HecticEnergy & Friends: detailing LIVE!

Since you have the orbital, you probably havent done it recently but...
is it much harder to work with than the liquid when applying by hand? I imagine its the same process.. get some on the pad, work it over the paint, come back in a bit and buff it off with a MF cloth.
I need to try the BWW again... I did it in the dark when it was super humid and had a hell of a time buffing that shit out...

 

I only use the orbital for clay padding and paint correction. I no longer use it to apply sealant or liquid wax. The pad on the orbital tends to absorb the liquid wax and after it absorbs too much it tends to start slinging wax everywhere. It is much easier to simply apply both of these by hand. Applying paste wax is even easier. Since it's a paste and not liquid, it tends to apply much ore even and thinner.

 

Thanks, Maybe I'll give Pete's 37 a shot instead of the x-seal carnauba

 

I think you'll like Pete's 37. I was pleased with the results. One thing to keep in mind that the longer Pete's sits, the more effort it take to buff off. Work in small sections and buff out with a MF towel directly after applying. You do not need to wait.

 

Tried it out today. The clay bar picked up absolutely nothing after the mitt.

 

Thanks! Awesome!! Ordering tomorrow

 

Orders In! Should be here 7/25.
(...The Prep wash didnt have 2 day shipping option, so I delayed shipping on everything else to "standard"... I kinda need that prep wash...)

Just to make sure I've got this right, here's the process:

Two bucket method:
1) Just water in bucket A.
2) Soap & Water in bucket B.
3) Rinse new area.
4) Dunk mitt and ring out in bucket B.
5) Wash area.
6) Toss mitt in bucket A.
7) Rinse soap off (no pressure, just sheet water over the area)
8) Ring mitt out in bucket A.
9) repeat 3-8 until truck is washed.
Wash from roof down, ending with the grille, then wheels (dirtiest parts last).

Skipping paint correction this time. I dont see any swirl marks, but there is some paint damage that needs to get corrected... another time.
Pressure wash truck (pre-rinse - knock off all the loose stuff - keep buckets of water cleaner)
McKee PrepWash (two bucket with MF Chenille wash pad & grit guards, and dry with XL-MF towel)
Adam's IronX (I'm thinking of just going to do the whole truck this time, but in the future I think I'll probably just do the hood and lower half of the sides)
Rinse with water
Nanoskin (medium) wash mitt - rubber "clay" side - using CG Quick Wipe Detailer as the "clay lube"
McKee's HiDef Sealant - apply whole vehicle, then buff off
Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax
WaxAddict Tyre Conditioner (all external non painted plastic and rubber surfaces)

I'll replace BWW with Pete's '53 on the next go around.. but I spent enough and already have the BWW.

Next week after I get all the stuff will be a trial run for my pre winter wash.

Maintenance wash:
Sheet water (no pressure washer) all over the car
Foam Canon with Mr Pink.
Use wash pad to "push" suds off the car, rinsing the pad off in the bucket for each area as I go.
Use brush on Rims and Tires
Dry
WaxAddict plastics/rubbers (time permitting - hoping for once every 4-6 weeks)
Butter Wet Wax (time permitting) (will probably leave over night before applying BWW.. last time water was escaping from under the mirrors and badges as I was trying to wax)


303 protectant for interior plastic/rubber surfaces
I've got a few Glass Cleaners I'm playing with to see what I want to stick with.
As I've said before, I usually use Invisible Glass, but I've got some SprayAway, RainX 2-in-1 spray, and a bit of CG's glass cleaner I got a few months ago.

I ordered some new MF cloths (still need to get some for glass - low/no pile waffle weave). All the ones I have currently have (Costco) been washed with "All Free&Clear" (probably not the worst) and dried with a Bounce dryer sheet (shit.) usually on low. So I'll keep those for household cleaning (no longer using the dryer - they air dry in under hour after spin) and keep the new ones in the detail box and wash them in a bucket with MF cleaner (probably not the best, but I dont want to get wax and such in my washer). I'll probably run them through the washer every once in a while (maybe every 6 months) then clean the hell out of the washer, just so they get a good solid cleaning every once in a while.

Still need to figure out what leather cleaner/conditioner I want to go with, I havent put much thought into that yet, but Luxor was suggested somewhere on this forum. I'll probably start with that and see what I think. I thought I saw 303 had a leather cleaner, so I may check that out too... some other time...

Thanks for all the input! Feel free to correct me where I'm wrong, or suggest alternative products for next time

 

As far as leather cleaner, I've had good luck with Wolfgang products...pricey, but they've worked well for me. When you get done with HiDef, the paint will be so slick that Spiderman couldn't hang on to the side. You can leave it on a while, unless you're pressed for time.

 

Looks good. I don’t know about just using water for clay lube. I always just use whatever quick detail spray I have on hand.
Washing the towels - I always put some white vinegar in the bleach resovoir. It helps flush the chemicals out of the washing machine. It also helps keep the towels absorbent. I use it with bath towels also.

Check out wheel woolies for cleaning your wheels. They’re pretty nice.

 

I only have leather in my wife’s truck. I’ve had success with Chemical Guys leather detailing spray.

 

Missed that...do not use water as a clay lube. I've seen Larry Kosilla use soapy water, I'd recommend a quick detailer such as Griots Speed Shine

 

Good tip!
I clean one panel at a time. I've used a bucket of soap recently, and I can get my target section done in one "dunk" (hence just tossing it in the water bucket while I rinse off the soap and rinse the next area). I work in relatively small areas as washing the truck in the middle of Saturday, I cant go far without the soap starting to dry on me. The roof and the hood are probably my largest areas.
Using the foam cannon I'm going to try washing half the truck at the time... also start washing earlier (saturday morning instead of saturday afternoon - the house should be blocking the sun at that point).

 

I'll give the vinegar trick a shot. The wheel woolies are now in my "save for later." Thanks!

I'll fix that - thanks!
I'm not exactly sure where I saw the "clay on rinse" maybe I was thinking of the soapy water - I've got some CG "Speed Wipe Quick Detailer", think that'll work?

 

I think so. I’ve used several kinds with no issues.

 

Give it a good wash ,then dry after clay and before sealant. You could also use an 85:15 water: ipa (isopropyl alcohol) mix or something like carpro eraser before sealant just to be sure you've got it really clean and grease free.
On second thought....thats Probably not totally needed if you're not polishing but wont hurt.

 

Sorry, I'm confused.

You're saying:
Wash & Dry (strip soap)
IronX
Rinse
Nanoskin Mitt w/ detail spray
+Wash & Dry (Strip Soap?) OR (also usually means "in addition to" so not sure if that's an AND or an OR) 5.5 parts water (85%) to 1 part ipa OR CarPro Eraser
Sealer
Wax


Your second thought: None of that is necessary? or just the ipa solution / Eraser?

I'm not polishing, dont think it needs it, but I'll find out after I seal and it looks like shit LOL
I'm doing it now so if i screw something up I can fix my process before fall.. a lot fewer rain days here now vs fall/winter.

 

Was just saying you wanna wash it in between clay and sealant, you can use normal car washsoap. Its to get all the clay residue off. Something like carpro eraser would be final wipe down before sealant but you can probably skip that step

 

It would be carpro eraser OR an ipa mixture. Not both of them. Purpose is to really get off any residue left by any of your other steps.

 

I was confused about the first two options -
carwash OR ipa
carwash then ipa

 

using the nanoskin do i need to wash? I was thinking it'd be the cleanest it's ever been after the nano skin... but i guess there may be some residue from the detail spray?
if i wash it with Mr Pink (normal car wash soap) it has conditioners in it that are designed to be left behind (chemical spot free rinse and such). I wouldnt want to seal on top of that, right?
If i was going to wash, I'd think I'd want to wash with the residue killer, not something that's going to leave residue behind (conditioners).

Thanks for the thoughts. I'm trying to understand the logic.. I have a better chance of remembering things when I understand them

 

Yeah I read it again and its confusing

My plan for when I get time is similar to your plan with bold being extras

Wash
Dry
IronX
Rinse - gets IronX off
Clay with clay lube/detail spray
Wash - gets clay residue off
Dry
Polish with megs untimate w/ DA polisher
Then ipa or eraser -I have eraser on hand
Sealant

I think anyway. Now I'm getting confused.

 

That's a good point about the nanoskin. I'll also be using that instead of real clay. I still think you want to wash off the detailing spray/lube and any loose contaminants.

I can't comment on mr pink, I use maxisuds2 and didnt know about conditioners to be honest. I guess dawn soap would be just fine in that case.

 

I've done some paint correction and plenty of detailing and I'm a fan of Meguiar's line of products. They have a number of various grit cutting compounds that work extremely well when doing paint correction/scratch removal. They seem more consistent and predictable than some of the other brands. I also like Griot's correcting, finishing and waxing pads. I use a Porter Cable 6" random orbit sander/polisher (don't use the polishing pad that comes w/it - it sucks). I bought a hook & loop attachment for the Griot's pads. Griot's also has a clear interior spray that I love and is good on fabrics. For removing emblem/badge/sticker residue I use 3M Auto | Advanced Adhesive Remover (03618).

 

I guess it depends on what's in the detail spray...

Some one was saying not to use dawn to wash the car... I'll have to dig it up later.

Seems like the best way to go after "clay" or polish would be some sort of spray with a few MF's to wipe up (constantly changing out what part of the rag you're using.. or grabbing a new one so you arent just moving shit from one spot to another, but actually cleaning it up). Unless you're washing in distilled water, it seems like I'd just be filling the "pours" i just cleaned out with the "clay" with shit from my hard as hell water. Maybe something like the eraser (I dont have on hand) or like a Distilled water and ipa solution is the best approach to clean up before sealing.

Also, I dont have a leaf blower, or an infinite supply of rags for drying the vehicle (though I did just order 2 that will be replacing the one I have...), so I'd likely be reusing those. Sure, they should be wiping down a clean car so shouldn't get too dirty, but I imagine it will still pickup some contaminants.

I just reread their description.. It's a "Shampoo." Designed to "lift, capture and lubricate dirt and grime" so you can wipe it off without damaging your paint work. Seems largely the copy for maxi suds and mr pink is copied and pasted, so I'm guessing the chemistry behind them are extremely similar.

 

I dont have an power polisher. Probably wont for a while lol

For removing sticker residue WD40 does the trick for me (immediately followed by a quick rinse and area wash) - and I've usually got some of that laying around I like products I can use for more than one thing... I'm excited about that 303 protectant...

 

Love 303, so versatile.
I'm gonna get some 303 fabric guard at 640pm tonight on Amazon prime day deals. I also ordered a bottle of their multipurpose cleaner. Good stuff.

 

I thought I saw someone saying it's all the same stuff, just put in different bottles for marketing purposes.. but dont quote me on that.
I saw it went on sale after I purchased it... oh well, they can have the extra $3 lol

 

I use that as well from time to time, but I've found that products that do a particular task usually work at least a little better than the multi-taskers. The 303 has been sitting around for a while because of that. It's a nice backup to have though when you run out of something.

 

Wouldn't surprise me in the least. There are only so many chemicals that you can use on certain finishes and materials, so my guess is that they're all using a lot of the same stuff in different percentages - at least until you get into the high-end leather treatment stuff that has the $$$ ingredients. Still not sold on that, but then again I've never owned a Bentley.