How much sound deadening for doors? (Inside & out?)

I would alsoo consider Cascade audio engineering.
http://www.cascadeaudio.com/
The v-blok products are for mobile applications

It can be pricey but well worth it. They have products for every facet of sound /noise/vibration/heat control.
I did everything inside and out of all doors, from the bottom of the windshield, the whole firewall, all the floors, all pillars, all the way up to the rear window and my truck is an absolute tomb.

Don't forget to treat the door panels as well. They are plastic and if left untreated, they will rattle.

 

This is something I need to do. Sound deadening the doors themselves helped with a lot of the rattles but the cheap fasteners in the door panels still rattle like hell at certain frequencies.

 

*BrakeDust orders a 4th box*

 

I think I overdid my doors.
If I had it to do over again, I would Dynamat the exterior skin and do a layer of Dynaliner over the interior skin under the door panel.
With even the slightest touch these doors slam because they are SO DAMN HEAVY.





No regrets on the rear wall and floor...

 

For the door panel clips use Resonix Rope around the plastic fastener.

 

Wow. Seems like some of you all are using a ton of extra material for the doors. Or I am really under estimating the size of the doors.
I did my rear floor, rear wall inside, outside, and the rear wall panel completely separate and I used one 18 square foot box and one sheet from the 2nd 18 square foot box. I am just not visualizing how a single door is going to take 15-20 square feet.
This is the first time I have done such a thing so maybe I did a crap job. Just need a chance to get the doors done. The rear wall and floor alone made a huge difference.

 

That looks great! Very tidy work.

What's involved in opening up the back of the cabin? I've had my seats out before but didn't pay attention to what's back there. Any carpeting to cut or is there just a loose shroud hanging over the metal?

I'm still waiting to start my install but I can totally see using 18 sq ft per door. One square yard = 9 sq ft. One square yard per surface, two per door.

 

It is simple. Pop the seats out, remove the weather strip around the doors to pop out the C pillars if you want to get the material behind the pillar (not sure really how much added benefit that actually gets but is easy enough to remove), then the carpet just folds back you can see it standing up there in the last picture I tied it up to the front head rests.
The panel is a bunch of 10mm (if memory serves correct) bolts.

Hardest part is the inside back wall because you have all the rails, tracks, and supports for the back glass. Just have to work the larger pieces back there carefully.
For $30 in material and took me about 4 hours as I had my 7 year old helping/learning (which usually adds a fair amount time compared to just me doing it but teaching my boy skills and spending time with him is well worth it).
I will do a full system someday when funds allow but for now I just straight swapped an 8” Alpine sub into the factory enclosure (needed a 1” spacer) but just adding the sound deadener to the back and the sun really changed the dynamics of the JBL system. Can’t wait to get a chance to get the doors done.

 

Thanks for the pics Black!

I swear this forum has been hard on my wallet.

Good video on the Crewmax back wall process:
(However... I don't think I'd cover up the access panel, I'd still apply the mat but as a separate step and leave the bolts and outline exposed)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udp-tmx0Hus

 

I just ordered this same kit from Taylors Audio and have the killmat already to go. Thank you for posting pics, it is very helpful!!!

 

Outstanding pics and detail! Thank you!

 

I’m very pleased with my setup. All the doors and back wall done. Also inside the doors. My 3rd vehicle done. I had my C5 Z06 all done when I had it. Also now my 19 Z06 done. Makes a really big difference. Even in fiberglass cars. Lol.

 

I’m about to install some 8mil Kilmat in my truck. I’m wondering if most of the installs I’ve seen on here are total overkill.

I don’t think the idea is to cover every square inch of every panel of the cab, but rather to add mass that dampens resonance, and adding a couple 12” sheets to each panel dampens it sufficiently.

It seems that the information I’m finding on this stuff is all over the place. Many shops cover every square inch. But I’ve seen some install videos on YouTube from shops that stick a couple sheets on the inside of the outer door skins and a couple sheets on the inner door skin.

I need to do more research, but my hunch is that covering every square inch instead of simply adding some mass to each panel provides diminishing returns. Maybe I’ll not cover every square inch and see if I think it is sufficient.

 

What are you trying to do?

 

The idea is to add mass and dampen the vibrations. In theory, covering the entire panel would be better than just parts of it. You can do just parts and achieve similar results. Also depends on the panel. The back panel, floor, and pillars are generally pretty solid and won’t vibrate//resonate much. Not saying you can’t make improvements, but these are areas I wouldn’t do as much. Inner and outer door skins and the roof on the other hand definitely will vibrate and could use more coverage.

Also depends on what you are trying to achieve. Just dampen some errant rattles or going for a fully enclosed cab that will pop your ears when you slam a door?

 

I don’t have any rattles or interior sounds in my truck. I just want less road noise. I definitely do not want my ears to pop. Just a quieter cab. More clarity from the radio at lower volumes.

 

To eliminate road noise you need to add MLV.

 

Raamaudio had a dense cell foam you would lay over the mlv. Stuff worked great. There are multiple ways to attack noise depending on what you are trying to do.

 

This. I did the whole nine: mlv, ccf, cld in my 2002. Spent over 40 hours doing it and added over 100 lbs to the truck. I definitely overdid the cld. With all that work, the truck has low resonances and it is quieter but it is a truck, not a lexus and I likely would not go through all that again. The only place where you will do well to put a lot of kilmat is on the interior door: cover up all the big holes, unlike a poster way above. This will turn the door into a leaky sealed box and improves the midbass. Otherwise, kilmat (cld) needs to only go on large flat panels. It really doesnt block noise at all. MLV is used for that and it is a pain in the rear to install.

 

The current "best" CLD out right now according to some comparison tests is Resonix. Nick - the guy that owns the biz & designed the CLD says this:

"The next thing to consider is that larger pieces are better than smaller pieces, EVEN when they total to the same amount of coverage. The third thing to consider is that diminishing returns come in at around 25%-35% coverage, although the “stage 1” sound deadening package that I offer at the shop still includes up to 50%+ coverage on the outer door skins. More is always better, but diminishing returns do exist. "


https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/reference-information/


"

 

Resonix is not the best CLD. This product has not being tested by a lab. I like STP. They offer the best materials.

 

I think you're going to find a lot of different opinions on this. Some have merits, others are just silly. It also depends on what material your using. IMO, probably a controversial one, MLV is overrated for most car applications in general.

As far as the butyl type products go, you're correct, full coverage is typically overkill. In order to get an object to stop vibrating you have to add mass to it. That requires more energy to get it to resonate. Most applications would be fine with covering large and small flat areas with your butyl product. Areas with bent or creased metal requires significantly more energy to get it to resonate. Are you going to run a SPL system? Probably should just cover everything (Funny they actually concrete in their panels). However! There is a huge benefit to covering those gaping holes in our door panels and creating a mostly sealed box for the speaker doors. There are pro's and cons, you'll just have to decide what's best for you. Remember butyl products are for resonance though covering everything to stop road noise isn't their job.

Adding Closed Cell Foam or equivalent product after butyl in full coverage IS a good idea, for the most part. It's cost effective, and cuts down on road noise. They come with sticky backing and are easy to apply. You can even visit local carpet stores and pick up scrap flooring backer and stuff it behind the panels for decent effect. Again here, CCF products are cost effective, and effective at cutting down road noise, its worth the effort applying liberally.

Now on to the elephant in the room MLV. Before I get off on my personal opinion on MLV its a great product, it is backed by tons of research and works well. But a practical application in cars for the cost in my opinion its snake oil in the audio world unless you're in an SQL competition car that's parked and not moving. MLV does a wonderful job at completely blocking noise from a specific source. Tired of hearing your 37 mud tires roaring down the highway? Sure cover the fender liners and wheel wells, itll help a little bit. Someone up top mentioned rain on the roof, sure, throw it above the headliner and itll help isolating that to an extent. MLV is great for things that can be isolated. A wall in a room that can completely cover said wall. Making a movie theater. Completely covering the walls in your master bedroom to have a sanctuary. All of these make sense because you can completely isolate the source of the noise. You can not do that in a vehicle (correction, you cannot do that in a daily driver, practically, especially a Tundra). It's an egg crate with wheels as far as sound penetration goes, and for the cost MLV becomes severely hindered by diminishing returns quickly. It's thick, heavy, not easy to secure and it doesnt isolate all road noise and it is expensive. The tire example above, road noise is still going to get in through the floor, doors, windows. Same with rain on the roof, youre still going to get rain from the hood, windows, wheel wells. You cannot completely address all sources of noise with MLV, even in doors, the sound is still going to penetrate through the A,B,C pillars, and windows. Outside of stopping a specific source of noise (rain on the roof) youre still going to: 1. Hear the rain from elsewhere, 2: have an all in cabin savings of 1-3db in sound reduction. For the effort, and costs, it's just not worth it.

Our Tundras are not built with fancy glass and felt wheel wells. MLV is not appropriate for most people, in most situations, in my opinion.

 

MLV is likely not worth it for most people. It made a difference, but not a large one. And it is a lot of work. I put about 40 hours in sound treatment. You can search for my thread here somewhere:

 

I realize this is an old thread, but it's a decent one for the topic. I'm about to start taking out the interior (tackling rear first) to install some Killmat on rear wall and doors, but curious about the MLV comments above. Since I have everything out, I wonder if it would be worth adding some of the foam padding (Siless 157mil) while I'm there. I feel the damper for the big panels would help, but not sure how much 4mm of sound insulation would really help given really big windows and everything else. Amazon has the Siless for $50 a pack which makes it seem worthwhile given the labor to remove everything but would be great to hear some comments from others and their experience.

Am I just adding weight and spending money for little gain? I still have the factory head unit with aftermarket speakers and I'm looking for clearer sound, especially for "voice" type audio (phone calls, talk radio, whatever). Its a truck, so expectations are low.

 

Your goal being "clearer sound" - deadener will do nothing to help with that and not worth your money much less the time to install if that is all you are doing ---- BUT if you plan on adding a DSP or new headunit then absolutely add in the deadener.

New headunit / DSP is the absolute critical first step to better sound - waaaaaay before new aftermarket speakers. Factory units put out trash signal with all pass filters, time alignments, EQ, etc. By replacing the OEM speakers first, you are just feeding them that trash signal and not getting near what those speakers are capabale of.

 

Thanks for this. Head unit is next and I've looked at the HU thread on here. Speakers were replaced because a couple had gone bad and figured I'd knock it out with the goal of replacing the head unit down the road. This might get me to do it sooner than later. I like the convenience of steering wheel controls and SiriusXM, but I know with some adapters I can keep all that. Just need to settle on a reasonable head unit.

 

If you wanna keep headunit can use a kicker keyloc to get rid of the factory eq and feed to an amp.

Keyloc not perfect but pretty damn close and will not interfere with steering wheel controls and it is easy a hell to set up (tap rear channels not front). I use one with on my '23 becasue cannot change HU. Feeds into MiniDSP 8x12DL ($$$) then amps and I have audio bliss --- I do have a buttload of deadener too