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Head gasket failure..or loose bolt?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Kapco78, Mar 21, 2020.

  1. Mar 22, 2020 at 12:46 PM
    #31
    empty_lord

    empty_lord New Member

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    You have to put the service bolt In the sprocket. Otherwise your cam will fall apart at the gear
     
  2. Mar 22, 2020 at 1:24 PM
    #32
    landphil

    landphil And this is my toilet pool.

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    Make that the i-Force! :D
     
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  3. Mar 22, 2020 at 1:24 PM
    #33
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    Exactly
     
  4. Mar 22, 2020 at 1:31 PM
    #34
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    We'll...this is for a different engine, but the first part explains the two gear issue. Looks like I'm good to remove it. I'll have o set it correct when it goes back in. I can make a tool for this no problem. Sweet!!
    https://youtu.be/92yoyI_bML4
     
  5. Mar 22, 2020 at 2:56 PM
    #35
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Cam came out fine...nothing came apart as per the video.will need to align it and use the service bolt on assy. Head is nearly off...looks like I know why the bolt is loose....broken head bolt. The broken piece was sticking out of the block about 1/4". I was able to grab it and spin it out..Lucky!!!
     
  6. Mar 22, 2020 at 3:03 PM
    #36
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    The engine has most likely been over heated and the head is most likely warped. That’s the only why I can think that bolt would break , unless someone over tightened it trying to get the head gasket to stop leaking . This keeps getting more interesting! Lol
     
    Filthyphil and jtwags like this.
  7. Mar 22, 2020 at 3:46 PM
    #37
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    55k. Based on the cam gears being out of align...I'm guessing someone who had no clue what they were doing was in side this head. The big question is....was the broken bolt the cause or the effect ..
    Head is off, just cleaning up the block and head surfaces. Need to find me a straight edge....
     
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  8. Mar 22, 2020 at 5:05 PM
    #38
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    Good thing it was a good deal .
     
  9. Mar 22, 2020 at 6:49 PM
    #39
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN ...

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  10. Mar 22, 2020 at 8:19 PM
    #40
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Just some random thoughts as I sip a crown and coke...someone had to get to the point of removing the exhaust camshaft causing the gears on the exhaust camshaft to unwind and do who knows what in there. Then put it all back together but put that old shit timing belt back on!! It's a mystery. Hopefully I can get a straight edge tomorrow from Lee Valley and I can check the block and head. I'm guessing the block will be ok being steel. The head...I bet is warped. I used a very inaccurate aluminum level and a 0.006" feeler and there was a few spots it appears it would slip under. Totally not accurate and can't be used as a proper check...but there was a noticable dip near the cooling jackets between the cylinder bores closer to the outside of the head .
     
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  11. Mar 22, 2020 at 9:01 PM
    #41
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Some specs for the heads for people following this. Basically 0.004 allowable maximum
     
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  12. Mar 22, 2020 at 9:09 PM
    #42
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Attached specs . Looks like it's out by a decimal. 0.1mm =0.0039, NOT 0.039 lol

    Screenshot_20200322-223151_Drive.jpg
     
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  13. Mar 22, 2020 at 9:21 PM
    #43
    Kapco78

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    Here is what I have done on other motors. I like using a piece of glass since they are typically dead flat...within 0.001 or better typically. Just need a good straightedge. Typically I do it until I see no dark spots left (low) and call it good. But it's time to get one now I guess..

    https://youtu.be/ad5ZnbzWP9s
     
  14. Mar 23, 2020 at 6:49 AM
    #44
    specter208

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    I’m saving money to get a used 4.0 myself. I believe 05-06 Tundras can get donor motors from up to 2011 MY single VVT-I vehicles. I would need at least $800 to replace timing chain, tensioners, sprockets, new head gasket and various other seals on my 330k mike engine. I found some original condition motors with 90day warranties nearby for around $2k.
     
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  15. Mar 23, 2020 at 5:51 PM
    #45
    Bergmen

    Bergmen New Member

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    Man, that is a civil war surplus timing belt if there ever was one!

    Dan
     
  16. Mar 25, 2020 at 5:20 PM
    #46
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Ok...some good news. I cleaned up the head and block surfaces and removed all old gasket material. My straightedge is ground to 0.00015 over 12", so so trust it. Went and checked both the head and the block and there are a couple spots that a 0.002 will pass and a 0.003 won't. So I am calling the head and block good. Well worth getting the bar because my other methods made the head look worse then it was. Looks like I just need to clean the head up, new gasket, assemble things back together properly. Not sure I want to touch the other side...I may just remove the valve cover and take a look first before deciding.
     
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  17. Mar 25, 2020 at 10:22 PM
    #47
    landphil

    landphil And this is my toilet pool.

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    I’d pull the other head, but I like to do things the hard/right way. It’s often the same thing.
     
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  18. Mar 27, 2020 at 11:22 PM
    #48
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    I’d also do them both , I’ve been bit to many times ! But that’s up to you ?
     
  19. Mar 28, 2020 at 7:32 AM
    #49
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN ...

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    We need updates!!
     
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  20. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:08 PM
    #50
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    We'll..not many updates to report...waiting for my parts to arrive. Head and Block are prepped and ready for new parts. Will be installing when parts arrive. Those dang exhaust manifolds are rusty and crap. Found a set of stainless headers for $100. Going to put them on. My plan is to reassemble the drivers side before I tear down the passenger side. I want to make sure I don't run into any surprises that I need to watch for before I start on the other side.
     
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  21. Mar 28, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #51
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    Does ARP have a stud kit for the head bolts ???
     
  22. Mar 28, 2020 at 3:01 PM
    #52
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    Not that I could find. Only the 5.7L they have.
     
  23. Mar 28, 2020 at 5:57 PM
    #53
    empty_lord

    empty_lord New Member

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    Supra store has head studs last I checked.
    Hell they have full dry sump oil systems for building beasts
     
  24. Mar 29, 2020 at 7:28 AM
    #54
    Kapco78

    Kapco78 [OP] New Member

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    EL, I found the stud kit on Supra store. It's a performance kit from ARP. But at $275US that's almost $400 CAD...that's not happening. I'll get some new bolts, but I don't think a stud kit is in my future.
     
  25. Mar 29, 2020 at 11:02 AM
    #55
    55kcement

    55kcement New Member

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    You got a budget I get it . We all have one .
     

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