If it's not rail rust, what the 'H' is it?

You'd be surprised how far some of those metal flakes travel. I used to do a lot more fabrication work than I do now and made sure all the vehicles were moved out of the way.

 

It's clearly time to bring in Bill Nye "the science guy " to solve this. (climate change????)

 

I'm happy to report that Sunday, after 3 1/2 hours and a slightly sunburned bald-ing spot, it appears to be all gone.
Rinsed, dried, Iron-X'd again, washed, Nanoskin'd, rinsed, dried, and finally hit with a light spray wax because I was too tired to be rubbing the liquid wax. I see no more rust spots.
I'm hoping to get after it this weekend with the liquid wax, but if not, I'll keep up with the spray wax and watch what happens.
I still don't know where it came from, but if it returns I'm guessing it isn't "rail rust".

 

It is definitely rail dust and is cuased by brakes. All white tundras get it. I have a DC 2014 and sc 2014 and both have it. I don't care to clay bar or compound the new truck as it it by nature does remove paint. I did a chemical spray like iron x and sealed it with menerza . they come back you have to due the process at least twice a year especially in north nj. Once just before first snow and in spring. It is a big problem with this paint for some reason. Never had it on my fords. Or any other white truck. It does happen to grey paint too!!!!!! My friend bought a used 2013 and if you look very close you could see them starting. Keep up with the washing and waxing is my recommendation

 

I believe it probably does we are just anal here

 

Not just toyotas friends dodge has it. But that is one thing I bitch about on these trucks..... Paint paint paint. It's not very tuff

 

Just hit it with some Claybar and done with it. This is a normal phenomenon with anything. I have noticed this for years on all of my vehicles the white just shows it more. I Claybar my vehicle at least once a year sometimes twice, afterwords I may polish it and at least seal it with some wax on top of that. It's not that hard guys.

 

What kind of shit job do you do? Takes me a full day to detail my truck. Especial with ironx, polish and wax. Don't forget the tires ,Windows , interior ect. We aren't talking bout corolla's or civic's or bringing it to a place that will put more blemishes init than take out. Rather not use clay bar or polish a brand new truck or car . you are taking of mjnute amount of paint each time. plus I can not help to believe that all those little piece s of metal that stick to the clay bar are not going to scratch he truck as you go over other areas. I would go with something like iron x and then seal it . I have never notice this on my white ford e350 or ranger.

 

Like I said basically 3 1/2 hours to wash truck.

 

just basically to wash truck and get rid of spot's

 

All my cars and trucks always looked immaculate. And Lee, are you asking me what kind of shit job do I do? I don't know if you got something out of me taking care of my vehicle that I do some type of shit job, if you are speaking to me. I live in California near refinery and a freeway. It does get spots on mine even though I regularly wash and wax it.

When I brought mine home from the dealer I could find small little specs that would not wash out without really scrubbing at it if at all. The Claybar is very gentle. I think polish is a lot more rough on it . And in the right light I could see scratches from the factory or the dealer wash dude. I just took the time when I bought it to clay it, buff out any small imperfections. Glaze it, seal it, wax it. I have been taking care of my own vehicle since before I could even drive them. I have always gotten many compliments on how well my vehicles hold up compared to everybody else's, I think I'm doing something very right, not shit.

 

And for the record any professional car detailer will recommend a clay bar. When you go over an area and finish, you roll and massage the bar. I use the clay spray lube also.

 

When you say its not that hard to wash these trucks I have to question the job you are doing. Just wash and dry the truck takes and hour. Now let's say you clay bar the truck as well add another hour. Now there is no wax on the truck. Even a qucik spray wax job is an hour. Windows and tires another hour. And for me this would be a rush job. You make sound like we are lazy. " just hit it with claybar and be done with it". Wish it was that simple. I am glad to see you maintain your truck and take pride in it. I do as well but you make it sound like everyone else here is a whiney bi*** . tell you what, if it is that easy you can detail my truck for free three times a year. Why fold clay bar? Keep the shit from scratcing your paint eventuality the imperfections the clay bar catchs. Would also scratch it. I would never bring my truck to the dealer to do this either or a detail shop I see the people who do the work at some of those places.

 

Not to mention I have 2 2014 tundras. Takes forever to do both

 

. I to take care of my vehicles.

 

I'm just seeing people use all these products to get out these whatever rust stains they are. I have just had very good experiences with clay. You make it sound like I am clay baring my truck constantly. I just want a really good surface before I put any sealant down.

Look bro you're reading way too much into my initial comment. I'm not saying it's fast, I'm saying it is not that difficult to clay-bar your vehicle, it's not some outlandish suggestion, it just plain works.
My wife knows when it is time to wash any of our vehicles that there is going to be some time spent outside and to pretty much leave me alone. She even asks if it is just a wash, (consisting of wash. starting at the top, using a rinse bucket and working my way to the bottom, spray wax outside of vehicle, rims, tires, windows and always dusting off the interior) which she knows will only take a 2-3 hours. Medium detail, which is pretty much all of the above but with hand wax. 3 to 5 hours. And of course the full-blown, which is not too often and not usually the full vehicle but just the top edges of everything that I clay bar if needed sealant etc.

Sorry if I came off belittling people but as we all know this is in written form and hard to judge somebody's tone.
Maybe I'm missing something and should try out that iron X stuff. Because I'm fairly positive that most of the contaminants I see that build up on people's bumpers and the flat surface of everything, is metal from brake dust. Therefore when the dew at night comes out, it causes it to stick to your paint and embed itself into the pores. It doesn't always come out just washing it with a wash mitt. I hate the stuff but it sticks and sometimes I have to deal with it and break out the clay bar.

 

Sorry I read into it to much. Your claybar definitely works And well. I just don't think it is as easy as you made it out. Maybe i miss took you tone. As for the iron x. That is a pain in the ass as well. I really don't think one is much better than the other. To me it is very time consuming to get rid of the rail dust before I even get to waxing the truck. . sorry for any miscommunication.