Install complete on additional transmission cooler

Oops, thought he had the 5.7. The rest of the procedure should be the same.

 

He does have the 5.7L, but he's been using 115-135 degrees as the level setting temp range. I don't know if that temp range right for any transmission. I thought you were trying to let him know his level setting temp range in error. The 5.7L (AB60) level setting temp range is 99-111 degrees F as in the procedure you posted. The 4.6L (A760) level setting procedure is the same except the temp range is 127-138 degrees F.

 

https://tundraheadquarters.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/tundra-transmission-fluid-flush-tsb.pdf

this is the one I had gone off of in the past, could be wrong? My truck is a 5.7L SC with a A60F I’m pretty sure

 

Huh. Strange that the 2007 TSB makes no distinction between transmissions. Is it correct that 2007 Tundras came with the 4.0L V6 (A750 five speed transmission) and the 5.7L (AB60 six speed transmission), and the TSB is telling you to set the level the same?

Procedure posted by @Ruggybuggy from the 2015 Repair Manual for 5.7L with AB60E/F transmission. I'm thinking that might have superceded that TSB if the TSB is really attempting to cover all 2007 transmissions. We need access to Techstream for the definitive answer.

 

Good point if it’s the same trans, I’ll just go with the 111F range & see if it matters.

 

Thanks for the clarification. I was confused.

The procedure is basically the same for all Toyota transmissions and I knew the temps were different between models. They came out with a new method of setting the level a couple of years that eliminated the need to have the transmission at an exact temp when setting the level. It's more accurate and easier to do but requires the use of some specialized tools. The Tundra still uses the method we are familiar with but all of the new models use the new method.

 

Well, at 99-111 degs, you'll actually have more fluid in the transmission than when setting the fluid level at 115-133 degrees. It's a little backwards to think about, but the fluid actually expands as the temperature increases. This means if fluid is overflowing the level check stand-pipe at 99 degrees, it will continue overflowing as it increases to 115 degrees. If you stop the overflow at 99 degrees, there will be more fluid in the transmission when it's cold, than if you wait to stop the overflow at 115 degrees. Clear as mud, now?...yeah, I thought it might be.

 

So I got the o-rings for the thermostat & the warmer & a few qt’s of WS. That I hope I don’t need.

 

don’t know if you have access to a dealer manual, I say because them torque settings are hard to find otherwise. Anyway, is they’re a temp that I should pull the thermostat/heater, should it have the pin in ?

 

Those torques from Toyota's 2015 Tundra Repair Manual. The transmissions are still the same present day. No, you install the pin and leave it in place until the level adjustment procedure is complete. The idea is to include the cooler volume in the level setting process.

 

You can confirm your transmission from the white data placard on the driver door jamb. The top line of the placard will say "MFD by: Toyota Motor Manufacturing, Texas, Inc.". The bottom line of the placard will have the transmission model number about three fields in. This assumes that your truck still has the same transmission it came with.

 

I just realized I never gave you the thermostat to case bolt torque. Those are 15 ft-lbf (180 inch-pounds). You'll have to estimate the same way as before, or about 45 pounds of force at 4" on your wrench.

 

John Everything was dead on! The torque was perfect (I know it’s important cause I cranked down a week or so a go & the leaks got worst). I got a digital summit tools torque wrench and it worked perfect. Lost minimal fluid like u said a few oz’s. The original o-rings felt like hard plastic (all 4) and the new ones cured the leak. 1 last question, is the hex opening fluid check hole have a rubber tube or something that could have come off? I ask cause I got it to 111F and went to add back the 4oz I lost and the fluid came out in a steady stream as if the truck was off and the pan was full? I added a quart being that was the total that I lost but does the truck need to be in temp mode even if I have a trans temp gauge and can see the exact temp?

 

What are you using for a temp guage. Follow the instructions on this video.
https://youtu.be/5DLkja6vXvc

 

I have my bullydog & a snap on gauge(borrowed).

 

Then your good to go using the pan temp. Add a quart of WS fluid to the fill port. When the truck is cold with the ignition on jump terminals 4 and 13 on the DLC.


Start the engine and let it idle. Move the shifter through all the gears then move the shift quickly from D to N until the D on the instrument cluster stays on for two seconds. This puts the transmission in fluid detection mode. If you can't get it to fluid detection mode, no worries, you can still proceed. Watch the temp on your gauge making sure your reading the pan temp. Wait until it reads 99F then go under the truck (truck running) and open the fluid check plug. Allow the fluid to run out until the fluid starts to dribble and climb the oil pan. Replace the plug and check your gauge and make sure you haven't exceeded 111F.

When you doing the procedure make sure the truck is level and the parking brake is set.

Forgot to add, do the procedure with the thermostat pin installed and remember to remove it after you have set the level.