Instructions for custom tuning the truck with HPTuners.

I'll try locking 3rd on mine when I get the chance and report back.

 

I came here to find the way to use HP Tuners to disable the AIP system (truck goes into limp mode now that it's not working) and I'd just like to shut the whole works off. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I've done some tuning before on Dodge vehicles but this is my first Toyota.

 

Can't turn it off, but you can disable the throttle restrictions from the AIP limp mode and turn the CELs off, but the system will still try to operate. At least that's how I understand it...

 

Anyone know if there is a VFT thread like this?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/vf-tuning-ov-tune-revived-thread.90401/

Used to be a huge thread, but then Mat got banned and I believe started his own forum for VFT where theoretically there's more information.

 

I think he abandoned that, it was pretty rubbish anyway, IMO.

 

I had looked a few weeks back, there was a rumor that I could tune my GX460 and after all I do own a copy of VFT. Except I couldn't find the forum or am too dumb, and it seems to be that you can't tune the newer 460s anyway.

 

I kept it bookmarked for a while, but deleted it after a period of it not loading or something, it's been a while. I saw a post dated Nov 2020 on Ih8mud where Mat said that the 460 ECU could be unlocked and tuned, but that was 3+ years ago, the year range wasn't specified, and I don't remember what year yours is. When I perused it, it seemed that there were just a lot of questions and either no or vague answers. @mZiggy might know more and be able to fill in blanks and provide more accurate answers than me.

 

The newer GX460s can be tuned, although a few ECUs aren't supported yet. In VF anyway. Would have to check for HPT but I don't believe so.... Matter of identifying the ECM part number and submitting for support though.

 

Everything I saw was they're only supported up to 2020 or something. If 2022s can be done and I missed that I'll have to look into it more seriously or reach out to you. The 460 needs some boost

 

I’ve tuned a few 19+ 460’s, so they are supported

 

You know your ECU ID?

 

Not off hand, I'll pull it when the wife gets home tonight

 

Awesome. 19+ GX460 is 10credits to license, FYI. And anyone else with a GX, shoot me you ECU ID and year, and I’ll check if it’s supported, and if not, I can help get it supported.

 

Holy shit, that’s a pricey buy in.

 

Yeah, those and 20+ 4Runner, 22+ Tundra, and 24+ Tacoma are all 10 credits.

 

Having a couple tuning hicups after swapping the Maggy box (MAF rescale) and 80mm pulley. Drivability is awesome, LTFT are good, just leaner than I want up top. My injector constant was perfect with DW650's and stock MAF/airbox, adding TRD PE values and it was 98% there. 9.8-10.3:1 at WOT.

To get a baseline, anyone with DW650's willing to either share their tune or pull up their injector constant? Running boost referenced Harrop FRP, but at idle it won't matter.

I'm close to maxing the MAF table and PE and seeing 11:1 at redline shifts, too lean for me. I think I need to adjust the Inj constant to move back "under the curve" of the MAF table. Also, I've datalogged and tried about 5 tunes today and I may just be mentally fatigued. Giving up for the night.

FWIW, my LTFT are beautiful, mostly -5's and below. It's the top of the rev range I'm running into issues.

 

Here is from my file for the same fueling setup, Magnuson intake with SABM. The main difference I have though is honeycomb air straightener before the MAF sensor though so I'm sure that changes things. The MAF was also tuned with logs taken in 40 degree weather. I will say, while I try to adhere to the "keep it in the 10's" for AFR I'm still skeptical that it is the end all be all solution and think low 11's aren't the end of the world based on what some different tuners tune for. I know PS are the ones who were originally pushing that narrative alongside what some would consider overkill, pricy fueling upgrades.

 

@Silver17 Really appreciate the info, looks like you've got exactly what I was thinking I needed, adjusted injector constant and rescaled MAF to match.

Now I need to figure out why I'm getting time units only for the injector constant, that's not how I configured it originally, "0.075350" with stock MAF. I can cycle units, but it's still only time. Shows the same way in all of my old tunes as well. I didn't catch it until I went to compare details.

 

Once all relatively dialed (fuel trims are low) the MAF and IC and PE scale linearly.

If you are up against PE or MAF I usually adjust by 20% (10% gets used up quickly so that's why I do 20% but doesn't matter). That means increase IC by 20% which commands 20% more fueling, to make that not insanely rich you pull 20% air (so it injects 20% less fuel to try and target AFR) so you reduce all MAF values by 20% and then again PE needs to be dropped back 20%.

So:

IC +20%
MAF -20%
PE -20%

Once you do that the truck will be running the exact same, but you now have 20% more PE and 20% more MAF to play with before hitting the max range.

Injector constant is really a fairly arbitrary value and should not be focused on. You can have a IC of .07 or .13 with the same injectors and it will run totally fine. In general I find a higher IC solves most issues though---but again, it doesn't matter what the IC is, it only matters what the ratio of IC to other values is.

 

Thank for validating what I was thinking I needed to do, and what @Silver17 parameters seem to show.

I'm also not too scared with 11:1 afr, but I'm noticing a bit of detonation I want to see if it'll calm down with a richer mix or if I need to adjust my timing curve from the previous one with the 85mm pulley. I follow @snivilous technique to tune the timing map for ZERO detonation as a cushion for bad fuel, humidity, heat soak.

 

I ran for a few years on the TRD SC tune. My afr's were in the 11-11.6 range at 10psi. Got off my butt and got hpt and some upgrades with @snivilous tuning. Even before PS came on the scene we knew to try to keep the cylinders cool. That's also where you'll see the low to mid 10's for "peace of mind" while in pushing it. But we know we make decent power in 11-12 afr's...but not for Tundras. Keep it in the 10's!

 

What I do, and of course this is my backyard garage tuning logic so take it with a grain of salt:

Someone gives me the configuration you have. I'll start with the TRD MAF values (pull from a TRD stock file on the HPT forum Toyota repository). Start with a IC of .09 usually and PE of 1.4. Person datalogs. If there are any global fuel trims changes (like the whole fuel trim can move 12%) then I do that with the IC. Any small deviations in fuel trim that are single cell dependent I change with the MAF table.

The MAF table and IC change together, but in general I try to only adjust the MAF for small changes since the IC can only do larger global changes.

Now say the IC settles in at 0.1 and the MAF I only tweaked the lower airflow values (what I find needs adjusting with pulleys usually). Now the fuel trims are fine, but not enough fueling during PE. I bump PE to 1.5 and the injectors only hit 85% duty cycle (another common thing I find). Now I bump IC 20%, drop the whole MAF table 20%, lower PE 20%. Same baseline effectively. Now bump PE to like 1.4 or whatever.

Now you're at a very custom MAF table, an IC of like .12, PE of 1.4. Fuel trims are minimal and pretty consistent, enrichment AFR is where I want, and there's still room to push PE higher without scaling more shit (not that it really matters, but just less work in the future if need be).

Now say this person installs a 5" intake. Since the MAF values are already heavily scaled down so they're nowhere near the limit, I have two options of either scale the MAF values for the new intake area or scale the IC by the area difference. If I scale the MAF then the PE doesn't get screwed with as much so usually that's what I go with then. I want to adjust the MAF to IC ratio, and adjusting IC ALSO affects the PE to IC ratio so if I can get away with only scaling the MAF (despite it being a global adjustment so contradicting the initial setup methodology) I'll do that with the intake changing size.


That's all my baseline methodology. Regardless though, at the end of the day the ratios of everything is what actually matters and you'll end up at the same ratios either way.

 

AND LASTLY. Since my wife is driving and I have nothing better to do I am not a professional tuner by any stretch, and the setup I do is heavily derived from @ViktorG thoughts as well as other safety factors I found on the HPT forum and my own desire to make my engine live at 299,500+ miles I tell people I want 10-11 range for AFR, and low 11s be cautious and back out at 11.5 since that's leaner than I like. AFR moves around a lot depending on conditions. OTT has said low 11s for AFR is totally fine so I've been more relaxed about worrying about 11s, but I still don't want mid-high 11s personally. I don't have a dyno or the time to spend figuring out when the engine blows up. I want it fat rich and pull maybe more timing than needed so the worst knock retard events are -4 or better. Is that conservative? I fucking hope so! But I'm not a professional, just a dude with a garage

 

Thanks @snivilous and @Silver17 for the data check and being a sounding board. Did a +20% INJ and -20% on the MAP table, along with a little trim work during lunch today. Just flashed it and we're back in business. AFR's high 9's to mid 10's so I'm happy, although I'll still work to smooth them a little more.

Next up will be timing adjustments, still getting a little knock at higher RPM's, but the extra fuel seemed to calm a lot of it down.

Love this rag tag community we have here...

 

That's awesome! Out of curiosity how are you going about setting timing? Using the factory timing maps and then adjusting all cells the same amount or something else?

 

That's roughly what I had been doing. Until now the stock timing maps ran just great with the 85mm and rich mixture.

I'm seeing a fair amount of variance between posted "TRD SC Tunes" on HPT and elsewhere, so I'm interpolating between what I find and what others have posted. Currently just pulled 2 degrees out at higher RPM/load cells to match the more conservative TRD map, call it the "bottom right" 1/9th of the table. IE, previous peak timing was 24 at bottom load cells, now 22. Small changes and I'll drive it for a while.

 

I feel like this thread deserves to be a sticky at this point.

 

For some reason I was brought back to this thread and saw my post about testing 3rd gear lock up. I'm guessing that I got distracted and forgot about it when it probably started snowing and I changed out to my snow tires, I don't horse on my truck near as much with the studded tires as their traction is awful if the pavement happens to be dry as well as they're too expensive to be trashed on like that.

Now I have my summer Michelins on and yesterday was a nice day.

I already have 4th gear set to lock up, as most of us with a custom tune already have, and that seems to be without issue. So far, at least in my testing up to this point, the settings that I've used seem to be fine as well. To cut to the chase, I have Apply set to 1200 across the board, and Release set to 1000. This is for Normal, AI/Cruise/Coast, and Tow/Haul. Low speed grocery getting and WOT no problems. In slow accelerations it will up shift to 3rd unlocked and then 4th unlocked, below about 30-35% accelerator pedal position. More aggressive throttle, say merging on to a highway behind a BMW (always seem to be behind someone slower ) has it shifting to 3rd unlocked for a short period, then 3rd locked and depending upon you particular transmission tuning, on to 4th unlocked. It feels to me to be pretty nicely spaced out in terms of how much time it spends unlocked then transitions to locked, nice and progressive. It doesn't spend too much or too little time unlocked before locking. Now that I think about it though, I've just realized that I've only tested this in Drive, not in S-Mode nor Tow/Haul, but I would be very surprised to find that it would behave differently, at least with my transmission tuning. I kind of did that on purpose, just to drive it like I normally would to not think about it and imagine something that isn't there. YMMV. If nothing else, it seems to be a good place to start and fine tune from there.

 

I've actually gone to a completely stock shift schedule as of a week or two ago. I rebuilt the tune for my truck using the same logic I use for everyone else, and went ahead and ignored having the 4/5/6 always being locked just to see how it feels (and since my truck has been resigned from most towing jobs now). I don't know if I have a preference of locking/unlocking compared to the stock values since it feels pretty similar, though I admit I haven't driven the truck much the past couple weeks to get a decent comparison.