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Hit a wet spot in the primer when sanding .. help!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by digdug, Feb 6, 2017.

  1. Feb 6, 2017 at 12:39 PM
    #1
    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    Attn anyone who has experience painting plastic: After I had sprayed my final coat of primer on my grill surround I decided to lightly sand it to take off some high spots prior to applying the base coat. I hit a spot that wasn't completely dry yet (I thought I had checked it well enough to make sure it was dry) and it gummed up on me and looks like crap. I waited for it to dry and started to sand it some more but it just seems to make it worse. Any tips on how to smooth it out and the respray so you can't see it, or am I screwed? It was looking great up until this point, and the area is on the top in a really obvious spot.

    Thanks!
    ~dig
     
  2. Feb 6, 2017 at 12:57 PM
    #2
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    Deck rail system, Bed divider, door sill protectors, LED reverse light bars, Aries Bull Bar with 28" 180 watt LED light bar, LED step lights, LED bed lights, driver-side grab handle, TRD Rear Sway Bar, BedRug bed mat and tailgate mat, Morimoto Fog Lights, more to come.....
    Any pics available?
     
  3. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:22 PM
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    MakMurph

    MakMurph I'm here

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    Keep sanding/feathering it out or get some lacquer thinner and rags and wipe it all off and start over
     
    digdug [OP], 040Tundra and joem1cha3l like this.
  4. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:23 PM
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    tye

    tye New Member

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    same as above
     
  5. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:26 PM
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    tomsinamerica

    tomsinamerica New Member

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    what paint was it? Brand & type?
     
  6. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:34 PM
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    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    Here you go!

    IMG_8275.jpg
     
  7. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:38 PM
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    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    I bought adhesion promoter, primer, basecoat, and clear coat all from this company online. It was custom matched to my paint code.

    IMG_8276.jpg
     
  8. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #8
    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    What grid do you think I should use? Wet or dry? Thanks man, I appreciate the advice.
     
  9. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:48 PM
    #9
    MakMurph

    MakMurph I'm here

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    I'd start with 320 wet then finish up with 4-600
     
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  10. Feb 6, 2017 at 1:50 PM
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    tomsinamerica

    tomsinamerica New Member

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    yup, let it cure to the point you can wet sand the area and reapply primer.

    once your primer is cured, if your base coat is metallic, i'd go to 600ish grit or maybe one grade coarser, dark metallics are very punishing of fine scratches in the substrate.
     
    digdug [OP] likes this.
  11. Feb 6, 2017 at 2:06 PM
    #11
    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    Thanks!
     
  12. Feb 6, 2017 at 2:06 PM
    #12
    digdug

    digdug [OP] New Member

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    Thanks man, I appreciate it. Hopefully I can save it.
     
  13. Feb 6, 2017 at 2:08 PM
    #13
    MakMurph

    MakMurph I'm here

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    No problem painting is all about patience lol!
     
    digdug [OP] likes this.
  14. Feb 6, 2017 at 2:32 PM
    #14
    kicnit

    kicnit New Member

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    Best thing you can do at this point is to take a breath, step back, and let it dry. Don't to rush it. Sand that area back down, and do what others have recommended. It will come out great. Is their Clear Coat 2 stage? Curious, as I've only ever used the Spraymax 2k. Hardens just like a true Autobody job.

    Kyle
     
  15. Feb 6, 2017 at 5:01 PM
    #15
    tomsinamerica

    tomsinamerica New Member

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    Yup... painting is all in the prep. I spent over 8 months of evenings and weekends prepping my project car for painting... sand/prime/repeat to get it super straight... then, when it came to painting... it's all done in a matter of hours... somewhat anticlimactic but also an awesome experience

    Take your time getting the primer right, i said above that i'd wetsand... i think you're good either wet or dry... wet is easier to get a contaminants under it which scratch the primer giving you lines in your base... My final coat before sealer was with 400 dry. If you can get a thin foam backing block to sand, that's good... try to not use your fingertips... you may well see that when it has base & clear on it.

    I've not used the system you're using but if the clear is catalysed and has to go on the base within a certain time frame, the most important coat of paint you put down will be the first clear... practice on something first... once you've got everything right including the first coat of clear, any mistakes after that are more simple to fix.
     
    MakMurph likes this.

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