How F'd am I? Door locked shut

Yeah, I've actually got taped notes on the inside of the window indicating which rod or which cable does what and the direction it needs to move.

 

Might be time to just paint it orange and start crawling through the window.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67gig0f4HLo

 

You need to feed a 5 year old through the rear sliding window and have them open it for you.

https://youtu.be/FiQQKlIPhOI

 

That's the wife's side of the truck. She would not be amused at all!

Plus I've got to get the door card back on. That's hard to do with the door shut. Not nearly as hard as getting the door card off with the door shut...

 

I stopped at the body shop today. After everyone laughed at me they sent a tech out to look at it. He's "very confident" that he can get it open with about 2 hours of labor.

I have an appointment on Tuesday. Hopefully that's the last day the door is locked shut.

I did forget to ask what the charge will be if he fails to get the door open. I'll give them a call tomorrow on that.

 

Well, the other 3 doors unlock and open just fine, so no need for a 5 year old.

That video really furthers my love of the full roll-down rear window on my double-cab!

 

What really annoys me is that it took almost 10 hours for me to get the Dukes of Hazard reference! Ughh!

 

The body shop was able to get the door open! Yeah!!!!!

Now we are waiting for a door latch from Toyota. Looks like the latch is on nationwide back order and we are #51 on the list. Ughh!

The body shop is looking into alternate sources for the part.

 

Honestly, best bet may be hitting a JY for another double cab...

 

Or Sequoia.

 

About 2 months ago I bought one for my 2001 drivers door from a dealer in Bakersfield Ca, if that helps for another place to try. I think it was Bill Wrights Toyota. Not cheap though, but no more Dukes of Hazzard.

 

I let the body shop know that the same year Sequoia should be the same part. Might be a different part number but it should be the same.

We've got one arriving on Tuesday or Wednesday.

 

I got one with the Sequoia part number for my 04 DC. Worked great and got it from a used parts place with a discount for a veteran! Glad you got it open. I had to replace mine because the cable to open from inside latch just broke at the little elbow. I wound up replacing the whole assemble with the electronics, both cables, and inside latch for $85.

 

If anyone is curious exactly how f'd I was, to the penny, try $777.14.
That includes a new door latch, installation and a 2 year parts warranty. Ughhh!
It's now at my mechanic for a timing belt job and a check of a few other things including a close look at the lower ball joints.

 

With our help and your desire, you can tackle these jobs yourself and save a lot of $. Jus sayin’

 

He came here for help first. I don't think anyone knew how.

 

This ^

 

Definitely exhausted my list of tricks. I'm dying to know how the body shop did it.

 

Me too, but they just smiled and said it was a trade secret.

 

That is why I stick with the older cars I can work on when I can. Don't trust the mechanics... I get they have "mouths to feed" and "knowledge comes at a cost" but that "$777.14" number does not look a "loyalty to past clients" number. Some of them are as bad as lawyers.

 

Revamping this thread because I'm in the same pickle. I replaced the actuators on both driver and passenger side today. The driver side worked for a couple of minutes but then started locking and unlocking back and forth without stopping; I checked all the wiring and couldn't find a short anywhere, so I figured it was a bad actuator that got delivered so I put the old one back in while I wait for a replacement. I then tackled the passenger side and everything worked perfectly, I checked the handle on the inside and outside, made sure everything locked and unlocked, put it all back together and then shut the door.... Well, then the actuator decided to lock the door without pressing the lock button and the passenger door is completely locked with the interior panel on. I was able to dislodge the panel just enough to get my arms in and play with the rods, but pushing them down to unlock wasn't doing anything. I've been at it for over 3 hours and decided to take a breather for the night before I break something else. I'll take a closer look at everything tomorrow.

 

You're gonna have to tug on the cable ends. Pushing them down will probably not do the trick.. grab a wire hanger or coat hanger to catch the handle wire while you dislodge it from the handle so it doesn't falls into the abyss. Once that ball is out, pull it towards the front of the car to open the door...
Just don't lean on the door from the inside or you'll superman nose first into the ground.
Best of luck.

 

I was able to get the door panel off by unbolting the seat and moving it into the back seat, which allowed me to take off the door handle

then the actuator is controlled by a ball that rotates to open and close the locking assembly the inner door handle is pulled by a wire which pulls the silver piece back and hits a wheel that pushing the lock open.

closed:
Open:


The door was stuck because the ball was stuck in the locked position. To open it all you have to do is push down on the locking rod with one handle and pull the inner handle (or if your handle was broken like mine, you can pull the metal wire inside the black tube) and it forces the actuator to unlock and then opens like normal