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How important is one product line detailing??

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by HecticEnergy, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. Jul 7, 2018 at 8:49 AM
    #1
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    I have read in several places that it is important to stick to one product line.

    My understanding is it has to do with the chemistry of the products being built to work together. Without sticking to one product line the layers (sealant, wax) will not bond the same and may require reapplication sooner.

    Is this true? For just sections of steps (decon, seal/wax/soap)?

    I was planning on stripping with dawn solution wash, paint correction, ironx, dawn wash, clay bar, mr pink wash, McKee seal, CG caranuba w/ x-seal, butter wet wax. Mr pink wash and butter wet wax applied between deep waxed.

    I may switch that McKees for Jet Seal depending on your responses... or swap the wax for the MaKee brand of wax... sticking with Mr pink for now.
     
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  2. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:33 AM
    #2
    Pudge

    Pudge New Member

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    I think you're good to go. I use mostly carpro stuff and some guys stick to Adam's. Its preference I think. The experts use all different stuff with no issues. As long as you're doing everything in the right order with quality products I'm sure the name brand doesn't matter.

    I notice one thing on your list and idk if it's just the way you wrote it...I think you should do paint correction after ironX and clay. Dont quote me but that would make more sense to me.

    When I have time soon I plan to
    Dawn wash
    IronX
    Clay mitt ...and bar in tight areas and glass
    Dawn wash
    Eraser (I think it's an IPA wash)
    Car soap wash
    Maybe hand polish but idk
    Seal (hydro2 and reload)
    Wax (buttery wax or a spray on from carpro)
    I think that's my plan anyway. I dont have the means or skill for pain correction.
     
  3. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:49 AM
    #3
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Thanks!

    I’m still novice too, I’ll double check the order of the correction vs clay bar but my thinking was correction would stir up some gunk and clay bar would be needed to fully pick it up.

    I’m new to paint correction too, but I’ve noticed some scratches that need repair, I’m sure I’ll be posting pics before attempting.
     
  4. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:51 AM
    #4
    Pudge

    Pudge New Member

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    You thinking also makes sense. My thought is to get all the contaminates off before taking a wheel to the car risking those contaminates causing more swirls. Jim or Steve will know the answer.
     
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  5. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:53 AM
    #5
    LT75

    LT75 New Member

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    Skip the dawn wash. It leaves behind so much residue. If your using eraser then you're taking the last LSP off with that.
     
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  6. Jul 7, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #6
    Pudge

    Pudge New Member

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    Thank you!
     
  7. Jul 7, 2018 at 11:48 AM
    #7
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 T-Rex Staff Member

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    Yes, paint correction after clay bar. The point of clay bar is to remove all the particles and such on the paint you don't see, leaving it as smooth as glass. If you did paint correction before you may actually be rubbing those around prior...I think.
     
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  8. Jul 10, 2018 at 5:29 AM
    #8
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Definitely do clay bar and Iron X before paint correction. You don’t want to be rubbing those contaminants around on the paint. Claying also can mar the paint slightly, so doing it after the correction could mess up the work you did on the polishing step.
    I would also use something other than Dawn for the wash. I know a lot of guys use it, but I feel better using something dedicated to cars on the paint. Chemical Guys and Carpro make great soap, but if you’re doing all of those steps, just about anything should be fine.

    @Pudge order of steps is the same that I use, except that I don’t use wax. I did recently get some from Waxaddict though, so I’ll be trying it as soon as this rain stops.

    I also have some CQuartz that I plan to apply, which will remove the need for sealant and wax altogether. It doesn’t look like that will be happening soon though.
     
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  9. Jul 11, 2018 at 6:10 AM
    #9
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Clay mitt: nanoskin? That workout pretty good? Saw reviews on Amazon were glowing (like you said, a few said still clay bar in tight or areas that pickup a ton of contaminants).
     
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  10. Jul 11, 2018 at 6:14 AM
    #10
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Looks like I may need more than just miner paint correction in a few spots... I’ll post about it when I get some decent pictures of the areas. Still debating on having a pro do Ceramic coating... it’s just so damn expensive! (Labor intensive)
     
  11. Jul 11, 2018 at 6:26 AM
    #11
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Definitely. That clay mitt is awesome.
     
  12. Jul 11, 2018 at 6:39 AM
    #12
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    I haven’t actually applied the ceramic coating on my truck, but I’ve tested a few areas on one of my older vehicles. (It’s nice having a couple of extra family rides to test things on) It’s not difficult, and you will save a ton if you feel confident about doing it. It’s only 70 bucks or so for the cquartz. Most of the money they charge for doing it is all the prep work, along with having a polisher and all the products they use.
     
  13. Jul 11, 2018 at 7:16 AM
    #13
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    I’m good with spending the time getting it clean.. and if it was just some swirl marks, I’d be ok learning to buff those out too, but I’ve got 3 or 4 spots that I’m not sure will buff out easily by hand... some clear coat scratches(?) on the drivers side door, just under the window toward the rear view mirror. Probably 1” for the longest one.
    2A486E25-CC29-4216-BC98-75D483C219C8.jpg
    18B74654-40A1-41B8-96EE-3781ABC196DC.jpg

    A ding that looks like it’s to the metal on the drivers side rear passenger door. It’s tiny, but I’m sure it’ll grow if not corrected...
    (Not pictured)

    And some damage in the hood paint from road debris (I’m guessing).
    Here’s one, others are about the same size, about 1/4” in length:
    46BD38BB-34E8-45EF-9640-C55F135D673A.jpg



    Here’s a shop around here that does ceramic coating (with “starting” pricing):
    http://www.dynamic-autoworks.com/
     
  14. Jul 11, 2018 at 10:47 AM
    #14
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Can’t tell for sure, but those look like bug etchings. If they are, I’m not sure you’ll be able to get them out. My wife and daughter have those on their hoods, and nothing I’ve tried has worked.

    That starting price isn’t terrible, considering the work involved. Just buying all the stuff you need would run 300 bucks minimum. I’m sure that price is for a little car though. Probably double for a truck.
     
  15. Jul 11, 2018 at 11:29 AM
    #15
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Bug etching - guts from high impact bug collisions sitting on the paint too long lifting/roughing the clear coat? I’ve tried scratching at it with my nail a bit. When I didn’t get make any progress I just assumed it’d take some heavier duty cleaner / scrub... more research needed on my end I suppose.
     
  16. Jul 11, 2018 at 11:32 AM
    #16
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Yeah. I’ve done everything short of wet sand the ones on my wife’s Sequoia. Didn’t make a dent. It did make them more shiny and noticeable though.
     
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  17. Jul 12, 2018 at 5:33 AM
    #17
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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  18. Jul 12, 2018 at 5:58 AM
    #18
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    So I’m thinking now:


    CG clean slate wash
    IronX (Adams) and rinse
    Nanoskin mitt & clay bar (for glass, tight areas, and areas that likely accumulate the most contaminants) - probably hit everything with the mitt then get the areas I think need clay... depending on @War Machine results on his test vehicle :)
    Clean slate wash
    Paint correction (still gotta look at what I need for this - maybe take it to a shop and get dents popped too)

    Let sit for a night (garaged hopefully)

    Clean Slate Wash
    McKee seal
    CG caranuba wax with xseal
    Butter wet wax

    Monthly wash (maybe weekly or every two weeks - depends on time and weather)
    Mr Pink
    Butter wet wax
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2018 at 10:10 AM
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  19. Jul 12, 2018 at 9:37 AM
    #19
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    I think you will be disappointed by CG Clean Slate. I've tried it, and it did very little in the way of removing prior waxes/sealants, unless they were significantly degraded already. I've not had much luck with Dawn either, unless I had the same degraded LSP. McKees just came out with a new Coating Prep Wash, which is currently 25% off on Amazon, and I think will suit your needs much better.

    Your second wash would not have to be a 'strip wash', it's only purpose is to get rid of any clay residue, which you obviously do not get with the mitt. If you're topping the McKees Sealant (presumably HiDef), with BWW, your interim application of X-Seal is not really necessary. When you're done putting HiDef on there, I think you'll be so happy with the results you'll go right to your topper. The shine that you get with BWW, combined with it's ease of use, makes it easy to see why it's popular. I look forward to seeing your results.
     
  20. Jul 12, 2018 at 10:10 AM
    #20
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Still probably a few weeks out from actually doing it. Right now I'm doing research and getting opinions. Thanks for the info!

    I'll check out McKees PrepWash - Thanks!
    $30 McKee's 37 MK37-650 High Def Paint Sealant, 16 fl. ozthis is the McKees sealer I was thinking of getting (MK37-650 HiDef).

    "Your second wash would not have to be a 'strip wash', it's only purpose is to get rid of any clay residue, which you obviously do not get with the mitt"
    Few things:
    1) Yes, the strip wash would be to get rid of the residue from the areas I clay (I wouldnt expect the mit to leave anything)
    2) I was planning on hitting it with the mitt followed by the clay, so the mitt wouldnt pick up the residue from the clay.
    3) I want bare clear coat for paint correction, right?
    Not sure why I put Mr Pink pre wax... I fixed it... it was early this morning I guess. My though was to use the "strip wash" soap to avoid putting a "Conditioner" soap on (dont want residue under the sealer)

    The thought behind the X-Seal carnauba wax was to give an extra layer between the seal and the BWW. The reviews I've seen on BWW is that it's short term.. lucky to get a few weeks out of it before normal driving conditions wears it off. The X-Seal lasts a bit longer. One of the other detailing threads talks about whatever you put on the top is really just a sacrifice layer to protect the under coat seals/waxes. I have the BWW already, so I figure I'll use that on top of the longer lasting X-Seal Carnauba while I've got it. After I run out of BWW I'll decide if it's worth getting more or not.

    That's my current thinking anyway. My mind is far from made up LOL
    Thanks again for your thoughts/recomendations!
     
  21. Jul 12, 2018 at 10:23 AM
    #21
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Test vehicle did not return to home base until after dark last night. The pilot has dance practice on Wednesday and Thursday. Stand by.
     
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  22. Jul 12, 2018 at 10:30 AM
    #22
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    No rush. Headed out of town this weekend, wont get to it until a weekend.. I've got bumpers to take off and take to the bed liner place lol Also, I still need to figure out what I'm ordering, and what i'm doing about paint correction. Thanks for the update though :)
     
  23. Jul 12, 2018 at 11:15 AM
    #23
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Answer to #3 - yes, you want your paint as clean as possible prior to attempting correction. And, you're correct, that top layer is indeed 'sacrificial'. BWW gets a (somewhat well deserved) bad rap for it's lack of longevity, but the shine and the gratification it gives can not be denied. I can tell you that I use HiDef without a topper of any kind, just use Griots Spray Wax occasionally as a drying aid after a maintenance wash, and the water still beads after six months.
     
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  24. Jul 12, 2018 at 12:43 PM
    #24
    War Machine

    War Machine Premium Elite Member

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    Enjoy taking that rear bumper off.
     
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  25. Jul 12, 2018 at 1:05 PM
    #25
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    :rofl:
    thanks.... i think....
     
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  26. Jul 12, 2018 at 2:32 PM
    #26
    BayRunner

    BayRunner New Member

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    I would suggest McKees HiDef Sealant over the Chemical Guys Jet Seal. I was not happy with the streaks and blotches that Jet Seal left and took a long time to buff them out. McKees HiDef went on and off very smoothly and left no blotches.
     
  27. Jul 12, 2018 at 2:37 PM
    #27
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Thanks!
    Any thoughts on sticking to one line for detailing? should I go with a McKee branded wax instead of the CG?
     
  28. Jul 12, 2018 at 2:46 PM
    #28
    BayRunner

    BayRunner New Member

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    I generally like to stick to one line, but that does not mean it's absolute. Since I'm also learning from the other's as well, I'm drifting towards using what works best for each situation. The last detail I did followed these steps:

    • Wash with Mr. Pink (Chemical Guys / CG)
    • Clay with clay pad on orbital and CG clay lubber
    • Wash again with MR. Pink
    • No paint correct because it was the daughters new car. However, I did do a paint correction on the wife's car using CG PD40 finishing polish. This took light swirls out nicely.
    • Sealed with McKee's HiDef sealant Easy on and off with no blotches
    • Wax with CG Pete's 37 paste wax. I've also used CG liquid wax with X-Seal as well with good results.
     
  29. Jul 12, 2018 at 3:06 PM
    #29
    HecticEnergy

    HecticEnergy [OP] New Member

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    Thanks! I dont have an orbital, so I'll probably stick with liquid waxes for now. I haven't noticed any swirls, the correction I need done may be a little larger than requiring some rubbing compound... not sure though... Thinking about taking it to the pros (as I said before, get those taken care of and a few dents popped) then hope the seal and wax is good enough from needing to have the pros step in again...

    how long does that CG Carnauba with X-seal last would you say? (mine sits out side and gets probably 600 mi/mo mostly 70% or so freeway)
     
  30. Jul 12, 2018 at 3:37 PM
    #30
    BayRunner

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    I got about 6 weeks or so out of the x-seal liquid wax, BTW, you don't need an orbital for the paste wax. I now prefer the paste wax because the application only pits a very thin layer on which is all that is needed. It was very easy to work with and did not over saturate like the liquid does.
     

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