Installed Kings - WTF!? Lower ball joints?

You can lose some caster on both sides, .5 degree will probably get you away from the front axle. Less toe if you adjust as well, .07 per side is good.

Don’t sweat the nitrogen, if low fill up be happy.

 

So Offroad shops do this service?
I’ve never had to “fill up” before lol.

 

No, I did not need to compress the coils when I turned the collar when I had my UCA separated from the spindle. I mentioned that if one does not have access to a spring compressor, (since barely out there fits) to separate the UCA and spindle to be able to turn the collar with ease because it relieves the tension from the coilovers.

Yeah I would say checking up on the caster also.

 

Yes, some tire shops can do it as well. Just make sure they are capable of the psi you require.

 

I tried to adjust the Kings on full droop (and on bench) and there was waaay too much pressure from the coils to the collar.
I understand separating them from the upper arm allows the coilover to extend to its full position, but it’s still under a lot of pressure and the coils need to be compressed to adjust collar.

 

Thanks!

 

Shims are fine, Diff drop is fine, you can adjust the collar without taking anything apart - I do it all the time but have to use two tools. Use a spanner wrench and a punch that fits the hole snug. Also I spray a little wd40 on the threads and spin it a full droop.
I suggested the Nitrogen pressure already and its the easiest thing to do - I have seen many with a clunk with Low pressure.
You can ask the tire shop to put at least 150psi and it should do the trick. If you don't have the correct chuck then you need a no loss shock gauge.

 

Awesome! Thanks!!

 

FFFFFAAWKK!!!.......no go on removing Diff Drop.
I’m mocked up, but don’t have stock bolts. Bolts I have are too long. Damnit.
Skid plate removed, still have clunk.

 

I think I’m just going to swap in stock coil to confirm King culprit vs factory issue.

 

Went for a drive with skidplate removed and clunk is still there (I knew it wasn't the culprit deep down, but a part of me was really hoping this was the case LOL).
I called around to 8 shops today - no Nitro gauge. I’m going to try Air-Gas tomorrow, and if they can’t measure, order my own gauge.
Unfortunately, I’m guessing if a Nitro fill is required, it will be down right impossible locally.

 

you put the stock suspension back in and still a clunk?

 

Should of went fox! Lol jk. Hope you figure it out. Your cam bolts are snug on the LCA?

 

Is there no atv motorcycle shop in town? They have to charge shocks and should have what is needed. Tire shop can do it too - they should be able to set the regulator at 150psi and hit it without a gauge. It doesn't have to be exact cause it will work anywhere from 100psi to 250 to confirm if that is the problem. I have set my compressor to 150 and charged mine with air so I could get to the shop before I had my own nitrogen. Then just release the air and charge with nitrogen.

 

No, sorry. I didn't clarify I was hoping it was the skidplate - and it wasn't. LOL

 

It was a serious debate for me LOL. Yea, I double checked cam bolts before, and after alignment.

 

I was getting ready to remove my diff drop a few weeks ago and realized I had no idea where I put my stock bolts too. Anyways, I would really try the nitrogen first before trying anything else. Could turn out to be a really easy fix.

 

So this is a long shot, because it looks like your resi's don't interfere like mine did.....but I'll mention it just in case.

I had a clunking/popping noise on my ADS setup - passenger side that I tracked down for quite a while. Here is the thread, including where I found the cause of the problem:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-noise-help-me-brainstorm.25846/

Basically, my reservoir had moved forward slightly and was rubbing on the inner fender liner. I never thought to look there, because it didn't seem like that would cause a "clunk" or "pop" like I was hearing. But, moving it fixed the problem.

Like I said, looking at the King setup, I doubt this is the problem - your resi's look shorter than mine and I doubt that they are close to interfering. But, thought I would mention it.

Good luck, man. I know how frustrating stuff like this can be.

 

Yea there is, and they don't have a gauge LOL. I called Airgas and they don't either.
One 4x4 shop said they have a gauge in their race-truck off-site. They didn't sound too enthused about finding it and left me on hold for 20 minutes.

I just called SDHQ off-road and spoke to a tech. He said either coil/parts are making contact or a possible arm bushing/lower BJ failure. I wiggled the shit out of the tire/wheel and lower BJ seems fine. I told the tech that prior to the King install, the TRD coils/spacer was a smooth ride without issue. He said that the stock parts (arm/lower BJ) could have still been worn decently and not shown any signs. The Kings put more pressure/stress on those components and now they are showing their ugly ass head.

 

At this point - I'm looking for everything to try! My resi was REALLY close to the washer bottle, and I will move it back more! LOL

 

I told u to send them to me but u didn’t listen lol jk buddy hope u get it all worked out

 

You don't need a gauge to get close and find out if thats the problem or not. Every nitrogen setup has a regulator because they put 2200 psi in the bottle and you can't use that pressure so the regulator keeps it at a pressure that is usable. Set the regulator to 180psi (its a knob and all they have to do it turn it till it reads 180psi) and then charge the resi- If it turns out that its off by 20-50psi you are still in a good range. Just ask if they can charge your coilover with nitrogen, not if they have a gauge or not. You can't use a regular tire gauge to check it after its charged otherwise you lose pressure - Its not the same as a tire. Takes like 10 seconds.

 

costco has nitrogen if you have one close by.

 

I called two - they won’t use it on shocks - only tires!

 

Okay - so I went to move the reservoir back, and noticed it was Really hot!
I checked my driver side - nowhere near as hot! I think that’s a good sign! LOL
Also, is the fitting for that goes into the reservoir supposed to spin freely?
I’m pointing at where it spins

 

Video!
https://youtu.be/Asto9H74zGo

 

I’m duck-taping my Fing iPhone to the Icon arm and doing a video LOL.

 

You got to do what you Gotta do! If you don’t have insurance on the phone call and add it now LOL

 

LOL! I’m getting the new XR in a few weeks so said F it
So, made 3 videos - and don’t have the best roads around here to duplicate the sound. That sucks.

 

Does it make any sense that one shock is consistent hotter than the other?
I’m praying it’s nitrogen.
Waiting for a call back from another shop if they can fill them.
Is it the same as when filling tires?