Installed Kings - WTF!? Lower ball joints?

Wow this turned heated, OP is the one who should be pissed, not any of us.

The cap shouldn't spin, charged or not. We know it needs charge since he can hear fluid slosh, that tells you there is no pressure. Even if he pumps it with air to trouble shoot what we have already deduced it sounds like hes out of luck on getting a proper charge. I know a lot of shops refuse to charge a shock unless they rebuilt it, I've been through that and you can imagine why. I wouldn't be shocked (yeah I said it) if he has a bad seal.

The lack of gas is only part of the trouble, I'm still wondering why your axles are so close to the lower mount. Although some have had success with those top shims I would ditch them. They may be changing the angle of the shock by effectively lowering the upper mount where the eyelet bolts in.

Curious do you have any confirmation on the part number of these coilovers?

 

Dis you not watch the video? No pressure the cap will spin that is normal. Also the axle was close to the coil because he hadn't done an alignment. My axles rub at full lock but I don't have steering stops. And the lower mount is normal to touch at full droop. Back when Fox made the KORE that was part of the install to grind that pocket out. So the shims may be the cause but not hurting anything now that it's done.
But then what do I know??

 

Nope, not watching a shock get charged bud, isn't new to me. When I took my Fox apart that end cap didn't spin. It took effort to push it in to get the clip out, it was snug. Maybe they're different or maybe I had more miles but it did not spin.

I saw alignment results and somebody commented it could have been better. He got aligned right?

 

There ya go

 

There is nothing holding that cap other than the clip and nitrogen pressure so it will spin all day long with no pressure against the clip. Yeah he got the axle coil spacing resolved the lower cup contact is probably due to the shims pushing it down further on droop.

 

Naww I like wasting your time.

 

Pretty sure he is referring to removing the shaft spacers, not longer shafts. He beat the snot out of them driving them as is, my point is even if fine, it won’t be the same as the brand new shock on the other side longevity wise.

I had to grind the pockets on my et Fox coilovers 2 months ago, still the same and no big deal. You and I will disagree about the shims, one might be fine, duplicates removing the shaft spacer yielding the et version of the coilover. Put 2 on like the op, and it’s dumb imo.. Your advice and knowledge is appreciated, dont stop. People listen.

 

Here’s a pic of the box!

 

So King said apparently the aftermarket upper arms create more downward travel, which the model of Kings I have aren’t rated for. He said there’s two models, one for aftermarket a-arms and the other for stock arms.

 

Not saying I approve of the shims just that is probably why the shocks are making contact with the cup at full droop. It is an issue caused adding those and not a problem with the shocks. Removing the internal spacer won't cause any issue like you said but changing to longer shafts or longer ends could cause the shock to bottom before the bumpstop. Its up to the OP if he wants to return them but I don't thing there was any permanent damage but if he has the time and energy then return it but I bet they just charge it and send it back. Maybe they will pull it apart and add new seals. Or hopefully they send a brand new one. I would put a little sharpie mark somewhere just to see if they send the same one back.

 

I’m going to try more places tomorrow first thing AM. I have a buddy that races down in Baja and he gave me some more names of possible places.
If that doesn’t work, I’m going to Airgas, buying a bottle of nitrogen - and hope they have an adapter to fill myself.
Then I’m going to launch Portland’s first nitrogen fill station LMAO.

 

It will cost ya a few hundred for a nitrogen setup with bottle, regulator and gauge. Here is my portable nitrogen setup.

 

Shocks dictate downward travel, the arms could care less. Your arms are just capable of more droop while staying in an acceptable alignment curve. King phone reps sound interesting...

 

You and me both, they're not cheap though.

 

Damn! That’s badass! In a Pelican too lol.

 

I’m betting it just needs nitrogen. But it being a brand new shock I would just send it in to King just to be sure you didn’t damage it, or it wasn’t damaged somehow before you bought it. Since you have another car to drive, might as well take care of it while it’s still under warranty. Same thing happened to me, except both my resis leaked. I could’ve just tried refilling with nitrogen but since they were brand new, I sent them in to be 100% sure. Good thing I did because it turned out I had a defective part and they would’ve failed again.

 

I'm with you here. first I heard about dedicated arms..sounds like rep BS

 

great info here minus the testosterone

 

The upper arms can allow more downward travel, the shock is limiting that. His version is meant for stock upper arms. There is another version of that coilover with "EXT" at the end of the part number , those are meant to be paired with aftermarket uppers to take advantage of the extra droop.

Not sure if it's the same with King but Icon used to offer conversion to the extended travel while doing rebuilds.

 

I don’t think it was 100% bs! Becuase if you order them from filthy Motorsports it allows you to select “ENTENDED TRAVEL” which that means you have a aftermarket UCA

 

EXT

 

So, charged the shocks with air - you can hear the leak.
N2 - is it easier to rebuild myself or send them back?

 

Is that an internal spacer?

 

Ps - leak is coming from resi

 

If they are new and you have never done it I would send them back and let King deal with it. Its a hassle but it wasn't right from the start and you shouldn't have to pay for anything. Or make them ship you a new one and pick up the other one. Plus you can have them modified for the EXT at the same time.

 

Should not have an effect on the location of the front CV's and half shafts. Just a vertical drop of 1.5 to 2" depending on the lift.

 

Okay, thanks for the input!
I’d have to send both shocks in for the EXT, which sucks - but if it’s best then I have to.
If I can run my model and be okay - I’d rather do that. What shitty timing - in the middle of hunting season.

 

What's your address. I'm sending you some beer.