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How to add a new Amp to your 3rd Gen Tundra JBL Entune system

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by TundraTex, Mar 10, 2018.

  1. Mar 10, 2018 at 10:33 PM
    #1
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    A member started a thread discussing how he had an audio shop add an amplifier to his 2018 Tundra JBL Entune system.

    A lot of folks seemed interested in understanding how this was done. There seems to be some urban lore that no aftermarket amps can be added to a JBL system. This isn't exactly correct. It is true that you can't replace the Amp or the HU alone. If you replace one, you have to replace the other and if you keep one you have to keep the other. However, you can add an amp, processor, EQ etc, downstream of the JBL amp and improve your overall system sound while maintaining your OEM Head Unit. Your aftermarket amp will need to be able to handle high level audio inputs unless you also add an LOC or processor in-line.

    I went to the Toyota wiring diagrams and collected the information needed to add an amp. The information is in the original thread, but is spread across multiple posts. I thought I would combine the information here and title the thread more descriptively.

    Here's the information...


    DISCLAIMER!!!! I pulled this data from the Toyota drawings, but I have not verified it with an actual JBL system since I don't have one. Use at your own risk! Please let me know if anyone can confirm wire colors.


    EDIT: The original table left out the front R/L dash speakers and the rear door speakers. They are fed in parallel from the JBL with their associated tweeter feeds. The table has been updated.

    2018 TUNDRA JBL WIRES R1.jpg

    J142 is a 10-pin connector and mates with the 10-pin adapter in the Metra 70-1761 harness kit. J143 is a 12-pin connector. You can get a Y adapter from Crutchfield. It's part number is CAS-TLC. Cut one of the connectors out of the "Y" and you'll have an adapter harness.. These are the same connectors I used to do my non-JBL Audio Mod.

    To prepare your adapter harnesses see wiring diagram below: With the exception wire 1 and wire 5 of the 10-pin harness (J142), cut each wire in each adapter harnesses in the middle of the wire. AGAIN... DO NOT CUT Wire 1 and Wire 5 of J142. These wires are fed by 30 Amps (15 Amps each) of 12 VDC to power the OEM JBL Amplifier.

    The result will be two sets of half-harnesses that can be wired, plug-n-play, to your after-market audio chain without damaging your OEM harnesses.


    2018 JBLMOD SCHEM.jpg

    Here are a couple options for converting those cut harness wires into RCA plugs...

    Better Option
    RF RCA.jpg


    Cheaper Option
    RCA Adapter.jpg




    DISCLAIMER!!!! I pulled this data from the Toyota drawings, but I have not verified it with an actual JBL system since I don't have one. Use at your own risk! Please let me know if anyone can confirm wire colors.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2018
    Jai LI, Skippy, 1UPPER and 4 others like this.
  2. Mar 10, 2018 at 10:48 PM
    #2
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ My balls was hot Staff Member

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    Thanks Lou for doing this. :thumbsup:
     
    Pudge likes this.
  3. Mar 10, 2018 at 11:20 PM
    #3
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    Anytime. Hope it helps somebody.
     
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  4. Mar 11, 2018 at 3:43 AM
    #4
    Diverguy

    Diverguy Breathes under water

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    Windows tinted, window visors. Bedrug, led bedlights, Nfab nerf step bars, Lund toneau cover, Evo One remote start, BAMufflers 8"
    I'll be taking this info to my audio guy. Thanks so much for the info. The sound system is my only disapointment in going from my '13 to my '18
     
  5. Jun 27, 2018 at 11:34 AM
    #5
    Surfanarchist

    Surfanarchist New Member

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    I hope you can help me understand this. You have a ten pin and a 12 pin harness. For the ten pin I would need a Metra 70-1761 and a Metra 71-1761. That takes care of both sides of the 10 pin harness (inputs and outputs). Then I need one CAS-TLC, cut off one of the Y'd connectors, and then cut all the wires in between the male and female remaining connector with the exception on 1 and 5 (power connectors). Is that about it?

    Thanks,

    Wayne
     
  6. Jun 27, 2018 at 12:27 PM
    #6
    Cfincke

    Cfincke Mall Crawler but capable

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    @TundraTex there is now a way to remove the JBL amp while keeping the stock headunit. About 4 weeks ago I installed a Rockford Fostgate DSR1 with a idatalink TO3 cable. I had to do all the software and firmware updates to the DSR1, but it now supports certain toyotas, including the Tundra JBL model. The TO3 cable was plug and play between the factory harness connectors and the DSR1.

    Factory Head unit --> DSR1 --> JL amps --> speakers

    I still have voice command, turn by turn navigation, volume knob works, bluetooth works. The only thing that I have noticed that I lost is the front to back and left to right balancing in the head unit and treble/bass gain, but I can set speaker distances and control gain for each speaker thru the DSR1. The DSR1 can be controlled from my phone or tablet.

    Before the DSR1 I did have the factory app that feed to a JL Fix86 then to my JL amps.
     
    1UPPER and TundraTex [OP] like this.
  7. Jun 27, 2018 at 12:34 PM
    #7
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 What's a Dickfir?

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    This needs to be a sticky

    @T-Rex266 Can you make it happen?
     
  8. Jun 27, 2018 at 12:45 PM
    #8
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 T-Rex Staff Member

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  9. Jun 27, 2018 at 1:19 PM
    #9
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    Wayne, Pins 1 and 5 in the 10-Pin (Metra adapter) are the ones you want to leave intact. The 12-pin (CAS-TLC) is cut in half on every wire. (pins 6,7,8, and 11 on the 12-pin are not used after this).

    Keep in mind that this will give you 7 audio channels as follows: (TWL, TWR, CTR, WFL, WFR, RL, RR). Personally, I would use a 4-channel amp and leave the CTR intact (i.e. don't cut Pins 4 and 10 of the 12-pin). Then use crossovers to Drive the combined WFL/TWL with the Amp's Front Left channel, combined WFR/TWR with the Front Right Channel, RL with the Amp Rear Left, and RR with the Amp Rear Right.
     
  10. Jun 27, 2018 at 1:49 PM
    #10
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    I was just reading about this last week! I have found two options so far. The DSR1 with an amp of your choice will work, like you used. Or you can get the Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP which is a 6-channel amp with built-in DSP. Add an iDatalink Maestro AR Module and T03-cable, and you're all set! I've heard there are also some Audison amps that are also iDatalink compatible.
     
  11. Jun 28, 2018 at 5:35 AM
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    Surfanarchist

    Surfanarchist New Member

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    Thanks for the clarification. I had the adapters backwards. So you are saying drive all the front speakers, door and in the dash, on one left and one right front channel. Would it hurt to just get a six channel amp and keep them all separate?

    Finally, what Metra adaptor are you using? I don't see one anywhere that has the J142 and P142 ends but I did find two separate wire harnesses, A Metra 71-1761 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029X1KA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and a Metra 70-1761 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This gives me both ends but I'll need to solder the 1 and 5 wires.

    If you know of a single harness that has both the J and P ends I'd love to know about it.

    Thanks,

    Wayne
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2018
    TundraTex [OP] likes this.
  12. Jun 28, 2018 at 8:13 PM
    #12
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    Wayne,

    You’re absolutely right. You need both those Metra harnesses for the JBL mod. With non JBL you just need the 70-1761 Harness.

    I’m not aware of anyone who sells the end to end Harness.

    And yes, you could use a six channel amp and leave the Center speaker connected to the JBL.
     
  13. Aug 18, 2018 at 5:46 PM
    #13
    Rand7777

    Rand7777 New Member

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    TundraTex... from What I understand you only need to convert the sub wires to rca and no need for a LOC to plug straight into a sub amp?
     
  14. Aug 20, 2018 at 2:28 PM
    #14
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    That's true for all the JBL Amp output channels. If you dont want to add an aftermarket amp, simply add the connector of choice for the speaker of choice and press on.
     
  15. Sep 3, 2018 at 7:31 PM
    #15
    DarthMurdicide

    DarthMurdicide Executive Redneck

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    If I were to use the subwoofer +\- wires from the factory JBL DSP/amp to create an RCA out to plug into a new JL Audio amp powering a new JL Audio Stealthbox, replacing the factory JBL 8” subwoofer/amp combo unit, does anyone know the frequency range of the signal coming through the +\- wires from the factory JBL DSP/amp to the factory JBL sub/amp combo unit?
     
  16. Sep 7, 2018 at 8:39 AM
    #16
    TundraTex

    TundraTex [OP] Get your FRAC on!

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    Most Sub-woofers are designed for roughly 20 – 200 Hz frequency response. I don’t know the specific range of the Toyota sub, but it’s probably in that range. Your replacement approach seems like it would work electrically.

    The concern I would have is that if you just replace the sub, you’ll have way more low bass performance than mid and high freq performance (from the factory speakers/amp) and it may reduce the overall sound quality by making it too muddy sounding.
     
  17. Sep 8, 2018 at 3:31 PM
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    DarthMurdicide

    DarthMurdicide Executive Redneck

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    Thanks Lou. I think I may eventually get the Phoenix Android Head Unit, or a similar Android HU with the Maestro, for it looks like people are reporting better sound with their JBL systems by getting enhanced EQ control in a new HU. For now though, I think I'll get the JL Audio Stealth Box and a JL Audio 1K watt amp, and tinker with the gain on the amp and the remote bass control, so the bass isn't too overwhelming. I mostly listen to tunes from my iPhone, and I've been running all of my mp3's through Audacity's amplification, which has actually made the highs an mids sound a helluva lot better with the JBL system. Now I'll add some bass with the subs and the amp.
     
  18. Sep 13, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #18
    Korruptor

    Korruptor New Member

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    I think I'm going to try the DSR1 and an aftermarket 5ch amp to start. Has anyone else done this yet. I stopped at a local audio shop and I knew what they would say before I went in, but still. They said I would destroy the stock speakers. He then went on to quote me $3,000 worth of equipment! My point is I'll try this first and if I destroy the stockers then I'll replace them.
     
  19. Sep 19, 2018 at 12:11 AM
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    1BlinkGone

    1BlinkGone New Member

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    There is an age old-paranoia about amps that are rated for more wattage that a speaker's rating. The truth is, an underpowered amp will kill speakers much, much faster than a clean(low harmonic distortion) amplifier that is rated at a higher output than the speakers. Having said that, being non-judicious with your volume knob with a real powerful amp rated much higher than the speaker will also do ugly things if you are too carefree of the speaker's limitations...
     
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