Help me understand the Roadmaster Acvtive Suspension.

I am considering getting the RAS for towing to help with sag and ride. I already have a rear sway bar and an Anderson WDH setup and my trailer is maybe 3500 lbs loaded.

It appears to the the RAS acts as a helper spring or like what an overload leaf spring would do in that it only really kicks in when more weight is applied? I have also read a couple reviews saying that it helped the ride even without towing? Do you think it will help my situation or be of any benefit or be just a wasteful overkill? Also does it lift the rear any or is that dependent on how you adjust it?

 

It does add lift depending on the setting disc that you use. Have you seen the video explanation of how it works?

 

Would certainly help. I run it with stock leafs and RSB. It will lift the rear .5 to one inch, depending on how you set it. White disk is less support, black disk is more and would be about an inch lift. I used a quarter, which was in the middle size wise.

Its great on a Tundra, as the stock leafs are fairly soft and it offer more support, helps stop sag, but no heavy impact to ride like an add a leaf. Get the HD version. I got mine on sale a earlier this year, 500 bucks well spent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUmGX0mxUJU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiSW5BAjSoU

 

Is can you install this without causing a lift in the rear?

 

No.

 

ok thanks. Was hoping for a yes haha!

 

Lol I hear you. Thats the reason I haven't gotten them for mine. I'm already lifted front and rear and sitting level.

 

Why the HD model of the RAS? I have heard a couple people say to get that one.

 

So that you have more support than what you currently need. Better to have more than not enough.

 

For the price difference its a no brainer. $450 for the SD and $500 for the HD. I called to order mine and the guy gave me 10% off and a t-shirt. Definitely a solid upgrade. You wont be disappointed

 

The question of "no lift" was already answered but I'll chime in too since I've installed and used the RAS on a Tundra myself. The coil spring needs to be preloaded for the system to work properly which means you can't set them up for zero lift. The new versions come with discs (different thicknesses) that you stick between the coils to set the preload tension. I used the older style that said to use a dime for 1" lift and a nickel for more lift, so the discs are probably the same thickness as a dime and nickel. My old leaf springs were pretty weak and almost looked like a "W". The RAS put the arch back in the leaf springs. By design, it is meant to help reduce the droop experienced when towing. IT DOES NOT increase your towing capacity though as some people want to claim.

 

so what do you think the Absolute minimum amout of lift that it would add?

 

Same thing on my truck as Eric's perfect description...mostly corrected the W shape of my leafs (probably due to my dumbass putting too much weight in the bed). I say mostly because it definitely corrected the arch in the rear half of the leaf length, but not as much on the front half (some arch restored but probably not as much as how it comes from the factory). Also, I removed my Hellwig rear sway bar, to save some weight, because with just the RAS, it still handles corners with a breeze. You might want to keep a rear sway bar though if you tow a lot...I do not. I hope this helps.

 

I would contact Roadmaster and ask them what minimum recommended preload for your truck would be. But honestly, the RAS is probably just getting an old truck back to the height it was on its birthday, because they naturally drop with age (myself excluded)

 

I don’t have RAS but I wonder if you only did occasional towing/loading if you could set it to a lower setting and then just adjust it when you were getting ready to tow. May be kind of a pain but I don’t know. I would think after you did it a couple of times you would be able to figure out how many turn to get it dialed in for both settings.

Seems like someone on this forum did something similar with Timbren bump stops. They had a set for towing and a set for everyday.

Just thinking out loud here…

 

.5 inch at the lower setting

 

I am considering adding billstein 5100's and setting the front at 1.5 to compensate for the RAS list in the rear and that should put it about level.

 

2" lift in the front, no lift in the rear, makes the 2.5 gen Tundra level (the way the TRD Pro's are). With 1.5" in the front, and adding the RAS, I'm pretty confident you'll still have a little bit of rake and not be completely level. But hey, at least you won't have Carolina squat!!

As an example, I have 3" in the front, 2.25" in the rear (1.75" CB shackle + .5" RAS). Some call my rake a little too aggressive, but I love it. Not too much different from a 3/2 lift kit you can get, which gives a rake. A 3/1 lift is basically level.

 

You can. It is a pain. Because of the fine threads used, it makes process of adjusting tension on the coil spring very slow. Remove as much load from the leaf springs by jacking the rear frame. Once side at a time. If you have rear sway bar, disconnect both linkages to allow for the axle to drop further.

Now, it will be easier to adjust the coil spring via ratchet. Put some thick rags on the surrounding metal areas or wear gloves to protect your knuckles. Not sure about using power tools for this. You stripped the threads and it's history. Use plenty of oil i.e. WD40 or similar. Make sure the threads are clean, free from sand, mud, etc.

You can also remove the tire one side at a time, that way you have more access to the adjusting nut.I can fit under the truck on my back and adjust the tension without removing the tire. Not a comfy position though.

Easy way to remember your settings is to measure the exposed thread starting from the coil spring side all the way to the hook side. So you'll have the unloaded measurement and 1 or more for loaded i.e. different trailers, loads, etc

Hope this helps.

 

I’m not sure if this is the right place to ask, but does the RAS work with the Coachbuilder +1 shackles?

 

Does anyone know if I can run the RAS with Ironman leafpacks?

 

From everything I can find, the Coachbuilder +1 won't work with the RAS. I see comments saying Coachbuilder claims they'll work, but I haven't seen anyone who says they have this set up without modifying the shackles. I just bought the shackles and the RAS before doing enough research. Looks like I'll be sending the shackles back or trying to sell them. I want the RAS more because I tow a travel trailer a lot.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/roadmaster-active-suspension-review.103453/page-3

 

Thanks for the info and link. I already have the +1 installed so I didn’t want to buy new shackles or revert back to stock ones.

 

Did you end up doing this? I have the RAS installed at 20% load and have a noticeable rake, looking for a way to level the front when not towing. I’m considering either the 5100s or Eibach stage 1 kit.

 

i just did 5100 all around, front at the top clip, and RAS in the rear. I have about an inch of rake.

 

I am still saving my discretionary income and thinking about going with the Eibach front shocks.

 

I just got a set of these for free from a friend and he doesn't know if these are HD or standard. I recently got a lightweight truck camper installed it's around 350lbs plus camping gear I'm around 500lbs constant. My front was already lifted 1.5-2" and I'm just trying to get rear back up to at least level or slight rake. Hoping this gets me there! If not, new leaf springs are in order but I figured I'd try this first