I want to start camping again. (The unintentional build)

Yup.
Middle of nowhere.

 

Check this video out. Just an idea for some material for weight savings, and it was surprisingly strong.

https://youtu.be/C-srsB0F6l8

 

That is pretty cool. The one thing I would’ve done differently is put corner protectors on. Those two upper corners mid tailgate are an accident waiting to happen. Ask me how I know this

 

oooh noooo oops

 

Yeah, sharp corners don't feel good and are great and tearing holes in stuff. I was less enamored with the design than the material. The fact that it held up just with the PVC glue with that guy pushing on it was pretty slick. I would definitely look into it if I were building anything for the back of the truck. Hell, if I go the trailer route I might look into it for building stuff for that.

 

Well shit. I signed up!
Thanks for sharing!

Hope that helps improve your odds

 

Sure thing! Even if I go a different route, I am sure I could sell it on the cheap to make a fellow forum member's day.

 

Well, I don't know how I missed this forever and ago in my searches, but there is a GFC thread on here. https://www.tundras.com/threads/go-fast-camper.23578/ I'll probably go through and necro tag everyone that has one or ordered it to see what all the pros and cons are.

 

Fun bit of info for iKamper tents. Don't know if this applies to others, but @BayRunner you may want ask the hacks at RN if you think they'll bother to reply. You had some leaking issues prior, didn't you?

 

@AzureNightmare Even with all the RN shortcomings, they actually use decent material in their tents. They do use “canvas” (poly - cotton blend) just like iKamper. My water intrusion was not caused by the material but rather by the design.

Some genius thought it would be a good idea to sew a clear vinyl window on the top of the rainfly/roof. While this may sound great in a marketing brochure, real world application is not practical. I work in the marine industry and am very familiar with boat canvas sewing., There is a certain way to sew clear vinyl windows in canvas In order to make it water proof. RN mistakes are:

• They sewed a window on a relatively flat roof thus creating weak points for water to seep through.
• They cut corners and did not sew the clear vinyl window correctly. The incorrect sewing allows water to easily seep through the sewing holes.

 

Someone need a pallet?

 

I really like the idea of using this material, but I'm going against the box style , because it limits the use of my bed area. I like the Totes packed and ready to go, so I can move around if needed. I built a shelf on 1 side for batt. and floor jack underneath and hitch attachments on other end. Max tracks mounted up front , with x-tra 5gal gas, and fire extinguisher at tailgate. I have 2- totes 1- cooking and misc, 1- clothes and sleeping bags and misc. and a Yeti cooler. All can be removed at end of trip and put back for next one. only thing that stays would be cots folded up against sides. Thanks for video , great ideas, and new material.

 

So during one of my research analysis paralysis points of my life I did a lot of research on putting a RTT on my utility trailer. Have since sold all my dirt bikes. It can be done and it may be an option for you.





An then there is always this option...

 

Im the same way and use totes as well. Easy portability. I can understand in their case where a GFC is more of a permanent install and totes in their setup really would not make much a difference.

 

the places you could go with a rtt on a sxs would be unreal.

 

I see these around our area.

 

After following this, and looking at things myself a bit, I've leaned pretty heavily away from the RTT option. While I like the concept of always having your sleeping arrangements with you on your rack, the idea of breaking camp just to go somewhere during the day looks like a pain. And there's the wear and tear of that thing being buffeted by wind and weather all the time that it is on your rack. And the loss of other utility of the rack (or the bed) with the thing in the way (I hauled gravel today and would have had to pull the rack or the RTT to do it - instead, it took me 5 minutes to pull my two rhino cross bars and then when I got to the quarry I opened the rolling cover and got loaded up).

Given I'm also a backpacker and hiker, I think I'm gonna stick with my light weight and compact gear for now. Eventually, if I start doing more road trips, probably look at something like the Bean trailers (I don't have motorized toys I need to haul).

Just my observations and ideas after spending the past however long watching your process and reading from other people as well...

 

Oh for sure. It's not for everyone. If I had gravel and such to haul, or anything else, I would probably feel the same and be looking for a way to build a frame and put the RTT on my utility trailer above my RZR. Everyone has their own situation to consider. My RZR is the solution to the major drawback of having to fold up the tent to go anywhere, because it is street legal.

The PITA of set up and tear down to move each day is what steered me away from the more affordable softshell tents and toward the hardshells. They pop up and break down fast enough that I don't see it being an issue to roll out at any point.

I just quickly peeked at your build, quite nice, and specifically at the cross bars. You could put a RTT on those easily enough, and if you have a garage, or helping hands, you could still pop the tent off with the bars attached to it. People build lifts/platforms and a winch/ratchet strap/pulley set up in their garages to just lift the tents off and suck them up to the ceiling for storage. Not trying to convince you or anything, but wanting you to have the full picture of the capabilities. I know you are analytical and will consider all info, but if you already have a camping set up that works for you, why change it?

 

To an extent, but the breakdown to go somewhere during the day for a hard shell is minuscule. Sixty seconds and I’m ready to go and 60 seconds upon the return. So yea I see what your saying but it not that big a deal for me.

BTW, what is the load capacity of your Rhino cross bars? I’m contemplating either a cab roof rack or Thule cross bars to hold a couple of Roam boxes and a Waterport.

 

I didn't even think about the weight rating of the bars. I know it varies widely by brand and type. Some are so low I am puzzled as to why they are produced in the first place.

 

The Thule bars I’m contemplating hold 220 which may be enough to hold the Roam boxes and Waterport, but will be close. The roof rack can hold more but more permanent versus the portability of cross bars.

 

Yeah, I refuse to do a roof rack. Call me chickenshit, but after the thread on the victory 4x4 rack install and the damage to the airbags I just would not be willing to drill into my roof. Plus, I'm short, so I don't want it on the roof.

 

Most cross bars have a pretty underwhelming load rating. I think Rhino lists 220lbs for the vortex bars that I have - whether static or dynamic.

 

Ah, yeah you'd have to add another bar, unless you are a tiny man and sleep alone.

 

The roof rack I’m considering is the Spider no drill rack. It’s legit and can be removed if needed. I’ve researched the heck out of it and it’s a good rack without putting holes in your roof. One think that’s holding me back is when I put a 90” RTT on (Red Tail) and it overhangs the cab. Not sure it’s wise to rest the front of the tent on the roof rack with the bulk of the weight on the bed rack.

 

I would think that is a bad op. The bed of a body on frame truck flexes and moves independently of the cab section, so over washboards or even just dirt roads you could potentially be beating on that bar. Don't know if you'd do more damage to the RedTail, the rack, or the roof, by I would bet money it will cause damage somewhere.

 

Oh sure, burst my bubble. I was really leaning towards the Spider roof rack . Actually, I was thinking about that and wondered just how much flex would occur. With this in mind, considered risers on the bed rack so that the RTT sits about an inch over a cab roof rack.