HELP Please PARKING, Tail, & License plate lights not working

Please Help.......I have a 2015 Crewmax that I recently replaced my turn/DRL bulbs with LEDs and installed the resistor kit, the turn/haz fuse blew so I returned everything back to stock and replaced the fuse. I was pulled over this morning to be notified that my tail, license plate lights are all out and once I got to work and began investigating I find no blown fuses that I know go to the lights and find that my front parking lights do not work either. Does anyone know of any other fuses/relays or anything else that would cause this?

 

Did the lights blow out themselves? Inspect the filament?

 

Not sure if driver kick panel has fuses to those lights? Take batt cables off reset dbl check all fuses

 

Yes I inspected the filaments and found none blown.

 

The kick panel? by the parking brake? the tail light fuse is in there and I checked it and that's good.

 

Just throwing all options out there for you

 

Any wires where you connected resistors they grounding?

 

none. I took it all back to stock and covered the wires with electrical tape to prevent any grounding issues.

 

Hopefully someone else knows n chime in, hope it gets resolved

 

Final option, go out buy cheap set of bulbs, slightest lil break in the filament maybe u can't see it??? IDK

 

but would one bulb cause all 6 to go out?

 

I wonder if one of your T - Taps cut one of the wires. what size resistors did you use?

Furthermore, you can’t just stick LEDs into the front signals with amber dtrl, even with resistors. The circuit is more complex than that. Requires a switch back module. At a minimum you’d have to cut or depin the dtrl gray wire under the dash to successfully accomplish what you tried, without a switchback module.

I would test every fuse on lighting circuits with a meter for continuity. I believe there are ones under the dash and up front.

 

I used switchbacks, and I forgot to mantion that my DRLs are still working just fine in the stock config, just not the parking lights. I used the sylvania led load resistor kit that they sell at car parts houses that is supposed to be for that very purpose. I'll be working on it again when I get off work with a buddy in Avionics. Hopefully we can figure it out. Are there any relays that would cause that?

 

Need more info then. How many ohms were the resistors you used and which switchback system did you install?

 

There’s a similar thread like this last year, the solution was replacing more than one fuse, located in both fuse boxes, the one in the cabin by your left foot and the one under the hood, check schematics. Make sure they’re not spontaneously blowing.

Barring that, remove all the bulbs that you played with, double check any wires/connections you altered, and plug in one bulb that you know is working, filament intact, and inserted in the correct polarity.

I’ve used my multimeter to fix my dryer and fridge, great tool. I’d use that as suggested above to find the weak link(s) if the obvious stuff is no go.
Good luck

 

I agree with Josh. the fuses can look fine, but can still be blown. you gotta check with a lamp or meter. there is one you're missing. and there was something wrong with your installation if it was the right switchback system.

 

Do you have stock headlights or did the 2018 LEDs conversion?

I’m asking this because is a common problem with this kind of mod and is because the bulb is now 7444NA, make sure you got the correct bulb the problem with the mentioned bulb is that ground terminal location isn’t the same as 3157CK, so when your parking lights switch is ON the circuit is grounded leaving you without tail lights, that’s why if you do the 2018 LEDs conversion the purple wire must be taken out completely in the turn signal socket not just swapping locations as others suggest, this can be happening without blowing out a single fuse.

 

Also make sure your resistors are t-tapped to the correct wires must be from red (driver side) or pink (passenger side) to white/black striped wire

 

I’ll have to take my meter to it when I get home to tell you the ohms, same with the switchbacks as they’re sitting on a shelf now.

 

I have 2018 SR5 lights in which use all the same bulbs and connections as my 2015. The only difference is they have the LED strip that I have a wire harness for that has the add a fuse and goes direct to the ignition. I have all the correct and normal bulbs installed now (ie 4157A up front and haven’t touched the rear except to check the filaments). The resistor that I installed and removed I did exactly as you said with the red/white-Black driver and pink/white black passenger. When I get home after I get off work I’ll try replacing both fuses again.

 

oh wow small detail there! iHacker nailed it.

 

Make sure the harness you’re using for your LED strip isn’t grounding that violet wire in the center at turn signal socket, just for curiosity if you’re able to do it remove the violet wire and see if this solve your issue

 

If you go to stock bulbs will this correct your problem with tail lights? Because if not problem should be a blown fuse without a doubt

 

It’s not connected anywhere to the turn signals. The harness connects directly to the led strip sockets and goes direct to the ignition fuse under the hood pulling power from there and ground from the chassis. They’re completely independent of the turn/parking/DRLs

 

Not quite. Completely independent of all other bulbs

 

Ok, make sure you got the correct bulb not sure if 4157A is the same as 3157CK which is the one you need,


NA and CK bulbs have ground terminals flipped just see the difference in this picture

 

I’m at all stock bulbs now except for those strips that are in no way connected to any lighting circuit. The strips have been going now since the beginning of January. Just installed the LEDs and didn’t know about the hyperflash stuff and went back and installed the load resistors. That didn’t correct anything really so I removed it all.

 

Ok as others suggested in previous messages check both fuse boxes the main box in engine compartment and the little one under dash near to kick panel

 

That helps but I never changed or touched the brake/tail bulbs only did the front DRLs and then back to stock filament style bulbs because I felt the LEDs weren’t working correctly or to my satisfaction. The 4157A is what was in my truck from the factory in the DRL spots but if you’re saying I should have 3157s then I’ll go get some.