How to turn off dashboard brake light?

I’m just started replacing brake parts. So far I started bleeding the load valve and then moved over to the PR side, where I replaced wheel cylinder, bell crank, shoes, drums and springs. I ran out of time to move over to the DR side to do the same, when after reinstalling the wheels to move the truck to another spot in my driveway, I realized the pedal feels super spongy and the dashboard brake light on. I think it’d because the reservoir went too low and triggered the alarm, but installed the scanner and it’s not picking up a code to clear. I still have to replace the bleeder screw on the load valve and will be rebleeding the whole system again. Plus I have the fronts to do with new hoses, calipers, etc. Does pulling the battery terminal clear it or will it clear on it’s own after I (hopefully) clear all the air out of the system?

 

It clears when your brake reservoir is refilled, it's not a code, at least I don't think so, but an indicator, like low oil pressure.

When mine came on, from accidentally draining the system while doing brakes, it simply went off as soon as I had everything refilled and bled.

 

This. Check and make sure the sensor is plugged in and that the reservoir is filled. Also can be triggered by a bad brake switch I believe. You wouldn't have brake lights and the shift interlock wouldn't work if it's the brake switch.

 

Yes, and it's a common enough problem it landed in the "Nuisances/Annoyances" section in reply #2 of the Megathread:

• E-Brake dash always on: Wear on the parking brake pedal shaft and pin may cause the parking brake light to stay on, more info here.

 

The reservoir is full now but I definitely have air in the lines. I still need to pull off the other three lines, so may have to bleed more than once. Everything worked normally before I bled this so I don’t think something would’ve coincidentally failed now. So am I assuming that once I get the air out and get normal pedal feels super spongy and braking, the light should turn off?

 

That was how it worked for me. I used to know why it wouldn't go out until the system was bled but it was like 4-5 years ago and I don't remember. All I know is that it came on when I accidentally left a brake line off and drained the reservoir, and then went out again once it was filled and bled again.

At the time it was the least of my worries, because until I fixed the parking brake I couldn't get the brakes to work very well at all and that led my down a whole path learning about the relation between the parking brake and the regular brakes.

 

I’ve spent so much time reading posts here and YouTube to get my head around the e-brake relationship to the drums working properly. I wasn’t expecting the light issue. Hopefully when the airs out, it will turn off!

 

On a side note, does anyone know the size of the LSPV bleeder screw? From searching around different places online, my guess is that it’s either a M7 x 1.0 or M8 x 1.0 x 32mm. I bought both and will be trying them out soon.

 

Just finished up the brakes on this old truck. The light turned off after bleeding the other drum cylinder. It was the air in the line that triggered the light. I didn't take photos of the rear brakes but after swapping out all the parts (Bell crank, wheel cylinder, springs, shoes and drums), bleeding and messing around with the E-brake cable and parts, the rears came out great. Definitely challenging compared to disks. I did the fronts today. I think it's well bled and will give it a few days for the pads to bed in. I moved the LSPV nut up a few threads too. Thanks everyone for all the help. Here is a photo of the fronts. I never figured out the LSPV breeder screw size so just cleaned up the old on the wire wheel and reinstalled it. I bought a M7x1.0 and M8x1.0 and neither fit. I thought for sure it was one of them. Oh well the old one still works.

 

I just looked in the EPC for my 2006 AC, which may or may not match the LSPV for your truck.

But the LSPV bleeder is showing as a $1.75 part (so around a buck if you order thru the Toyota Parts Program website for pickup at most dealers), and the part number is 47547-27030. The bleeder cap is 31478-30010, although at the price Toyota is asking, I'd just use a vacuum cap if I ever lost mine

The LSPV part number for my 2006 AC is 47910-34070.

Both of those links go directly to the TPP website. Verify fitment against your VIN before purchase, the LSPV had a manufacture start date of 2002, so it may have changed for later-year trucks. Consider updating to speed bleeders, I know Toyota sells OEM speed bleeder kits for our trucks, or at least they did at the time I got mine.

EDIT: Just wanted to say, the EPC shows my rear bleeders use a different bleeder, p/n and the front calipers use a different bleeder p/n. So three different bleeder p/n at play, although I suspect they'll all have the same threading.