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How many u-joints?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by kenomouth64, Feb 28, 2020.

  1. Feb 28, 2020 at 9:13 AM
    #1
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    How many Universal joints on the rear driveshaft for a 2nd generation 4WD Toyota Tundra. I am pretty sure it is three, but I am finding conflicting information.

    I suppose I could just crawl under my truck and look...

    Also, any recommendations on replacement U joints?
     
  2. Feb 28, 2020 at 9:15 AM
    #2
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 RUNNIN' WITH THE DEVIL RÖCKIN' N RÖLLIN'

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    Moog U-joints greasable
     
    kenomouth64 [OP] likes this.
  3. Feb 28, 2020 at 9:28 AM
    #3
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    That's what I was thinking.
     
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  4. Feb 28, 2020 at 12:00 PM
    #4
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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  5. Feb 28, 2020 at 2:08 PM
    #5
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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  6. Feb 29, 2020 at 8:42 AM
    #6
    nuclearlemon

    nuclearlemon New Member

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    except the rear shaft isn't toyota :( it's dana.

    never done a tundra, but i've done plenty of ujoints on land cruisers. with a press, it's an easy fix, just be sure that's your actual problem or you're going through a bit of work for nothing.
     
  7. Feb 29, 2020 at 9:30 AM
    #7
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    OK, not sure who or where you have had your work done in the past, but your wide generalizations about this topic indicate, to me, an ignorance of what a trained technician is capable of doing. I have worked in transmission shops as a rebuilder, and at dealerships as a line technician. I have replaced hundreds of U-joints on many different types of vehicles, and not one has ever failed. But, it does take training, and a knowledge of how these joints are supposed to work, to understand the correct way to accomplish these tasks.

    IMHO, the average vehicle does not need the driveshaft balanced after the u-joints are replaced, as long as they are replaced properly. If the technician takes the time to mark all the components of the driveshaft, so that when assembled, they are all aligned in the same direction, and the u-joints are properly installed and end caps seated correctly, there is rarely any need to balance the shaft.

    But, if there is a pre-existing problem with the driveshaft, or it has been damaged in an accident, or the shaft is going into a race vehicle or high performance vehicle, then balancing may be necessary.

    I know there are so called 'hammer mechanics' out there, I have met more than a few in my time. But a trained technician should know how, and when to use a hammer to accomplish a task without doing damage to the parts they are working on.
     
  8. Feb 29, 2020 at 10:25 AM
    #8
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 RUNNIN' WITH THE DEVIL RÖCKIN' N RÖLLIN'

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  9. Mar 4, 2020 at 12:03 PM
    #9
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    I am definitely not a trained technician. Hence, I will be using the Hammer method to remove the old U-joints. Then I will use a vice to press the new ones in most likely.
     
  10. Mar 4, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    #10
    hagrid

    hagrid Ich habe sie gespritzt

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    Good Lord, I hope not. Need to save money for fuel.
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  11. Mar 4, 2020 at 6:59 PM
    #11
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    For the first part of your reply: I would tend to agree that some of the participants in many of these technical discussions may not be as well trained as I consider myself to be, but I am also not arrogant enough to think that I know anywhere near 'it all'. I come to these forums, first for knowledge and advice on the many topics being discussed, and second with the hope that once and a while I can contribute some of my knowledge and experience to others that might find it useful.

    I also feel strongly that my many years of training and experience doesn't give me the right to belittle anyone just because they do not have the benefit of my background. I have aided, trained, and guided many employees and co-workers over the years, and have found that most appreciate the help when it is offered in a patient, constructive way. Unfortunately, I have also found over the years that there are some individuals that just can't be helped. Whether it is the lack of ability to understand, the lack of desire to learn, or in some cases the simple lack of mechanical ability, they can present a challenge that is difficult or impossible to overcome. One of the big problems I see in this type of communication medium, is the difficulty in determining what type of individual, in front of the other screen, that one is dealing with. I always try to enter into any conversation, in these forums, expecting to find a common ground for discussion. Unfortunately, that doesn't always work out that way. It doesn't stop me from continuing to try.

    As for the driveshaft balancing issue. I agree that, if one does suspect a driveshaft is causing a vibration, and you have eliminated failing u-joints as a cause, then by all means you should have the driveshaft balance checked professionally.
     
  12. Mar 5, 2020 at 8:39 AM
    #12
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    Wow, it has been a long while since I owned a Ford Pickup, a '68 F250 2wd, and my biggest problem with it was the front end king-pins wearing loose in the infamous twin I-beam suspension. Of course I can't be sure, but it would seem to me that for both front and rear driveshafts to be that far out of balance, to cause damage to the rear of the transfer case and pinion seal on the front diff, they may have been out of balance from the factory. Or possibly they tossed one or more of the balance weights from the shaft while in use. In either case, not good.

    The last domestic pickup I owned, was a '79 Chevy K10 shortbed, with the 350 and a manual 4speed. I got it new, and kept it for about 10 years (about 165k). The biggest problems with it were rust issues with the bed/tailgate, a failed pressure plate in clutch, and the soft cam in the engine (had to rebuild it at about 65K).
     
  13. Mar 7, 2020 at 7:09 PM
    #13
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    OK, I just read some info that suggests the driveshafts in the Tundra are made of aluminum, not steel. If that is the case, then the 'hammer' method might not be the best way to work on them. I will need to do more research on this.
     
  14. Mar 9, 2020 at 6:29 AM
    #14
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    Completed this job over the weekend. I used a large vice and hammer to complete the job. It was a pain in the ass to complete this job without the press. The grinding noise from the rear end of the truck is still there though. The thumping noises are gone though. The U-Joints were quite worn, so it was definitely time to complete the job.
     
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  15. Mar 9, 2020 at 8:31 AM
    #15
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    Can you confirm whether your driveshaft was steel, or aluminum?
     
  16. Mar 9, 2020 at 2:49 PM
    #16
    kenomouth64

    kenomouth64 [OP] New Member

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    Hold the Line! If you are not holding the line, abandon your ship. Destruction is inevitable without more to hold the line!
    I believe it was steel. It was a heavy SOB. I will be crawling back under it today to put the skid plates back on. I'll check it with a magnet to verify.
     
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  17. Mar 9, 2020 at 10:09 PM
    #17
    TechWrench

    TechWrench New Member

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    Thanks.
     

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