I need information on a 3/2 leveling kit

KAX Leveling Lift Kit Fit for Tundra, 3" Front and 2" Rear Leveling Kit Fit for Tundra 2007-2020 2WD 4WD, Suspensions Front Struts Spacer LLK048

$75 KAX Leveling Lift Kit Fit for Tundra, 3" Front and 2" Rear Leveling Kit Fit for Toyota Tundra 2007-2021 2WD 4WD, Suspensions Front Struts Spacer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH7GS6P?_encoding=UTF8


I purchased this off Amazon
Was wondering if I need any other parts to go with this ?
Control arms and whatnot?
Please
Thanks in advanced

 

Really fast reply
Thanks
So is that upper control arms?
Not sure what exactly uppers are?

 

No off road stuff
Not 4x4
Only pavement hauling a trailer
So if I went with the spacer
You would recommend an upper arm spacer?
Would there be a benefit from changing the lower control arm along with

 

Good upper control arms are going to start around $700. SPC arms are popular and many of us have them. IMO, spending that kind of money on UCA's for a leveling kit is a waste of money. As @T-Rex266 said, get some coilovers. It will ride alot better and you will be happier. With lifting the rear, you will need some ABS brake line extension brackets.

 

Do you really trust or think a $100 lift/level is going to serve your truck well or even ride half decent?

In my opinion, you are better off keeping it stock and/or saving up to do it right.

Save your money.

 

While a spacer lift is certainly not the most elegant or quality choice, they do work and I suppose have a place with trucks not intended for offroad use. My neighbor has a spacer lift and 34s on his gen 2.5 and seems more than happy with his truck.

I think the tough part is regarding the 3" increase up front. That is the point where suspension arm and CV angles (4x4) are on the outside edge of their happy zone, and one has to start considering upper control arms, diff drops, center support mount drops, subframe drops etc. This obviously starts to add up, especially considering you started out wanting a lift that only costs $100

This is why you are receiving the good advice/responses to start out with a higher quality set-up if it's just going to snowball into $1000 anyway.

Many here on the site go the route of replacemetnt shocks with adjustable spring perch (Bilstein 5100's) to achieve a lift between 1-3" up front.

I went with the Eibach stage 2 as it comes with complete coilovers for up front and matching rear shock absorbers (no lift). They have a threaded spring perch to dial in exactly the lift you desire, and include new springs, top mount, and really beefy lower shock mounts, all assembled and ready to install. I didn't even have to break out my spring compressors.

I only lifted the front of my truck around 2", so I only needed an alignment to bring things back into spec. No UCAs, no drop brackets, and a little more piece of mind that I'm not putting too much extra stress on my truck.

 

If you’re only hauling a trailer on pavement I’d skip the 3/2 spacer lift and look at 5100s up front for 1-2” lift max and then an add-leaf plus maybe some airbags in the rear. New Coil overs upfront would certainly improve your ride but if you’re trying to save some $$ the 5100s will serve you just fine.

that 3/2 setup is just gonna be brutal.


Btw, how large/heavy of a trailer?

 

Update
I had the 3-2 Leveling kit and upper control arms installed by a custom shop
Parts cost 250
Paid the shop 550
Got the truck and it lasted 4 days
The power steering went out
Had it towed back to the shop
They said the rack and pinion went out on it
It will cost me 2500 to get it fixed
I feel that they did not connect the lines properly
And that they are at fault
Of course they did not take responsibility
They blame it on being an older truck 2010
And manufacturing defect

My question for you guys is
In order to install 3-2 level kit and upper arm controls
Do you need to disconnect and reconnect the power steering lines?

 

One does not have to mess with ANY of the PS system to install spacers and UCAs.

This is one of the reasons people install subframe/differential/mount drops when lifting over 2" up front. The extreme angles put extra stress on components, and can lead to premature failure.

I would also take the time to look at your rear brake lines to make sure they have enough slack. I have not lifted the rear of my truck, so I don't know WHEN it becomes a problem, just that one needs extensions at a certain point.

Definitely sorry to hear of your misfortune, but unless you see physical damage done to your PS components, I would not assume the shop did anything but install what you asked them to.

If you have any pictures of evidence, post them up!

 

Update
The rack and pinion was replaced
The shop that installed it assured me it was just because it's an older truck
Has been running smoothly since then

 

Thanks for all the responses