Highest mileage 1st Gen. Thread?

Good morning Tundra community!

New to the forum, but a longtime Tundra owner. Currently driving an 06 SR5 4wd DC with 495k miles. I'm in the Houston (TX) area and commute from the "country" into downtown daily. So my truck is subjected to highway and stop-and-go conditions. In addition, I'm a real outdoors guy... Frequently tow 2 different boats 1) 20 bayboat 4000lbs 2) 15 duckboat 1000lbs. During duck season, I always keep my Honda Rancher ATV loaded on the back of my truck. I'm usually running around in places where 4wd is a must, so I use mine almost every weekend (since the day I bought the truck)...

Repairs: radiator-1, alternator-2, ball-joints-2, serpentine belt-1...
Needing Repair: front window motors, ek/eg sensors... No concerns
Service: transmission flush-80k, tires-6 set, rotors-2, brakes- 7 pads/2 drums, engine oil- every 10 to 15k Pennzoil Platinum.

It's never left my standed (not counting when I broke my ball-joints). She's a little "beat up" so my family thinks daddy needs a new truck! I know the day is coming... And it makes me feel dirty!

 

WOW WOW!!

 

Got any pics? I own it's twin!

 

And that’s why this thread was created to hear stories like that!

 

Halfway to a 1000K! Welcome from CO. Semper Fi

 

My 2000 still has the original starter and alternator with 373,000 miles

 

I have the original starter and alternator on my 2000 tundra with 373,000 miles

 

2003 4.7 V8 Tundra, 305,000 and running strong. Replaced timing belt at 190,000 and a few batteries, belts. Everything else original on engine.

 

The 4.7 is one durable motor. Thanks for sharing Bryon!

 

312k First tundra, not my first Toyota.

 

You have to show us some photos. When did you acquire said beast?

 

I bought my 2001 used at 336k and just got to 403k

I am the third owner

 

What type of work has been done to it?

 

Shocks, tires, water pump, valve gaskets, spark plugs, power steering, belts, gas cap, idle pulley

Real easy truck to work on

Still need to flush transmission fluid and replace ball joints

 

I just purchased my 2003 with 240k. Part of the reason the miles didn’t bother me was this thread. I think I paid a little to much at $5400 but it just had the timing belt service done. It did need a rear main seal that cost me $1100 to get done but I was in no mood to mess with it being 4wd.

I do need front axles. Any recommendations on brands. Cheapest I could find OEM was $362 each. Toyota remans were $155 but on national back order. 11 people on the waiting list already.

 

Try these

 

First time posting.

I bought a 2004 SR5 4x4 with 112k miles in 2009 for $9500 in Central California. I think I'm the second owner. Now it has 297k miles. Years later I took it to a dealer in Durango, CO for the recall on airbags and lower ball joints. I've recently in the last year had to replace rack and pinion twice, lucky parts were warranty, but labor was still $500+. In the last couple years the CV boots kept tearing, but I had the Bilstien leveling kit with coil covers for ~150k miles. Let a local Point S shop put stock coil overs back in. I forget the brand, but it seems fine for my use. Didn't really need leveling kit anyway, just liked the look.

I've had 2 sets of Yokohama Geolandars which are great for gas mileage and long wear, like 65k+ miles. Set of Falken Wild Peak were decent when new, but they didn't last long and wore out oddly by like 35k mi. Just had Pep Boys put on Goodyear Tail runners, which seem good, maybe better in snow. The shop told me that a ball joint was bad. Quoted $1200, said they had parts in stock. I told them don't worry about it, don't bother with alignment. I want to see if dealer will fix in recall. Turns out it's the upper ball joint driver side. Dealer recommend doing both at same time, quoted $1200 for both with alignment. Upper ball joints weren't in recall I guess.

I'm not a very good or patient mechanic, and this is my daily driver since I've got a lot of work to do to my bike (KLR650) for the season. I'm not rich either, but I think I'm just going to take it to the dealer for the upper ball joints at least, maybe timing belt too, which was done with radiator flush and transmission pan service over 150k miles ago. I was told not to mess with transmission now because it gets used to the viscosity of the fluid in it. Someone said the starches in the tranny. Anyway, the transmission works great and hasn't been touched in over 150k mi.

I just want to get it in good shape for another 100k miles at least. Should I let dealer do it? I'm able to do some work watching videos and reading forums online, but I'm worried I'll mess up my truck, or not finish in a day and I'll be stuck with no ride to work. I'm thinking this isn't the kind of job like spark plugs or fuel filter replacement that I can do myself even if I'm not very experienced, ball joints are a little more complicated.

I've done odds and ends over the years, but bigger jobs like suspension I usually leave up to a shop. All and all I'd say the truck has been pretty low maintenance. I use full synthetic, but go at least 6k between oil changes. Maintenance is still lower cost than a new truck. I love her, and even with almost 300k miles, I still get 18-19mpg on highway trips in Colorado. She's lived in California, Utah, and Colorado. She's been coast to coast twice, visiting a bunch of states as well as Mexico and Canada. I'll take her to Alaska some day, but I'll have to fix the ball joints first.

 

Balls joints are at the most a two beer job. $100 in parts. $200 if you want OEM. Alignment should be about $100 at any tire shop. Order your parts from Amazon on wensday. Get them on friday. Fix it sunday afternoon, get it aligned on Monday....go enjoy the freaking $1000 you saved.

Ball joints are NOT complicated. One of the easiest things you can do. Just don't be afraid if you have to break out the BFH.

Suspension work is EASY. The parts are big, strong and you have easy access to everything. Hard to mess up. One of the few places where you can usually just pull out a hammer and bang on it until it comes loose and not mess anything up.

DYI auto work is more a matter of bravery than skill. Thats what the beer is for. Don't let the INSANE $1200 price tag make you think its a big job. It's not. Watch a youtube video of someone doing it. Its not a big deal.

 

Take it somewhere for the fuel filter. I hate that thing. It took me an hour and it doesnt stop pouring gas out.

 

I was almost going to do mine soon until empty lord said not to worry as many of the trucks that go through his shop never get them done. Mine has about 20k miles on it (2nd one since OEM). This is a shop thing for sure due to those hard lines.

 

Will 2 ton floor jack and jack stands be enough? What specialty tools do I need?

 

Just open the gas cap and it stops

 

LBJs are easy peasy, but the uppers are a PITA. what a nightmare, especially on a 4x4.

 

I had the motor running and pulled the fuel pump fuse, and had the gas cap out.

 

I'll remember that one. A buddy who was a helicopter mechanic helped me with that one. I don't remember it being messy, but it was a long time ago.

 

As a mentioned in another thread, I just purchased a 06 with 195k that I hoping will last me to at least 300k. I love the size of this truck and how it drives.

 

Just big enough, but not too big. (Softball set up!)

 

I will let someone else hit that home run haha. I showed it to my uncle who was about to buy a new Taco until he sat in the backseat and could not believe how cramped it was, he kept telling me he wished they still made a truck this size.

 

Yeah. My buddy bought a Taco after doing some time in my truck. He regretted and sold it after 3 months due to cramps. He then bought a 2013 Rock Warrior and hated it being too big. Plus, he complained how squeaky the interior was during operation. Rattles and squeaks.

Haven’t seen him in a while, so don’t know if he still has it.

 

You can do it with a hammer. But renting a ball joint puller and ball joint press from an auto shop will make your life much easier, and is the right way to do it.

But this is basically how I do it....because I live an hour out of town and hate running tools back and forth. Like I said, its requires more bravery than skill. But these are big, heavy parts designed to take a lot of abuse so its okay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9unAkpfd5zA

Yes, your floor jack and stand will work.

If you don't want to pull the joint yourself, you can take the whole steering knuckle to a shop and they will do it for you but that is a lot more work as now you have to completely take apart the wheel.

I wouldn't say nightmare....but yeah..the lowers are just bolt ons, the uppers are pressed out and pressed in, but with careful hammer work or a ball joint press (recommended) its not bad.