Hidden winch possibilities/got trapped in the snow for a day

Mean...I do think that is pretty much what we all want right?

Doesn't mean we get it....but its what we want.

For me it would depend on how often I'm getting stuck. Its its once a day then a lift, tires and winch would be in order, if its once a year then tire chains and maybe a come-along are all I need (this is what I have)

In the winter my tundra lives with chains on, its the recovery vehicle for everyone else on my road. It does the plowing and the pulling out of the stuck subarus, while the subarus are everyone's daily drivers. Its never been stuck or close to stuck with chains on. Its virtually unstoppable. I plow uphill easily with it with chains. A winch would be cool, and maybe someday I will have one, but I don't really need one as long I have chains.

 

I do mild trails fairly often and just want the truck to sit more level with maybe the possibility of better tires, this is the first time I’ve been stuck stuck usually I can put the truck in 4 low and get out of bad spots. This is my only vehicle so I don’t wanna ruin the drivability.

 

Don't think about the one thing. Picture a goal for your truck as a system. Gear, suspension, tires, what it needs to do for you, what your budget allows.

If you want a winch then 5100s probably will ride like hell, as will spacers. The reason is both rely on stock coils and those are progressive. They have zones that are soft for small bumps, those zones will be compressed by the winch weight and leave you with zones meant for hard bumps. It will ride stiff.

You'll probably want to look at Toytec and see what they have to offer with linear coils in the 650 or 700 ftlbs range if you want a winch.

Think about tires. A good set of all terrains in the 265/75/16 size would make a world of difference.

Spend some time reading the first gen builds section, see what others have done and what worked or didnt work for them. Message those members direct for feedback, that's what forums are good for. Then you won't waste time and money messing with the wrong set ups.

 

Yeah. I don’t wanna waste money and ruin my truck at the same time.

 

Yes. This ^^^^^^

Vehicles are a system, its not easy to tinker with just one aspect without a cost. For instance, you want it to be level, but there are real reasons it was designed and built not to be.

Now personally, when mine was leveled with spacers, I thought it rode just fine. But, I did have bad tire wear issues, which may or may not be a result of it needing tie-rod ends.

But, it was hard to get into (I'm 6') I got a little worse gas milage, front visibility was impacted, and frankly I didn't actually think it looked that great, and of course, it was really squatted with a load.

Oh, and it wore out the front diff seals....which happens anwyway, but when I pulled them it was clear that the bottom of the seals had been worn out, the direction the CVs where being pulled by the lift.

If this is your only vehicle I really recommend not screwing with it in any major way. Keep it in good running shape, put the best tires you can on it, and enjoy. If you seriously want to get into off roading, you need another vehicle that you can beat up and doesn't leave you in trouble when it needs to sit in your driveway for a month while you replace the front end or something.

 

Spend a few weeks reading the build threads, that is honestly the best thing to do. Learn from our mistakes. I did up my suspension without learning the first time. I redid it three years later and still ran into shit that could have gone smoother. I just rebuilt it all last year and it is finally where I want it.

Dont worry at all about the rear, start contemplating the front and the tires. That's all you need.

 

I’ll probably hold off on tires for a few years unless I can get a good deal I bought my current ones in September 2018 and it was almost $800!

 

Yeah I was looking at 300k mike plus beat up tacos for fun with a friend that made a rig with one.

 

What are some good all terrains y’all recommend?

 

you'll open a never ending can of worms with that question. That's worse than asking what oil is good.

BFG K02 are pretty solid
Falken Wildpeak have a good rep and low price tag
I love Yokohama ATS and they're particularly good for snow, also on the cheap side.

 

Ahah thanks!

 

I like General Grabbers AT2's. Not too expensive, not too noisy, and good in snow and dirt.

But yeah, asking what is the best tire is like asking what is the prettiest girl....or what is the best handgun caliber.....You will get a hundred opinions, none of which can really be proven conclusively.

What sucks about tires is that they are the LAST thing most people want to do, but are the first thing you should actually do to increase performance. I'm no different. I will run tires bald, complaining all the while, before I actually just bite the bullet and get good ones.

 

yeah the only reason I replaced my old tires is they were dry rotted and one kept going flat.

 

If I were to not go with a winch and just wanted to put better tires and level out the truck would 5100s be a good idea?

 

Spot on @Aerindel
I'm guilty of "theres still tread left!" I'm the same way with shoes too. Tires make a bigger difference than just about anything. They affect the ride quality, the traction, cornering, braking, cabin noise, mpg, you name it. The most rapid improvement to be had is in tires.

 

Yes, that would be a sound choice. Easy on the wallet and a nice ride on or off road. You only need fronts to get level, rears would help compliment the ride but arent necessary. I would leave the rear height alone.

 

Ok that’s probably what I’ll do but it will take a while I told myself no more fun things till I pay off my credit card ahha

 

I hear that. Get some Dave Ramsey in your life young man, you'll live better. Until then, study up. Its tempting to buy stuff but your truck cam wait for mods.

 

Yeah I’ve been paying it all off I’m pretty close probably like a month or two more. And I’ll probably go for the 5100s first then once my current tires wear out I’ll go for some all terrains. I’ve got his book on my kindle and read it too haha

 

How stiff are the 5100s I like how comfortable my truck is now.

 

Best advice I have is buy a good quality hand tool set.
Replace the stock fronts with 5100's, removing and installing yourself.
(pay a shop to swap your springs or ask around and see if anybody is willing to help you swap (this is dangerous to do in your driveway and not worth the risk)

Drive the truck if its too stiff swap them out. (5100's aren't expensive, carry a pretty good return on investmetn if you don't like them after a few 1000 miles. So very little risk involved with trying them out.

But, typically nobody complains about the 5100 being too stiff.

 

That is very cool....and now really makes me wish I'd kept my 2002 Tundra to hand down to my kids...first one will be driving in 3 months...

 

I lifted my 5100s with my stock coils on my 2002 Tundra. I lifted it the full 2+ inches in the front and used a 1 inch block in the rear to level it all around. I tried to like it, but I didn't. The rear was fine, but the front was WAY stiffer than stock. I would not do that again. If you go the 5100 route, I would limit it to an inch in the front and leave the rear alone. This should not make a huge change to the way your truck rides now and will be the cheapest. If you need anymore lift than an inch, I would not recommend 5100s and stock coils. Keeping cost in mind, I would go 5100s with OME or Dobinson's springs to supply the lift or an OME setup all around with 2884 coils and 90021 shocks in the front (1.75-2 inches of lift and more forgiving ride).

If you really like the way your truck rides now, then I'd just get better tires and traction boards. Recoup some of that money by selling your current tires (considering their condition, they gotta be worth $200-300 to someone). These are a great all-around AT tire, good in the snow and easy on the wallet.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kumho-Set-...tion+Width:265|Rim+Diameter:16&epid=681639127

 

I just went and looked up Bilstein 5100 lift height recommendations for 2000 Tundra...it's now only 1 inch...which makes sense to be based on my experience, but I'm certain is was higher than that back when I did it in 09.

https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/prod...706953834484437196&BodyId=4805928558222945481

 

A hand models final conclusion:

1) Keep your sweet Michelin LTX existing tires.

2) Put chains on before you need them. Forget the winch. Buy one ‘come along’ and two plastic thread thingys.

3) Billy Bobs 5100 shocks are very nice but firm for off roading. Great for your daily driver 99% on street. Get them.

4) Our trucks are awesome and plenty capable as they sit close to stock. The axle to ground clearance is sufficient on 285/75/r16. The axle to ground clearance is the most important thing for off roading (besides having 4x4) and NOT how tall your truck can sit off the frame. Lifts magnify the off road jiggle effects.

5) Did I say our trucks are awesome?

 

My fronts sit at one notch up from shtock. Did this to compensate for 17 years of front end coil reduction? She looks like she sits stock at one notch up. Anyhoo, I didn’t measure before so can’t say for sure what were the ‘lift’ gains.

 

All I’m trying to do is sit level and maybe stiffen the front up a bit, right now the truck is comfortable but on the highway it’s very wafty almost like a boat going through water. I’ll hit I big bump and rebound for like 30 seconds.

 

Your nearly 20 year-old shocks are shot...for your needs, get the 5100s and set them at 1 inch...that will literally stiffen the front a bit, make the truck a bit more level and get rid of the 30 second rebound AND be the most cost effective.

 

Yeah your right. The weird thing is there not weeping at all.