Having a misfire but can't locate anyone with same problem

resistance is going down as temp goes up.

A good trick is to also test it in a bowl of ice water as you know that will be 32F. Its possibe for thermistors to be good at a particular temp but be out of whack compared to their design curve. So having multiple readings is a good idea.

Although Im not sure how the coolant temp is leading to a misfire on only one side.

 

I couldn't locate a denso coolent temperature sensor online or at autoparts stores so I bought a delphi

 

I don't neither bit it says in the its one of the causes for a misfire

 

Do you have any weird pops or backfires?

 

Sometimes I can here a pop out the exhaust if I rev it up and down fast. But I don't remember at idle or a steady high rpm

 

So I pulled out the crank sensor and tested it. It had a like a real fine black soot stuck to it when I pulled it out. Here's the reading I get. Can you tell me if I have it set to the right ohms? I get weird readings on the others and at 2k I get nothing.

 

Looks like practically a short to me. You've got the meter set to continuity. Is it beeping?

 

No beeping

 

What should I set it to

 

It might be right. Set it to 200; you should see the same value if it’s correct.

If those are commas in the spec, put it to 2k ohm reading instead.

 

I put to 2k and it quickly flashes 1,800 the goes to 1. And won't read anything. This was yhe black stuff that was stuck to when I pulled it . Turns to like black ash when you rub it between your fingers

 

That means you’re not getting good continuity for the reading. Try cleaning it with some q-tips and 90% alcohol (the contacts). That is just metal, right?

 

If the alligator clips touch it beeps

 

It's like fiber stick to your finger but turns to black powder

 

That's what it should do in continuity mode, so that's good. a -1- with no other digits usually means Open, as in no continuity at all, infinite resistance. Try cleaning the contacts as Jack suggested.

 

Alright thanks

 

Well its been awhile. Pretty much put it on hold. Today I took the driver side injectors out and swapped them with the pass side and it went from p301,303,305,307 to 302,304,and 306. So I'm gonna a call it and say I have dirty injectors or bad ones. Does anyone know a good injectors shop in southern California. Im located in riverside ca

 

This is great info, thanks! There are some places you can send them for sonic cleaning but I don’t know of anyone near you.

 

Well spoke to soon still got misfire on all driver side .so the only left is compression test or take it apart to see if it jumped a tooth on the timing belt. Unless someone else gots a better ideal. Oh yeah I changed the fuel pump too with denso

 

That is the next step, obviously you need to check timing. Here. Check the marks. Just need to move covers enough to see marks. And obviously check for issues with the belt.

I think a compression test is overkill until you know the timing is correct. If it's off by a tooth, you're gonna get wack results. But if the belt has stretched or jumped, you need to understand why, in case the timing belt is on the verge of failing.

I'm going to toss something out there. Don't discount the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel damper. These are not exactly cheap parts to replace. I'd suspect the regulator more than the damper.

 

Well I took the covers off and the pass is right on the driver's is off by a inch and it looks like the beltway falling apart. Alot of black fuzzy stuff . Toyota brand belt didn't last very long. Had the dealer do it like 50 to 60 thousand miles ago

 

There's the marks at tdc i don't know if you can see it but its full of that black fuzzy shit, guess from the belt

 

Get this AISIN TB kit. Can’t tell but may want to get cam and crank seals in case they are leaking
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529

 

DO NOT crank the engine any more. DO NOT let anyone start the truck until this situation is rectified (belt service complete).

DO go buy a lottery ticket because you're the luckiest SOB I've seen on here in months.

That belt is about to snap. Something is not right. If you cannot change the timing belt yourself, you need to tow it to a shop and have them do it, and make sure they understand, the timing belt is literally coming off the truck.

Bryan posted the kit you need. Don't buy it from fleaBay or scAmazon.

When was the last time the belt was done?!

Nevermind, 30k miles ago. The person who did the work either didn't actually change the timing belt, or they used shitty aftermarket parts, or they didn't replace the tensioner, and/or tensioner pulleys while in there. YIKES!

(this is why we tell people to never use aftermarket belts!!)

 

I took it toyota dealer about 50 to 60 thousand miles ago and had them change it. Now im wondering if they really replaced it.

 

Is the belt supposed to be as wide as the pulley?

 

Yes. Yours appears to be walking off of the cam gears. Do not try to drive or start it.

 

You have a bad idler or your tensioner is crooked, somehow. Something is very wrong.

I wouldn't start it until you get that situation fixed.

There's a thick washer between the timing belt tensioner and the engine where it mounts. I wonder if it made its way back on during the timing belt relacement. Your belt won't track exactly right if that's missing.

Assuming the crank was not rotated in your pictures, you are off two teeth. That'll do it.

 

This is where I got mine cleaned for $25 a pc 4 years ago with new seals

in Torrance California



I see you might have found your problem tho with the belt

 

Well I bit the bullet and ordered the timing. Belt kit and swapped it out last weekend. So far its running great again. The belt was half the width of the new one. Couldn't figure what was eating it up but that was the problem. Thanks everyone for your help