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Installing Sub to stock stereo - my install

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by csuviper, May 28, 2015.

  1. May 28, 2015 at 11:02 PM
    #1
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    First Name:
    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2012 Rock Warrior 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    So i decided to document my install. Made the install take a little longer but might give others ideas about how to go about their own install.

    Line Output Converter: AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Subwoofer Control
    Sub: Sony Xplode XS-L1035
    Sub Enclosure: Custom built by myself using 3/4" thick MDFB
    Amp: MTX Audio
    Wire Kit: Lightning Audio by Rockford Fosgate 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Kit
    Add a fuse holder: Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse
    Base control knob: ACR-1 Remote Level Control installed in switch blank curtsy of @TruckyTruck

    Concept drawing of the sub box.
    Tundra Sub Box 1.jpg Tundra Sub Box 2.jpg

    Using the table saw to cut the MDF.
    IMG_5155.jpg

    Drawing the hole for the sub. Used a drill bit, cardboard and pencil.
    IMG_5156.jpg

    Started the main hole using a whole saw and then moved to a saber saw to complete. Finished off with sander.
    IMG_5157.jpg

    Progress of the enclosure.
    IMG_5189.jpg

    Enclosure screwed together.
    IMG_5193.jpg

    Completed custom sub enclosure with sub installed. Nothing fancy but it does the job. It is painted with Rustoleum truck bed liner.
    IMG_5264.jpg




    Chose to place the fuse for the amp in the engine compartment fuse box. Drilled two small holes and used grommets to seal it up with the wire. These were the two locations that made sense that i could get a drill to without removing the fuse box and wireclips.
    IMG_5198.jpg

    Close up of the fuse siting in the fuse box
    IMG_5200.jpg




    Chose to put the LOC in the space under the cup holders. Had to drill a hole in the side where the storage space is to feed all the wires through.
    IMG_5220.jpg

    Close up of the hole with wires to the LOC
    IMG_5240.jpg

    Chose to run the power, accessory and RCA cables from the stereo to the amp in the wire runners under the plastic panel by the door. Not sure what they are actually called.
    IMG_5219.jpg

    To get to the stereo you have to remove the cup holders, the center console single cup holder/storage piece, cig ligher section and A/C controls before finding the 4 bolts that need to be removed for the stereo.
    IMG_5217.jpg

    Closer pic of the stero showing the bolts to be removed.
    IMG_5216.jpg

    An add a line fuse holder was used to provide accessory power to the amp. This plugs into either an open slot or an occupied slot. The add a line fuse holder has two spots for fuses. One as a replacement of the existing fuse and one for the new wire that you can connect to.
    IMG_5234.jpg

    Add a line fuse holder installed (bottom of pic with 10A fuse sideways)
    IMG_5237.jpg

    LOC in position. Wires not cleaned up yet.
    IMG_5239.jpg

    Removed the rear seat to be able to run the amp wiring under the carpet.
    IMG_5243.jpg

    Connection of power and ground for the LOC to the cig lighter accessory outlet.
    IMG_5241.jpg

    Amp in position under the seat and wires pulled under the carpet.
    IMG_5245.jpg

    Base adjustment knob installed in the switch blank (provided to my by @TruckyTruck from his previous install)
    IMG_5242.jpg

    The ground connection point that i chose was next to the rear seat belt piller. It is the ground point for the rear window motor.
    IMG_5247.jpg

    Close up of the ground connection.
    IMG_5248.jpg

    Amp in position and wired up.
    IMG_5251.jpg

    Close up of the wires pulled through the carpet.
    IMG_5246.jpg

    Amp in position and seat installed.
    IMG_5253.jpg

    Removing the center console single cup holder and storage section. Just pull up and it pops off.
    IMG_5266.jpg

    Completed look at the battery. No wires show for the amp install.
    While i was doing the install i decided to clean up the battery terminals and replace the rusted and acid covered battery hold down with an aftermarket rubber hold down that i found at Advance Auto. Snug fit. Just need to trim the supports down.
    IMG_5268.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 29, 2015
    Bob, Sean266 and TruckyTruck like this.
  2. May 29, 2015 at 5:02 AM
    #2
    msg148

    msg148 Hulk Smash

    Joined:
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    #1203
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    Philadelphia
    Vehicle:
    15 Tundra Platinum Package
    7" BDS coilover lift kit w/Fox front and rear suspension, 20" Monster 2 Rims, 37" Deegan Tires, TRD Exhuast, TRD Intake, Bushwacker Pocket Flares, Blacked out Mirrors/Door handles, LED interior lights, Stubby Antenna, Bakflip F1 Tonneau Cover, 20% Tint Front windows
    Looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for the write up.
     
  3. May 29, 2015 at 9:59 AM
    #3
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
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    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2012 Rock Warrior 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Updated with descriptions for each pic.
     
  4. May 29, 2015 at 1:22 PM
    #4
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck New Member

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    Gary
    Texas
    This is an awesome thread! I really like what you did with the fuse box hiding the main amp fuse. I might have to do that one. I'd really like to to see how your rear seat sits with the box and what you think of the bass you get from it.
     
  5. May 29, 2015 at 1:26 PM
    #5
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    Member:
    #38
    Messages:
    8,832
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2012 Rock Warrior 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    I will provide pics of the sub enclosure behind the seat this weekend.
    As far as sound i haven't messed with it much yet. Sounds decent so far though.

    If you didn't see the other thread yet, the base knob doesn't work. Ill try a different cord this weekend but right now no light and no adjustment.
     
  6. May 29, 2015 at 1:30 PM
    #6
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck New Member

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    Texas
    I saw that just now. That really stinks.
     
  7. May 29, 2015 at 3:44 PM
    #7
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

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    Engineers and your perfect design cuts...
     
  8. May 1, 2016 at 6:41 PM
    #8
    montej23

    montej23 New Member

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    Nice work
     
  9. Nov 16, 2016 at 5:58 AM
    #9
    markiemark9

    markiemark9 New Member

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    Mark
    Omaha, NE
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tundra SR5 Double Cab
    RC 3/1 Leveling Kit, Blacked-out badges, weathertech floor liners, low-profile toolbox, paracord wrapped grab handles, 33" Toyo Open Country M/T Tires
    Is your pickup a crewmax or doublecab? Trying to replicate this in my DC and need some measurements for the box to fit behind my rear seats.
     
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