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HID bulbs on Spyder projection headlights?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by rojamon, Nov 25, 2018.

  1. Nov 25, 2018 at 9:27 AM
    #1
    rojamon

    rojamon [OP] New Member

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    I have HID Xenon bulbs on my 2016 Toyota Tundra. I purchased Spyder projection headlights. I would like to use my HID bulbs with the Spyder headlights. Unfortunately, there is no connector for the LED DRL bar. I need to know how to power the LED bar separately? Has anybody done that, or know of a youtube video to show me how?
     
  2. Nov 25, 2018 at 11:18 AM
    #2
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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  3. Nov 25, 2018 at 12:34 PM
    #3
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    @rojamon , Here's what I did. Just an option. I wired my leds and halos via fuse tap to my ignition fuse. They come on when I start truck. Here's a link to tap for information purposes. You can get them from your local auto parts store.

    https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Circuit...ocphy=9009860&hvtargid=pla-403531110127&psc=1

    Let me know if I can help. Good luck
     
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  4. Dec 9, 2018 at 6:28 PM
    #4
    ATrn

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    I'm also looking for a solution to make the LED Bar stay on, so how do you do a tap with the spyder headlight, if you know?
     
  5. Dec 9, 2018 at 10:43 PM
    #5
    Cuzican

    Cuzican New Member

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    If I remember correctly, it's the green wire on the back of the Spyders, unplug the bullet connector/jumper that ties the u-bar into the running light and connect it to an ignition source with a fuse tap.
     
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  6. Dec 10, 2018 at 4:57 AM
    #6
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    @ATrn, just what Chris said above. So you would connect the wiring straight to fuse tap and plug into ignition slot in your fuse box. You will add 2 fuses, 10 amp , could be different on a 3rd gen so double check. Sorry for the cheesy photo edit, but hope it helps.

    20181210_075237.jpg
     
  7. Dec 10, 2018 at 5:43 AM
    #7
    ATrn

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    So would I have to do that with both headlights?
     
  8. Dec 10, 2018 at 5:54 AM
    #8
    Berdine

    Berdine Voodoo Sport

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    Yes, whatever wire that signals the drl have to run to the fuse tap, so both lights will have 1 wire running to it.
     
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  9. Dec 10, 2018 at 6:29 AM
    #9
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Yes, but you can wire everything together. Wire up your passenger and leave enough length to carry you to driver side. Wire everything to fuse tap. Make sure you ground this.
     
  10. Dec 10, 2018 at 7:25 AM
    #10
    ATrn

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    I don't think the wire on the headlight will be long enough to reach the fusebox, so what wire should I use to extend it? Also both cables should be able to fit in the end of the tap, right?
     
  11. Dec 10, 2018 at 9:34 AM
    #11
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    You can use 18g wire.
    I did the samething back when i had the spyder headlights.
    I extended the 12v + wire for the drl only. I left everything else plugged into the factory wiring harness. Basically you want a to power the drl from a different source rather than the factory harness. So ground wire will stay put.
     
  12. Dec 10, 2018 at 9:54 AM
    #12
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    You cut some wire to reach over to your drivers side. 16 ga wire, hopefully @rons
    16-18 ga wire. Cut you a piece long enough to make it over to wiring from driver side led. Essentially your just running a jumper piece of wire to tie in with the rest. Once both led bar wires are together, you will wire to fuse tap. Like Brandon mentioned above, everything should be grounded. It's always good to check, then check again.
     
  13. Dec 10, 2018 at 10:19 AM
    #13
    ATrn

    ATrn New Member

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    Is there a way I can connect the two cables from the headlight without sautering?
     
  14. Dec 10, 2018 at 10:30 AM
    #14
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Yes, you will insert wiring from both headlights into fuse tap and then you will crimp that end piece to secure wiring inside. Sautering is the best way, but really not needed here. Take some pics of the back of your headlights and the wiring of you can.
     
  15. Dec 10, 2018 at 10:33 AM
    #15
    ATrn

    ATrn New Member

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    Can I use a connector when I'm extending the cable from the headlight with the 16 ga to combine the two?
     
  16. Dec 10, 2018 at 10:44 AM
    #16
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    Yes. Crimp connector are ok to use. If you want extra insurance. Put some heat shrink tube over the connector. Seal out any chance of moisture getting in.
     
  17. Dec 10, 2018 at 10:47 AM
    #17
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Yes that's what I use. Butt splice connectors

    m_421005_primary.jpg
     
  18. Dec 10, 2018 at 12:53 PM
    #18
    ATrn

    ATrn New Member

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    I'll see what I can do when I get home from work.

    Thanks for all the help!
     
  19. Dec 10, 2018 at 1:23 PM
    #19
    Berdine

    Berdine Voodoo Sport

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  20. Dec 10, 2018 at 2:26 PM
    #20
    ATrn

    ATrn New Member

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    I have a bunch of speaker wire, would that work?
     
  21. Dec 10, 2018 at 2:35 PM
    #21
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    16-18 ga ;)
     
  22. Dec 10, 2018 at 2:45 PM
    #22
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    The same that's for your ignition, it's a 10 or 15 amp, add the same exact fuse.
     
  23. Dec 10, 2018 at 5:13 PM
    #23
    ATrn

    ATrn New Member

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    Last edited: Dec 10, 2018
    BrandonL812, Berdine and rons23 like this.
  24. Dec 10, 2018 at 7:00 PM
    #24
    Cuzican

    Cuzican New Member

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    These are great, but I have become a big fan of these...
    https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Conne...connector&dpPl=1&dpID=41AVySCrJlL&ref=plSrch#
     
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  25. Dec 10, 2018 at 7:12 PM
    #25
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    I picked up one of those marine heatshrink assirtment box from Harbor freight awhile back, been using it for sometime. I like them, they have the glue that melt and ooze out once shrinked. Work real well.
     
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  26. Dec 10, 2018 at 7:56 PM
    #26
    Cuzican

    Cuzican New Member

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    I've never seen them at my harbor freight, guess I'll have to look harder next time I'm there.
    I just redid a 20' flatbed trailer and after years of dealing with flickering/non-functioning lights, the crap wiring job and cheap connectors they used when it was built, were all replaced with these glue lined marine grade shrink connectors, I don't expect any more problems now.
     
  27. Dec 10, 2018 at 8:02 PM
    #27
    BrandonL812

    BrandonL812 New Member

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    I bought these.
     
  28. Dec 10, 2018 at 8:17 PM
    #28
    Cuzican

    Cuzican New Member

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    I misunderstood, I was thinking you found the heat shrink butt crimps at harbor freight. I got one of those kits off of Amazon, but then I started ordering that stuff off of amazon 10' at a time, I prefer to be able to cut it to the length I need, sometimes I need pieces longer than the kits have in them
     
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