Heavy Duty Tailgate Cap

Instead of trying to have the plate bend over the back side you could simply extend the plate a little further so it protrudes slightly past the rear panel. Basically just add another 1/2”.

It’d also give you a little lip to help lift the tailgate up.

Doing this on my phone but extend the top surface to the red line. No complex bend needed.

 

I could pay big bucks to get dies machined and have them stamped, but we'd still be very limited on material thickness. On top of all that, the post processing and deburring costs would be astronomical.

Another option is to cut a separate piece and form it by hand as it's TIG welded on. Unfortunately it's such a small lip (approx. 3/8" inside), that it would have to be be welded very slowly and carefully to avoid warping. At about 64", that is A LOT of welding and time.

 

I bet extending the top part over the lip area without adding a complex bend would resolve the aesthetic concern for most people. Plus it might be more functional.

 

That was a feature that was definitely considered.

We opted not to do that because the protrusion becomes a potential hazard and ultimately at that thickness, it just doesn't feel great on your fingertips. If it stuck out a bunch, it would help with the grip/feeling but it becomes even more of a hazard.

These decisions were made based on our experience with user-centered/human factors design/engineering.

That being said, we are exploring an alternative that may suit Tundras.com members needs and wants a bit better.

 

We tried this.

While it looked cleaner, the protrusion really encouraged the tendency to use it as a fingertip lifting point.

This is really not a great behavior to repeat and can lead to injury. It also just didn't feel great when you wrapped your hand over the tailgate.

Buuut...like I mentioned previously, we are listening and want to develop a good product that makes Tundras.com members happy, so a lighter duty version 2 is in the works.

 

I like the product as displayed. I have atv ramps that could rest on the inside edge when the tailgate is down and not claw into,the tailgate or plastic top. How far down does the lip go down into the bed on the inside? I would probably buy as-is.

 

Never mind, I see it now on the first page. Again I like the way it is currently designed.

 

I like 3/16. Will work great for hauling sticks of DOM. I’ll get it bed lined and it’ll match great!

 

@WSDMetal
Could you have longer mounting hardware, such that one could keep the oem plastic cap, and just bolt this on top?
That would in effect solve the question about the lip role to back of the truck.

I agree with others on the 1/8 vs 3/16.

 

This may interfere with tonneau covers, since the tailgate would be higher than the bed sides. Not a bad idea, though!

 

True..it could, but the plastic cap is 1/16 -1/8 thick.
If they switch from 3/16 material to 1/8, then you’re talking about 1/16 difference between removing plastic cap and using the 3/16 steel vs. leaving plastic cap and adding 1/8 steel.

I ran the extang cover for several years, which has the spring loaded, adjustable handles (although I have it off now since I have an ARE cap current on the truck).

The extang rubber seals have always had great coverage and flex. Even when shut, you could pull up on it the slightest bit at the tailgate. I imagine even with an added 1/8” of material height would not inhibit the tonneau from closing. Just my thots tho.

 

same, interested as shown.

 

I just measured the height of my plastic over the metal and its exactly 3/16 to the top. I also have a sliding cover and these were my immediate thoughts.

 

Thanks for measuring. I was going to do the same.
The extang I have is the trifold. I didn’t think about the sliding covers.

 

Great idea and quality looks great.

I don't think I've seen anyone ask this, but how much does it weigh? I'm guessing the 11 to 13 pound range.

Could the added weight wear out the tailgate assist mechanisms? Might want to get a scale to measure how much more force is used to pick the tailgate up with this guard on versus how much force is used without the guard. (there's a lot of old guys on here )

And as everyone else has stated, an aluminum option. Especially since the price of steel is going up.

 

When will these be for sale?

 

These do in fact exceed the factory tailgate assist spring rating. You should hold onto the tailgate to gently lower it until the cables support it.

There is a lighter duty aluminum version being made as we speak. This version is for those who need something more robust and are able to support the added weight.

They are available now!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/heavy-duty-2014-2021-tundra-tailgate-cap.85897/#post-2165959

 

Sweet, I PM'd you.

 

We're now including 2 optional Tie-Down Loops with every order, free of charge!

They're great for securing loads that rest on top of your tailgate and/or securing ramps when loading motorcycles and other equipment.

 

So I was just cutting cement board today on my tailgate and thought of this product. I didn't think I'd have a need for it before but now it seems like I would benefit from things not tearing up my tailgate. I like the idea of an aluminum option. Don't want to fuss with the tailgate assist or have to assist it down.

 

Do you offer a full aluminum kit. A skid plate on back?

 

Found this thread searching for a new cap that can pair with an interior solid panel. But I run a Diamondback tonneau and the 3/16 is overkill. Maybe a 12 gauge thickness would be plenty even for the heavy duty hauling over the gate especially with that interior rollover. i'd want an external roll or bend as well but with that curve I could see the costs skyrocketing.

 

I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, this is mostly for the other posters here.

5052-H32 is basically the go-to aluminum alloy for sheet metal forming (forms and punches very easily). Not very durable for mechanical loads in your application. 6061-T6 is much stiffer and somewhat difficult to bend but can be done with increased bend radii. Extremely durable and inherently corrosion resistant, any second-op finish would be needed mostly for cosmetics. Even with somewhat smaller than recommended bend radii, the slight material separation on the external radius is mostly cosmetic and generally does not adversely effect strength. In your case the bend is not loaded structurally anyway so there should be no concerns there (and could be covered with powder coating or Line-X anyway). Recommend staying with 3/16" thick unless forming becomes an issue. Retired R&D Mechanical Engineer here.

Dan