JBL Sub weak?

you sure thats not coming from the doors? but ya, if so, you must have got the one that actually works, lol.

most Toyota JBL subs couldn't move a Kleenex let alone rattle the mirror.

 

yes, they have the tuning all phucked up, way too much out of the fronts and those should roll off well before they do and the sub does dick. The enclosure is cant handle any SPL at all so I think thats why they tune it like they do, to hide the lack of sub power and enclosure quality

 

Same here. I love it, and could really make the windows vibrate with the right songs. Some tracks that come on definitely vibrate the windows more than others.

That's why I'll recommend if you have the JBL system and it sounds weak try playing a bass test on YouTube or something through android auto/airplay to make sure you're music isn't the culprit.

 

windows are vibrating since the bass is coming from the doors speakers?

 

Keep an eye out on OEM Audio Plus. I've had their audio kit on my Tacoma and it was great. I liked the quality of that kit, though it wasn't the cheapest.

I recall people mentioning a few weeks ago that they were "close" to releasing their kits & equipment for the 3rd Gen.

 

Unfortunately seems to be a common theme with these new gens. Lower quality with a higher price tag. Sorry for your experience. I wouldn’t be happy either

 

Have no clue where what speakers are located? I just know the whole cabin pretty much vibrates with certain tracks

 

It’s not the music. It’s the woofer.
Anyone that thinks this system thumps, does not require bass. Which is totally fine, but this is not a quality bass system. Like I said, the woofer isn’t even in an enclosure. If you were to unplug the woofer, there would be no difference in observed bass.

Big bummer, but fixable I guess. This and my seat memory controls not functioning are the only issues I’ve had so far. Dealer will be taking care of the seats, just need to find the time to leave my truck at the dealer. Also big bummer.

 

Switching the surround sound off in settlings made a big difference on my Limited with factory sub. If you don’t know where that is go to settings gear icon, sound & media, scroll up on right half of screen and turn off surround sound. Much fuller sound with good bass.

 

Just tried this, and it does sound a bit less muddy with surround off. What is that for anyway?

Overall I’m satisfied with the quality of the JBL system…not mind blowing but good enough where I won’t upgrade it.

 

did you by chance document how you set everything up by doing this? This is exactly what I want to do but want to make sure I get all the connections in the right spot and power it properly.

 

I’ve been thinking of buying a decent 8” shallow sub, either Rockford or kicker. There was a sick Focal 8WM but I’m not going to drop a grand on it.
Do you guys think that if I swapped the factory JBL for one of those it would sound better?

 

swaping the factory sub for anything aftermarket is going to be an upgrade. I want to add the LC2i just to maximize power from the factory head unit and also not break the bank in the process. I went with the Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 Punch P3S 8" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer

$170 Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 Punch P3S 8" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2WU8. Now I just need to make sure I install everything correctly.

 

Let me know how that goes!

 

Same, looking for just a slight increase without spending a lot of $$

 

I went from a 2014 taco to 2021 tundra. Same experience. Why is the Tacoma jbl system better than the tundra? Lol

 

I’ve yet to be impressed with any factory stereo system from any brand, although it is all subjective, I’ve had a few professionally installed active front stages with a DSP and even built a couple myself and so now my expectations are beyond any factory setup (unfortunately)

 

See the following thread for how pal9000 added two 10" kickers to his Pro. I will probably do something similar but with one 10".
https://www.tundras.com/threads/add-a-sub-to-the-jbl-system.117429/#post-3020345

 

I let Best Buy do the install. I bought an 8 gauge amp wiring harness from Amazon to go with the LCi2 and powered sub. They put the LCi2 in behind the head unit. One thing I noticed even before the install and afterwards. You need to have the "fade" on the head unit equally balanced for the best sound. If you fade all the way back to the rear, the sub does not put out any sound

 

Thanks for the advice. It doesn’t seem too difficult to diy but definitely don’t want to screw it up

 

Keep track of the seat bolts if you remove the back seat. One of the 4 is a coarse thread and has to be put back in the same place

 

Did you have to run any power wires or a new amp?

 

yes, the sub is a powered sub so I had to buy an 8 gauge amp wiring kit. As I mentioned in post #50, I had Best Buy do the install

 

I have a 2023 Platinum with the JBL system and I actually like it. The only thing is the bass is a little heavy in the front door speakers and it causes them to buzz at times.

 

Audio is kinda my thing so this thread has me thinking, what are the crossover frequencies for the cabin speakers vs. sub-woofer?

For those not terribly technical with sound, each speaker in the truck has a specific job. Tweeters go high . . . squakers and woofers all go down in frequency until the "thump" comes from the SUB-woofer. The speakers are each given these specific frequencies by either a digital crossover in the stock audio system or (unlikely) passive filter components.
Knowing where the Woofers in the doors pass off their job to the SUB-woofer in the rear is important.
Most of your audio will come through the full-range speakers and NOT the SUB-woofer. This is why the door speakers are making the mirrors rattle. They produce most of the bass content.
The sub will only take care of specific frequencies like the thud of a bass drum or part of the lowest octave on a bass guitar; its job is limited, intermittent and usually inaccurate.

SO a few questions immediately arise:
- What frequencies does the crossover assign to the door Woofers vs. SUB-woofer?
- Are these parameters adjustable by the owner?
- Is the SUB-woofer reproducing them accurately?
- Does the stock head unit have enough juice to drive a SUB?

I assume everything is powered by the stock head unit in the cabin. This means the SUB is getting it's juice from some tiny box in the front of the cabin, not an independent amp for the SUB. IF this the case, the SUB is simply under-powered. It's not the speakers fault, it's the amp's fault.

For those of you not asleep yet here's a scenario:

Joe 6Pack buys a 1794 with the JBL 12 speaker system.
The door speakers pass off the audio signal to the SUB-woofer below 50 Hz. (50Hz -20KHz).
SUB deals with anything below 50 Hz (20Hz-50Hz)
There is a clean handoff between the door speakers and SUB. no overlap.
(20Hz-50Hz)(50Hz-20Khz)

Joe says the JBL system doesn't have enough bass and buys a new Kicker sub with independent amp. Crossover frequency on the new Kicker is 80Hz (20Hz-80Hz)

Joe thinks the new Kicker is much superior and he's kinda right . . However the door speakers AND the SUBwoofer overlap between 50Hz to 80Hz so BOTH speakers overlap for a span of frequencies:

(20Hz-80Hz)
(50Hz-20KHz)
See the overlap?

It's not gonna be an accurate or flat frequency response but who cares "cuz bitchez love thump yo" and he can now rattle mirrors on the Yaris next to him.

If we know the -6dB "roll-off" of the door speakers frequency response, setting up an aftermarket SUBwoofer to be flat, clean and accurate should be relatively easy. Sound quality would improve and customers would feel like they have a top-end system.

However my guess is that Toyota/JBL designed a system like the old Bose cube systems. All highs/all lows and pretend it's cool and impressive.
If they wanted to truly impress, the rear SUBwoofer would be seperately amp'ed and driven from an independent power source.

I'm still waiting on delivery so I can't contribute more than this. Anybody confirmed how the Sub is being powered in the stock setup?

 

Who knows on all the specifics that jbl tuned in, but I can tell you they need to cut some off the low end going to the door mid drivers and pass that back to the sub, it’s like they are letting the natural roll off of the mid driver speaker act as the crossover instead of cutting it more at least 80hz. It’s being pushed to hard down there and the sub isn’t doing shit. It’s under powered and in a plastic box, even if they put some power in it the box couldn’t handle the spl, which is non existent out of a stock jbl sub

so in short , once again if you want real audio , you’ll need a to replace parts , you can’t do it by settings, it’s too locked up as far as tuning and power

when I get mine I’ll bring this system I have now over but likely go jl fix dsp off the head unit then out to the real amps , my 3 way focals, and jl sub I have in a real box.


Anywho , i still have to get my rig allocated then get this system out of my current rig and ready for the new one

 

Any idea how audio upgrades will affect warranty?

 

Try @tech12volts

 

I’ve never had a problem, this would be my 5th tundra with aftermarket audio

but I don’t half ass it, I have great professional installers

I used to be really into this stuff but as the years and other stuff rolls by, I just don’t follow like a used too

I’ve been really happy with what I have now for a while so I haven’t messed with it , I have pioneer head unit, 3 way focals up front powered by a 6 channel jl amp , bridged on the front and then the other two channels running the focal component rears. I then have a 600/1 jl amp to a jl 10l” thin , with remote bass knob

It’s not a shake the block system but a high sound quality system

gotta have crowbar sound heavy like it really is, ha!

 

This thread should be helpful, I don't know if it will have he info you seek, but there is other info. For the JBL premium, there is an amp under driver seat but I believe it's for more than just sub.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/