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Hub vs lug centric wheels

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by Samoan Thor, Jun 13, 2018.

  1. Jun 17, 2018 at 9:34 PM
    #31
    SCSPerformance

    SCSPerformance #teamstealth Vendor

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    Besides TRD wheels, we are the only other wheel company that has a dedicated line of wheels just for Toyota trucks/SUVs. With the Tundra's 110mm hub size, the centerbore of a hubcentric wheel should be 110.1mm which is what TRD and SCS specs out to be. And in case some of you guys aren't aware, the factory that we partnered up with also produces wheels for Toyota TRD.

    Other brands might double the use of their plastic center caps to take up most of the slack or use cheap plastic rings and call it hubcentric. The reason behind this is bc their wheels are made for universal fitment. Sort of like a one size fits all kind of hat. There would be too many different fitment options to offer to make them all hubcentric for the various GM, Ford, Dodge, Nissan, Jeep, and Toyota trucks.

    We wanted our wheels to fit like a nicely tailored suit hence why our first 4 wheel models were made only for Toyota. We've always liked what TRD had to offer, but their specs tended to be more on the conservative side which is understandable. Just like TRD, we wanted to offer true hubcentric wheels that was well designed, catered around the Toyota truck/SUV platform, and be able to offer a more aggressive spec for that perfect looking stance.
     
  2. Jun 17, 2018 at 10:48 PM
    #32
    n2deep

    n2deep Pavement Princess

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    Wish you guys made a 17in in 5x150 and under 28lbs
     
  3. Jun 18, 2018 at 7:55 AM
    #33
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor [OP] God is technically an alien

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  4. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:31 AM
    #34
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member

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    That's kind of what I always thought..........
     
  5. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:39 AM
    #35
    Big J

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    Yep not real sure now. Getting confused reading all this mess. Lol. :confused:
     
  6. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:57 AM
    #36
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Well its not like a Toyota engineer is going to to post all their research for us so we have a definitive answer.

    But I personally want a wheel that has a proper hub bore so my wheel has more support than just the lugs
     
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  7. Jun 18, 2018 at 3:39 PM
    #37
    BTBAKER

    BTBAKER THE AVS GOT SCREWED.

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    My XDs are hub centric.
     
  8. Jun 18, 2018 at 4:04 PM
    #38
    blizz86

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    call dustin @ fn wheels. he just made the six shooter (BFD in 17") with 25+ offset in 17 for our trucks. ask me how i know lol
     
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  9. Jun 18, 2018 at 5:14 PM
    #39
    Big J

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    How much lift did you have with those 17’s? Looks amazing!
     
  10. Jun 18, 2018 at 5:24 PM
    #40
    blizz86

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  11. Jun 18, 2018 at 5:50 PM
    #41
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    Never really cared bolt them on torque them and drive. When it comes to wheel spacers I think that’s more of a concern.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:44 PM
    #42
    KirthGersen

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    Many decades ago I installed some "old school" lug centric wheels that used straight shank lug nuts. It was impossible to perfectly center the wheels & they always had high speed vibration.
    IMO hub-centric is vastly superior and virtually all factory wheels are hub-centric.
    Conical seat lugs on lug-centric wheels should center the wheel fine, and if the wheel stud grade & quality is high, I personally wouldn't worry that the vehicle weight is mainly supported by the studs. Shear strength of a grade 8 chrome-moly studs is incredibly high & should be no problem for street & mild offroad driving. Cyclic lateral stresses & strain on the studs, due to under-torqued nuts will lead to failure regardless of whether its hub or lug centric.
     
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  13. Jun 19, 2018 at 6:16 AM
    #43
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    Similar to Weld racing wheels? My buddy has those on his 68 cougar. Straight shank style lug nuts.
     
  14. Jun 19, 2018 at 2:21 PM
    #44
    Ike74

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    black rhino also makes a 5x150 at a 110.1 bore
     
  15. Jun 20, 2018 at 4:03 AM
    #45
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Thanks, but I'm just contributing to the discussion. I'm happy with the rockwarrior wheels
     
  16. Jan 6, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #46
    r1-superstar

    r1-superstar Kailua Boy

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    Okay, I'll bite...I've always thought of HC rims for balancing rather than sturdiness. Am I missing something here? If the studs on the hub are perfect (as they should be from OEM), then a LC rim with proper lugs should be centered and balanced just fine.

    Well, that's the information I always thought correct since HC rims were made popular for racing vehicles and high speed. Our Tundras are land yachts and don't travel MUCH OVER 90-100MPH. LOL

    Thoughts?
     
  17. Jan 7, 2019 at 5:18 AM
    #47
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    No thoughts. I've pretty much said all that needs to be be said in this thread I think.
     
  18. Jun 14, 2019 at 2:07 PM
    #48
    Quicksand20

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    So are black rhinos Hub centric?
     
  19. Jun 15, 2019 at 1:56 PM
    #49
    SMK Shoe

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    Having the same vibration problem as some and was doing some research and found my fuel rims have a bore of 110.3 and tundra has a hub of 110. not sure the .3mm is a issue but no way to make a hub centric ring for that anyway. doing new rotors and pads with a tire rotation in the am. gonna measure the hubs and bores to ensure I have correct info. need to get this issue fixed. same vibration on two different sets and makes and sizes of tires.
     
  20. Jun 15, 2019 at 4:05 PM
    #50
    Spolar

    Spolar Going broke

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    The hub size isn’t your problem
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019 at 4:12 PM
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  21. Jun 15, 2019 at 4:39 PM
    #51
    SMK Shoe

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    That's what I think, but want to measure so I can rule it out. Going to also mount my old tires ( little life left ) to my stock rims and put them on to rule out any suspension problems. Just got to widdle down on this issue
     
  22. Jun 15, 2019 at 6:38 PM
    #52
    TheBeast

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    :D:D
     
  23. Jun 15, 2019 at 7:48 PM
    #53
    Samoan Thor

    Samoan Thor [OP] God is technically an alien

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    Im happy with my stock 20’s in the pic, hub centric but it’s sad they have better tire size options for larger wheels than smaller ones. Hopefully I can find some RW rims by the time I am ready to buy some 17” wheels or I’ll just go method or FN wheels.

    088CD8B7-4C3F-426B-8624-1FE431B8024D.jpg

    Using crawl control down a steep rocky hill

    598CD4A3-368E-43F9-B5E6-FD5311D27873.jpg
     
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  24. Jun 15, 2019 at 8:30 PM
    #54
    Hbjeff

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    Ive run LC wheels for more years than my OE ones. I recently switched back to OE and i like it better. LC wheels are just more finicky when tightening the lugs, you can do it properly, but im sure most shops just buzz them on and hope for the best. Hub centric is flat out better. Peace of mind knowing that the wheel is perfectly centered every time
     
  25. Jun 15, 2019 at 8:36 PM
    #55
    JMB

    JMB Not new, just a little old.

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    OK, mechanical diatribe coming. I am not an automotive engineer, but I am a mechanical engineer.

    Wheels transfer energy from the engine to the ground. There are many forces involved. The friction between the tires and the road is used to propel the vehicle forward. The hubs and the lugs transfer the forces, from the tires and ground, required for forward motion, transversely to the axles.
    The transfer of energy from the interface between the tires and the ground occurs at the wheel axle interface. The wheel/tire combination will will apply transverse loads to the studs and hub.

    I'm not exactly sure what hub centric means, but I do know that conical lug nuts will ensure even contact, meaning even loading in sheer, with all of the five studs.

    Closely toleranced clearance between the wheel and the hub will also transfer transverse loads to the hub/axle. As long as it is more than the deflection of the studs.

    Torque is only an indirect measurement of axial force in a mechanical joint. It only is impacted by side to side loads on the axles. It is also applied to prevent overloading of the compressed members, hence the difference between steel wheels and aluminum wheels. Positive assurance for a mechanical joint coming apart only comes from positive locking devices, such as lock wire or Loctite.

    If you under torque your lugs, you will probably have wobbly wheels or the lug nuts will fall off, depending on how loose you leave them. It could also result in a bending failure of your studs.

    Over torque will either break your studs or smash your rims.

    Bottom line is, use what rims you want, install in accordance with manufacture's directions. If it works, good. If it fails, pick something else.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019 at 8:56 PM
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  26. Jun 15, 2019 at 8:42 PM
    #56
    Hbjeff

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    Yes, I believe this is true if you tighten them in an alternating pattern a little at a time. I always did 45lb ft on all the lugs, then 97. Always in a star pattern. With no weight on the wheel
     
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  27. Jun 16, 2019 at 2:32 AM
    #57
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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    Hub centric is really just a redundant fail safe. I would chose that over the other if the option was offered. But if the torque that mechanically bonds the rim to the hub fails, or was done improper, it really won't matter which type you have.

    And once you torque the rim properly to the hub/rotor, the vehical isn't really resting on the hub. Its resting at the points of where the torque is applied.

    But again, of course I would go with the hc type over the lc type. Redundancy is a key aspect of safety. Even if its, well, redundant.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019 at 2:49 AM
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  28. Jun 16, 2019 at 12:05 PM
    #58
    SMK Shoe

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    As close as I could tell the Hub's on the fuel rims were the same within a mm or 2 of the hub on the wheel. From what I read it is .3mm difference. Hard to get calipers inside the rim. But doing a front to back rotation along with new rotors and pads. My wobble has gone away. One rim that was up front had no balance weights at all. What are the chances that three rims took between 2 and 4 ozs to balance but one took nothing OR the guy balancing the wheels missed doing one. Now to get my traction light to go out. Will have a different shop ( one next to work) rebalance the wheels to see if it was the problem. Wasn't happy the slop in the stock rotors. Lots of play when loose on the studs. gonna look into that further. this was before I popped it loose. Both fronts were this way and the backs not as bad but not centered.
    hub.jpg
     
  29. Jun 17, 2019 at 4:11 AM
    #59
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Your rotors are normal, they're all like that
     

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