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Horn honks continuously

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Aapodaca, Mar 4, 2020.

  1. Mar 4, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #1
    Aapodaca

    Aapodaca [OP] New Member

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    Thank you in advance for your time and advice. My 2006 tundra horn won’t stop honking. I was driving and was stopping at a red light normally; I didn’t slam on my brakes; and my horn just started to go off. I removed the relay from the fuse box under the hood just to get it to stop. I waited a day and slightly banged on my steering wheel thinking it was stuck and I then tried to reinstall the Relay but as soon and it makes contact with the relay socket it still continues to honk. If anyone can help with anything into it will be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Mar 4, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #2
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    This happened to me in a1998 Montero...it was the mechanism in the horn pad that stops the horn contacts from touching and setting the horn off disintegrating and not doing it's job.
     
  3. Mar 4, 2020 at 5:40 PM
    #3
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Saw it right off

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    Your DC might be similar to my 2004 DC and while I wouldn't 100% expect the Horn relay to stuck in energized state or welded contacts, you could eliminate that as a problem. There are 2 other identical relays to my Horn relay. Perhaps you could check the same on your 06 and temporarily check if it's the relay. Do you have access to a VOM ?
     
    Darkness likes this.
  4. Mar 4, 2020 at 5:42 PM
    #4
    Black@Blue19

    Black@Blue19 New Member

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    Hit it harder you’ve got to hit it (him) harder!!! (What About Bob)!!!! Sorry it just came to mind!! I wore my Winnipesaukee shirt today!!:)
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020
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  5. Mar 4, 2020 at 5:51 PM
    #5
    Bob_Wiley

    Bob_Wiley I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful...

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    Jump higher, maybe with your knee more!
     
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  6. Mar 4, 2020 at 5:58 PM
    #6
    MJoeP

    MJoeP New Member

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    Like BubbaW suggests. Switch the horn relay with one of the identical ones. I'd be willing to bet that the horn relay is stuck.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2020 at 6:25 PM
    #7
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN I'm not taking a knee

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    In the meantime unplug your horns in the front and wire a test light instead to troubleshoot.

    Your neighbors well appreciate it.
     
  8. Mar 4, 2020 at 10:00 PM
    #8
    artsr2002

    artsr2002 2005 Tundra DC SR5

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    Darkness likes this.
  9. Aug 22, 2020 at 2:52 PM
    #9
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    Any update to this thread? I have same year tundra and same problem. Only difference is my door locks aren't working right. Need to use key to enter vehicle, then can use buttons to unlock and lock. Its an aftermarket security/autostart which has been installed for over 10 years, and i had it in an '06 access cab tundra for 3 years prior... I mistakenly went to thread artsr2002 referenced, only to hand my mechanic a fuse assembly for the second gen tundras.
     
  10. Aug 23, 2020 at 5:41 PM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` sub-80k mile club

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    You know, I read elsewhere on here where someone had a leak in the cowl or driver's side firewall area and it was dripping right into one of the bulkheads and causing all kinds of crazy problems due to corrosion. Could it be something like that?

    May be worthwhile trying the relay swap mentioned above to rule out a bad/faulty relay.

    Or maybe your truck thinks you're really horny? :p
     
    bmf4069 likes this.
  11. Aug 24, 2020 at 7:41 AM
    #11
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    If the relay doesn't solve it, it could be the clockspring (I think Toyota calls them spiral cables) in the steering wheel has shorted and tripping the horn.
     
  12. Aug 28, 2020 at 7:17 PM
    #12
    skeeter1949

    skeeter1949 New Member

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    I would bet on the clock spring.
     
  13. Aug 29, 2020 at 12:16 PM
    #13
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    Thanks all for your help. Had to share a big development.

    Mechanic and his electrical guy have covid19 like symptoms and have been unable to work on it. So i picked up my driveable but not honk-able truck, since i still need to get around. First ride after getting it home had image below.

    After instinctually yelling "red alert, shields up!" i had the presence of mind to stop in my driveway and take a video.

    GIF is pretty blurry, but reading left to right, the blinking LEDs are ABS (orange), cruise (green), and tire monitoring (orange)

    Vehicle was actually in drive, cruise was not on, tires were not visibly low.

    Starting to think this is similar to the second gen tundra issue where the guy had the fuse assembly go. Locks are also still being temperamental and not working with aftermarket clicker.

    Would a clock spring or relay explain all this?

     
  14. Aug 29, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Not sure about your dash set up which is different than mine in the 2002 AC. Are your volts low? Can’t read the numbers.
    upload_2020-8-29_16-9-45.jpg
     
  15. Aug 29, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #15
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

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    I know this bumper sticker won't fix your problem but it may be a temporary solution.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Aug 29, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    You are #1 in my book.
     
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  17. Aug 29, 2020 at 1:58 PM
    #17
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    Volts are right near middle (little less than 14V) as meter is from 9 to 19. Battery was replaced about 1.5-2 years ago. I don't think that is the culprit since it starts just fine.


    EDIT: mistakenly thought middle was 12 and dial range was from 9 to 15.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2020
  18. Sep 2, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    #18
    shifty`

    shifty` sub-80k mile club

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    @blkhawk661 I am suspicious you may have something that leaked into your firewall bulkhead or some corrossion. I'm having deja-vu as I type this, I swear I mentioned it before but ... yeah, that looks a little whack.

    Looks about where mine was when I posted the odd video of my fluctuations here.

    That was from this thread over here where talks of voltagables has randomly occurred.
     
  19. Sep 9, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #19
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    Update: bought a clock spring ($34) and a relay ($13) online.. mechanic charged me $200 to replace both (fair price?) and now horn, autostart, doors, and alarm all work. ABS and tire sensor are no longer flashing, but cruise light is flashing. Cruise functions fine even if light is flashing regardless of what it is set to. Mechanic said it might take a while for it to reset, and let him know if it continues. Whatever... i'll update if it doesn't go away

    I wanted to share this since I could not find any similar incident on any of the four tundra forums i visited and i won't be the last person to have this issue. I had asked the front clerk to get the mechanic to see if only the relay or only the clock spring would do the trick. That was either lost in translation, or both parts were required as i would have preferred to return a part if possible.
     
  20. Sep 9, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    #20
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

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    Wow only $34 for a clock spring? Seems cheap but I've never priced one for a Tundra.
     
  21. Sep 9, 2020 at 1:52 PM
    #21
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    parts geek
     
  22. Sep 9, 2020 at 1:53 PM
    #22
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

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    Probably not OEM, right?
     
  23. Sep 9, 2020 at 2:04 PM
    #23
    blkhawk661

    blkhawk661 New Member

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    not OEM. Brand name was "replacement" which i've seen on several sites. If they can't figure out how to make a commonly replaced part after 15-20 years of the truck hitting the streets.... well, they wont be in business long. Not that i think my '06 tundra will last me another 14 years and 200k miles anyway.
     
  24. Sep 9, 2020 at 2:19 PM
    #24
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

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    There are few, if any, parts I'd buy aftermarket these days. Most are made in china and don't last or don't fit right or break during installation. If I was going to get rid of something quick, I might consider it.
     
  25. Sep 10, 2020 at 11:26 AM
    #25
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    I agree. That's an EXTREMELY low price. And if properly maintained, that truck will last way longer than the next 14 years/200k miles.
     
  26. Dec 13, 2020 at 8:53 PM
    #26
    Hevy767

    Hevy767 New Member

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    Good evening,
    I have a 2011 tundra, the horns quit! Then a couple of days later the horns starting blowing for no apparent reason. I had to disconnect the horns.
    I had checked the horn fuse when they quit, I have also checked (where the horn relay should be in the fuse box, under the hood.) There is no horn relay. Could it be located somewhere else? Any help would be appreciated with this problem.

    Thanks,

    Jim
     
  27. Dec 14, 2020 at 12:28 AM
    #27
    jwatt

    jwatt I heart men

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    Many moons ago I had a 67 chevy pickup that had same problem. Leak was right above fuse block. It was a nightmare. One day it died on me, and I ended up installing inline fuses on every circuit just so I could get home.
     
  28. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:13 AM
    #28
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Not so new-ish Member

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    This thread is in regards to a first gen Tundy issue. Original OP fixed it with a new clock spring in the steering column. Your truck is 2nd gen and may have an entirely different issue. Try reposting in the 2nd and 3rd gen forum to get more relevant info. I expect a shooing when you've been discovered here....
     
  29. Dec 14, 2020 at 6:18 AM
    #29
    Glock 40

    Glock 40 I'm here to break shit

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    shoo, shoo!
     

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