1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

How to install a 5305v viper alarm pls

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Borricua, Jun 5, 2025 at 9:21 AM.

  1. Jun 5, 2025 at 9:21 AM
    #1
    Borricua

    Borricua [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Thursday
    Member:
    #136005
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Hector
    Vehicle:
    Extended cab
    None
    I need help figuring out how to install a 5305v viper alarm on my 2003 tundra also need to check if I have the right color wiring and place they are located. I would appreciate it. Thanks
     
  2. Jun 5, 2025 at 9:38 AM
    #2
    The Black Mamba

    The Black Mamba A pure specimen of TX Black Snek

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2023
    Member:
    #103472
    Messages:
    4,381
    First Name:
    Ryan
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    Black 00 SR5 AC 5VZ PreRunner
    Imma keep it stock
    We don't like aftermarket alarms here, as you'll read why in this thread So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh? | Toyota Tundra Forum

    Here is an excerpt from that thread:
    Electrical stuff ... and keys
    • Yes, adding factory power locks and power windows into a non-power truck is 100% possible. Ideally, get pre-loaded donor doors with door harness intact and door cards that match in color, and gut them for parts, or swap doors. It's plug and play.
    • No, adding a full DC one-piece sliding rear window is not a bolt-in experience for AC and RC owners, the DC cab rear is different from the AC/RC cab. It may be possible to install the 3pc AC slider into a RC, since the cabs are similar dimensionally, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet.
    • A majority of these trucks came with keyless entry (at least). If you're having OEM or aftermarket alarm problems or and/or you're considering adding an aftermarket alarm, first check if you have an OEM unit (more info in next bullets), then consult this alarm flowchart to decide if it's necessary. Aftermarket alarms can be the devil, a problem waiting to happen. It doesn't matter how good the brand, most start to fail or glitch within 10-15 years. I used to install them for a living (Avital, Clifford FWIW) ... been there, done that. It's even worse with modern offerings, take this advice: Stick with OEM, if you can make it work.
    • For OEM keyless/security, earlier trucks used Toyota's RS3000 alarm/keyless system, which had a limit of 4 simultaneously programmed remotes, and providing no warnings if you wanted to program a 5th fob. Later models used the RS3200 system. RS3000 is a bitch to program. RS3200 is much easier, but some Double Cab and potentially Sequoia used immobilizer keys, and a different programming process than you may find elsewhere online. RS3000 and RS3200 remotes ARE NOT interchangeable. Manuals for the RS3000 and RS3200 systems can be found here, and the 'special' programming instructions for some Double Cab found here. Always enter programming mode to 'clear' all previously programmed remotes before trying to add new ones, so you don't hit the 4 remote control limit! You can absolutely program new remotes on your own, there's a thread about RS3000 units here (since it's so difficult but read the whole thread), RS3200 programming is here.
    • RS3000 remotes have an identified issue where the metal contact under the bottom will scrape through the PCB and produce weird results, including shorter range (more info). Just be aware of this. If you're having issues and battery doesn't solve it, crack open the transmitter and inspect the PCB.
    • RS3200 remotes can flake out with time, here is how to refurbish/validate one.
    • Some dealers, especially in the southwest, gratuitously installed aftermarket alarms from a company named "KARR" at a nice hefty 4-digit upcharge, even when vehicles had the OEM alarm/keyless system installed. These are a constant source of electrical woes for people and were often hackishly installed. The boxes for them are typically found zip-tied up under the steering column area, or shoved into kick panels
    • AC/RC trucks don't use transponder/chipped keys (immobilizer). Some later-model DC and Sequoias do. Just something to be aware of if you need to swap keys or can't start the truck.
    • These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water trails down harnesses into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics, pics), or the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics) it happens a LOT. Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.
    But if you are so inclined to install one, here is where you'll find the wiring diagram Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum
    I'd link the exact diagram you need, but you failed to provide us with the proper info on your truck, so you'll just have to go fishing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2025 at 9:43 AM
    ATBAV8 likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top