Ironman 4x4 Suspension

Even with the IM tool I think it would be somewhere between very difficult and impossible to adjust the shock on the truck... so I'd definitely give it your best shot with the first try.

If you want 2.5-3", I'd at least adjust the passenger side as low as possible, and the other side down to match.

 

I was thinking the amount of pressure on the adjusters would be similar to being uninstalled on the truck if I removed the wheel and let them hang at full droop on a lift/jacks, but with the added benefit of being held in place on the truck to stabilize it while wrenching. There shouldn’t be any major additional tension at full droop right?

 

The problem is having too much stuff in the way to use the tool. I couldn't do it on mine adjusted at 2" and these new ones are even lower on the shock when adjusted at 3.5". I'm not sure what you'd need to take loose, but something.

 

As I'd mentioned before, I don't know how much lift I actually have, because it's been almost five years since my truck was stock height. but my front end seems slightly lower with the new struts. If I was to guess, I think I'm sitting right at 3". and the ride quality is quite a bit better than the previous version! If you dropped that passenger side collar all the way to the bottom, I bet you'd be really close to that 2.5" mark you're shooting for

 

G'day guys!

These are some great insights you all have shared on the FCP setup for the Tundra, so glad I came across this.
I am new to the Tundra world, just got my hands on a 2020 CM 1794 with 70K miles.








Sold my 100 series LC with IM nitro lift just this past month.



I also have a GX460 with the Dobinsons IMS setup.




I was wondering if anyone has some feedback on how this setup performs at fairly high speeds? Not planning on desert racing but let's say doing around 25 mph on washboards or bumpy desert trails. My build will primarily be catering to light off road action with occasional desert runs (Pismo/Oregon dunes) which may see some (medium) speed action. Out of that, the rig will be seeing pavement for 90% of the time. The price point for the complete FCP kit is unbeatable so I'm pretty sold on it. Just want to avoid buyers remorse later since I'm also looking at the Dobinsons IMS setup which I quite like in the GX.

Cheers.

 

The ride on pavement is pretty firm... you will feel the little bumps more. FCPs have high damping and it's digressive. I think the truck handles very well with no swaybars, and offroad at speed it does great.

About washboard specifically, I don't know. My OEM shocks with the same tires I have in my sig, did very well on some washboard, but not others. Washboard tends to be such high frequency that I'm not sure shocks are able to keep up... reduced tire pressure is the best thing you can do. One thing that is definitely in favor of the FCPs is control, even though the ride may not be smooth. No wallowing, gyrations, or other weirdness. Very stable.

 

Thank you @rruff
That is pretty good info, I like the control aspect on a suspension. It feels very floaty atm on the stock setup given the mileage in my case.

 

Ya, hate the floaty feel... and when going fast over bumps and turning, it would buck and wallow and feel like shit. Losing the swaybar was another benefit as it lets the wheels react independently.

If you get fat 35s similar to what I have, onroad pressure of ~30-35psi wears flat and you can air them down a lot more for washboard.

NOTE: They may have changed the valving since I got mine a year ago. CaptainCobb seemed to think his new replacements were smoother...

 

Absolutely true, I was thinking of adding the TRD sway bar at the back but reckon it won't be necessary after the lift.
I read CaptainCobb's observation and that definitely helps boost confidence in FCP knowing they've improved the struts further.
Glad you mentioned tires since I am currently researching on that topic. I definitely want the 35x12.5R18s but trying to narrow down on the wheels, might keep the stock ones plus a hub centric spacer for now since I just can't decide.

 

I guess maybe I’ll try and adjust them down as low as possible. I ordered an assortment of spanners. So if I drop the passenger side to the bottom and the drivers the same amount, that should hopefully maintain the levelness side to side? Also, any tips for adjusting them off the truck to keep the shock from spinning as I wrench? I measured and I have about 24” from the center of the wheel hub to the fender on my current setup. I guess that may only equate to about a 2” lift based on your guys numbers. It already had these Toytec adjustables made with 5100s on it when I bought the truck.

I’d leave them at the 3-3.5” range but I’d like to maintain some rake for towing and not have to further adjust my WDH. I’m also afraid of going too high and prematurely wearing CV joints and CV boots.

 

The harshness that CC experienced with his old set, maybe could have been due to a little higher lift + the spring rubbing on the shock body, too...

35x12.5r18 are a little too wide for a 8" rim according to specs. 295/70r18 are just a hair smaller (couple 10ths shorter and narrower) and fit on 8" rims with no spacer. 285/75r18 fit also, and are taller than 35s (which are only ~34.6" in reality). If you get new rims, at least +25 offset (stock is +60) with 9" width are best, and I like the 325/65r18 size. Some 17" rims with decent offset will fit too.

 

I bought mine assembled so had to compress the spring anyway, so I don't know. The lower mount is the one you need to hold. A steel rod or pipe of the right diameter should do it...? Might want a helper too.

 

FYI, if you contact them they will sell just the front pre assembled struts, currently on sale for $980

 

Medium 45780FE-BCK-PB - Foam Cell Pro Pre-Built Coilover Set Suited For 2007+ Toyota Tundra
and heavy 45780FE-CCK-PB - Foam Cell Pro Pre-Built Coilover Set Suited For 2007+ Toyota Tundra

 

I'm gonna guess people have been getting the mediums, and the heavies will be even longer...

 

I’ll be ordering the heavies tomorrow, hopefully the coils aren’t that much longer

 

That is a good to note, reckon I will keep the front max height to 3 inches so as to avoid issue CC faced.

Been reading up on the tire and wheel threads and seeing the caliper clearance think I'll play it safe and stick to the 18s. Looking at method 314 wheels (18x9) but the offset is +18 so reckon it's not too far off.

https://www.methodracewheels.com/products/314-matte-black?variant=13607941701693

Just need to choose between 35x12.5 and the 285/75s size. I would love the meatier 35/12s but a I like the idea of tighter steering with a slightly narrower 285/75s, where I can also keep the stock wheels for now with spacers if needed for clearance.

 

It's good to look at detailed specs of tires to see what you are really getting; actual diameter, actual width (and the rim width it's measured on... allow .3-.4" tire width change for a 1" rim width change), and tread width. Tread width is the more important width measurement IMO. 35x12.5 are neither as tall nor as wide as you'd expect. They are almost always measured on 10" rims, but are typically mounted on 8.5 or 9". They are very close to 295/70r18 in all aspects which are usually cheaper. 325/65r18 are quite a but wider and just as tall.

 

True. Was just going through tire threads and I can see the stouter 35 like stance can definitely be achieved with the correct width and offset on 285s which is mainly what appeals to me. Pictured below for reference is member crewmaxlmt's truck. (Method wheels with same the same spec I mentioned earlier)




And for perspective, below is member COTundra23's PRO with the same 285/75s on pro rims with a 1.25" spacer. The more I look at it, the more appealing it get's. I'm gonna look at spacers and probably should give this a go first since I can always get the Method's later on if I don't end up loving it.

 

The 285s look good on 8" rims... A 1.25" spacer will give you +28mm offset on stock rims.

 

The new stuff rides soooo much better at the factory assembled height!! I’m running 37x12.5r17” BFG KM3s, which we know run a little short for a 37” tire. 17” Methods with 0 offset
Just depends what you plan on doing with it.

 

Can you get front pics of the rig and see how much poke and the side shot? I have the original FCP, waiting to get into the shop to put on Dirty Sevens.

Love the shoot.

 

Nice

 

Just got mine! I don’t remember them advertising these as Nitro filled on the previous model?

 

They weren't... no pressure in the shocks at all. Are the back ones pressurized? You won't be able to tell in the front with the springs installed, but if the back ones want to be fully extended and are really hard to compress, then they are pressurized.

 

The rears are not pressurized, I just noticed it on the front packaging, I wonder if that has anything to do with the improved ride?

 

I think they just put them in the wrong box. Nitro Gas is one of their lines.

 

"The Foam cell pro shock is filled with premium grade FUCHS oil and our foam cell sleeve technology. The foam cell sleeve, impregnated with millions of tiny bubbles of nitrogen, maximizes oil and thermal carrying capacity and eliminates high internal pressures found on regular nitro gas-shock absorbers."

The foam is impregnated with nitrogen.

 

after a second look, the box does not say foam cell pro, so you are probably right.

 

True, I think they ran out of boxes for the FCPs. I ordered mine yesterday and they're already on their way. Let's see if I get the same boxes.

BTW what UCAs are you guys running? I went through half a dozen UCA thread's/YT videos and still not sure. There's Freedom offroad at the budget end of the spectrum and then there's SPC which I have had on 3 vehicles previously and also the JBA ones.

I am leaning towards SPC for the adjustability but I did have the BJs fail on my Hundy (SPC sent me replacements at no charge) so I bit doubtful since it did cost me labor plus alignment.