Is it repairable?

Yup, I'd be getting quotes from actual repair shops, not the estimator that isn't going to be actually fixing anything.

 

This. Body shops very often find more things broken or in need of massaging or replacement as they go along which can drastically increase the repair cost. In addition they have issues with aftermarket parts not fitting correctly and then arguing with the insurance company for replacements and eventually factory parts if they are worth their salt.

the initial estimates are typically low for this reason.

 

I assume there will be some add-ons, what got me was he could not comment on potential frame issue till they start taking things off and measuring. ANy frame issue could change the game I think.

 

Toyota's sheet metal used in Tundra is very thin. It may look bad and crumpled, but the damage is likely isolated to only what looks crumpled. I don't think the frame is damaged. Maybe getting a second hand bed and door, and painting them will be cheaper.

The cab can be pulled out more or less easily. I did mine with PDR toolkit with no effort when I left a big dent while moving the Leer cap around. Same toolkit gave up pulling a 20 years old Volvo, which feels like a motorized gun safe compared to Tundra.

 

I have a 91 Volvo 240, can confirm, much thicker sheet metal on the brick.

 

Any repairs over $500 will show at carfax for excessive damage. Hope your insurance and body shop are good. Some insurance only pay for aftermarket body panels and some body shop will charged for panels swap but just pull and bondo. Read the invoice and ask which part is repaired and which part have panel swapped, bring a magnetic body tester to see if they BS. Good luck to you

 

It is low. Every insurance company estimate is low. The real estimate comes once the body shop is able to disassemble the damaged area and complete a full inspection. They will send a supplement to the insurance company for approval and once it's approved then the shop will order parts and start repairs.

I work in a body shop so if you have any questions, please feel free to message me with any questions. I deal with insurance and repairs daily.

 

I've been in collision repair in Texas for 25ish years. I currently manage a repair facility in Caddo Mills, Texas. $7200 is a joke. Who is the insurance company? Year? Mileage?

feel free to DM me, I'll provide my contact info. I'd be happy to provide any insight, wisdom or whatever I can to assist you and your family through this process. I'll be more than happy to help guide you through to ensure you either A: get a safe proper repair, or B: get appropriately compensated for your loss.

start researching APPRAISAL CLAUSE in case the insurance company does decide to total. IF they total, DO NOT ACCEPT THEIR FIRST OFFER! If you invoke the appraisal clause, you will have to hire an independent 3rd party appraiser, who can and will fight to get you every penny you deserve. Out of pocket cost is minimal compared to the "loss" you will take with an unfair settlement. The insurance company isn't in business to take care of you. They are in the business to NOT pay claims, or minimize the payments made. No offense to any insurance folks in here.. I'm just a bitter old body shop guy that wants to ensure people are protected, not huge insurance company corporations. (at least this applies in Texas)

dakillacore is absolutely correct.

YOU have the RIGHT (in Texas at least) to choose ANY repair facility you wish. Don't listen to any ins. co's BS about you need to take it to "one of our shops" to get a guarantee on repairs etc etc etc. YOU take it where YOU want it repaired. If the shop is worth a flip, they will document, educate, bill for EVERYTHING the truck needs to safely restore to pre loss condition. It's always a "fight", and different insurance companies have different challenges to overcome. Make sure your shop of choice has YOUR best interest at heart, not the insurance company. Again, feel free to reach out and I can talk you through most questions or concerns you may have.

 

I'm the guy that buys these late model wrecks. Usually salvage title with lots of body and air bags damage.

I agree with the $7200 quote...if I was doing this repair myself. An Indy paint/body shop is going ask that price just for the labor.

I already have the tools and the know how. They are both paid for.

It's hard to add that cost to the parts that would just be replaced.

I'm not understanding why the IC is dragging their feet. You pay them every month just for this type of situation. They should get the damn thing fixed and move on.

Oh, and guess what? Rates are gonna go up weather you fix it or not.

It's not your job to go after the at fault driver.

 

This guy gets it.

 

Thanks for advise guys, I will be contacting another body shop soon. The IC is the The Hartford, I spoke with my IC rep yesterday. He was not surprised by the low quote and said it was part of their process. He said that number will be nowhere near the final number. What a bunch of crap. My biggest concern at this point is timeline for repair or total. I use the truck as a truck, and I have no alternative at this point. So if it takes months to repair I am kind of screwed. My other cars are both running projects and not reliable enough for long trips.
I have been doing market research in case I have to enact the appraisal clause. I helped my Mom after her car got totalled and was able to get her payout from 8800 to about 11000 for her Honda. That was not in TX so the process was a little different.

 

In my area a typical repair is taking about 1 month to a month and a half due to back ordered parts, insurance reps taking a week+ to come inspect supplements and other issues.

Things to take note of:
1) If this is the other parties insurance then you will have a rental car for as long as the repair takes. Your insurance company will only offer a 30 day rental due to your policy, if you opted for rental car coverages.
2) Some insurance companies may not approve a rental amount that will pay for a full sized truck, so you could be out of pocket for some if you need a truck.
3) If your area permits, you will be getting a check at the end of repairs due to diminished value. Here in Georgia there is a law that protects this for the consumers but your area my vary. I suggest looking into this.
4) Parts back order all the time. There are a few parts that we know will back order but its hard to say for the most part. Things back order at random these days.
5) The insurance company will factor aftermarket parts on the estimate. The general rule is that any vehicle over 2 years old is eligible for aftermarket/used parts (insurance company policy). It does not matter if you were at fault or not (unless you chose an all OEM parts policy with your insurance company then your insurance would cover for full OEM). If you go to a Toyota Collision repair facility then they can match the prices on these used and aftermarket parts, within a certain threshold, and use OEM parts instead. They have a lot more wiggle room with this because Toyota covers the difference. Other shops won't have this pull and you would need to pay the difference for OEM parts or stick with the aftermarket/used parts.
6) There will be multiple supplements. Insurance companies want to pay as little as possible for repairs and will cut items off of the shops supplements that they submit. A typical repair will have anywhere from 3-5 supplements. And each supplement has to be paid or at least the shop has to receive a "Promise to pay" before they can release the vehicle back (some shops don't require this).
7) If the shop is waiting on a supplement approval from the insurance company then I would suggest that you reach out to them to help push the approvals along faster. They will listen more to the customer than they do with the shop.
8) You have a very large repair on your hands here. The cab corner is crushed and needs to be replaced. This is a welded on part and this means that they will have to remove a large majority of your interior trim/seats/battery/curtain airbags and so forth. The bedside and door also have to be replaced. Your frame is going to be fine. The only time that I have seen frame damage is on hard rear end hits and front end hits. Generally side impacts never affect the frame unless you were t-boned by a semi or other extremely heavy vehicle.

There is a lot of advice in this thread that is good and also that is not. Listen to those that actually have body shop experience and not from those that "just know". Real life experience trumps any youtube university masters or lot lizard repairers.

Good luck and reach out for any help!

 

You want a job, Dakillacore!? Top dollar man! Excellent information.

completely agree with his statements here.

I’ve seen Chevys take frame damage from cab corner hits, but those are few and far between. It catches the cab mount and rolls up and in. GM does not allow the use of heat to repair their frames, so those spots are near impossible to properly repair.
Toyotas on the other hand, RARELY fold up in similar fashion. I’m a LONGTIME GM guy, so im not baggin on em.. but after 26 years in the collision industry I I’m of the opinion that Toyotas trucks hold up better in the case of heavy impacts.

glad to be a Tundra owner finally. Safe as hell, tough as hell.

 

Ha If I need one I know who to ask! You bring up great information.

It's important that people know that things have to be repaired safely. Just because someone could repair that cab corner doesn't mean that it should be repaired. It will not take another impact as designed by the manufacturer and could cause serious bodily injury or death due to poor repairs or non-authorized repairs. Reputable body shops follow manufacturer guidelines on repairs to get them back to pre-accident condition as much as possible. Other body shops will put inches thick bondo over that and put it back on the road. Morally that is just wrong. Cars are repaired and manufactured a specific way for safety and durability.

Everyone has to know this fact: Cars are designed to crush and absorb kinetic energy so that your body doesn't. Older cars weren't designed that way and a lot more people died as a result. Poor repairs mean that the vehicle will not absorb damage as it should and can/will transfer that energy to the driver and their occupants, leading to injury and death. Yes, 20 years ago a car would take a hit and barley be dented but your body will not have the same outcome. I have seen wrecks come through my doors where I was sure the person had to have died or have serious injuries but no, they walked in like nothing happened. This is because of the cars ability to absorb that damage and crush in certain designated crush zones created by the manufacturer.

Unapproved repairs = serious risk.

 

On this note, here’s a really eye opening crash test between an old and “new” car.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fPF4fBGNK0U

 

Great video link! I am pretty sure that I saw this video in one of our I-CAR training seminars, hah. Thank you for linking that. Visuals help explain more that words can even try to.

 

That was definitely circulating in I-car circles for awhile. CRAZY, still.

 

Great advice from both of the body shop guys here @Dakillacore @CMTX 1794 !
What they said is more than 100% and the only way to deal with these slimy insurance companies. Never take their first offer, and I'd also add that you should communicate in emails if you can. That way you have their ever changing BS statements in writing. This tactic has served me well dealing with them and getting what's due for me. It's always a PIA spending so much time on these matters, but only you will have your best interest at heart, so take that attitude to them to ensure you can return to whole again on their dime. That's why we have insurance. It sucks that we have to stand up for ourselves every time these asshats have to pay a claim but if we don't, they will take advantage.

 

This is known as the "profit margin" where financial sociopaths pat themselves on the back for selling consumers coverage, and then denying access to it!

 

Corporate Agenda.

 

Insurance is a business, and as such they are designed to make money for shareholders. The Dodge brothers sued Ford for trying to give back to the employees and lower margins. The Dodge Brothers won and it became the law of the land (effectively through precedent) that companies have to put shareholders first.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_v._Ford_Motor_Co.

So, don’t take it personally.


That said, Those of us with 401ks or pensions are shareholders as well, even if unwittingly. So it’s a double edged sword… we don’t want to pay to pad margins or get screwed but we do want our retirement savings to increase to compensate and hopefully strongly beat inflation.

That said, it sure is a bullshit business model to rely on denying people claims to their individual detriment or screw them over with the lowest quality cheapest repairs possible in the name of keeping margins up.


Listen to the guys in here that are in the business they know how to use the regulatory system and laws to keep you from getting boned. If you don’t the insurance companies will get away with whatever they can by banking on your ignorance to the regulations//laws or your inability or unwillingness to sue them to get them to follow said regulations//laws.

 

Full Tort is the only way. You never want to give up your legal rights to sue.

 

When my Tundra Gen 2, was hit by a deer, it was only with about 20k miles on it. The process was to take it for quotes, not let the insurance company dictate. Legit vehicle repair centers know how to process the ordeal. Do NOT just listen to the insurance company.

Also, the repair shop asked me about after market parts and I declined only wanting OEM. Was fully covered by the insurance company.

 

Per my last post, I jumped on my home network to pull some pics, a long time ago...trying to post pics to this forum for the first time. Hope this works. If looking for the cost, would have to dig thru my files to find the numbers from about 7 years ago.

 

Yes, if not totaled in many states you should get the diminished value in addition to the repairs, but you may have to ask as is the requirement in WA state.

 

Anyone could buy totaled vehicle b4 the insurance announce total loss, fix it and sell it as clean title without major damage on carfax, same shit with them flooded clean title no carfax vehicles showing up all over internet.

 

With the amount of brown colored dust cloud that emanated from under that Belair, it looks like they used a very rusty specimen for their unbiased(?) crash test.

 

I'm not following your post. Not saying it's wrong, I just think you left out some info.