go in my house for a beer I dont leave shit all over my door knobs and fridge, that takes away from my skills??? I bet you need to wear a uniform to feel like a pro, just like a kid wearing superman's cape to feel strong. Nobody is impressed by your finicky preferences or your tough guy mentality, so if you arent here to help others kick rocks, bro.

I don't care if you don't use Denso either, run what you'd like, ignorance is bliss.

 

This thread is ‘sparking’ all kinds of fires. Hahahaaha

I use gloves all the time, even when opening a refrigerator door. Might break a nail. Kenmore was on the hand model ‘do not use’ list back in the 90’s.