Has anyone upgraded the dash speakers?

im not arguing anything, simply pointing it out as an option for (OP) seeking input. if the cross overs are in the cabin (not doors) running the wires to dash corners is a non-event. Some prefer crossovers to not be in the doors, mine arent. both methods have the same end result, functioning tweeters. some sets are not going to fit without copious amounts of butyl, hot glue and cutting the jbl panel. the dash corners offer lots of room, secure mounting and space to aim. im sure the sail panels work great, but it's not one size fits all.

and put down your drill. there is no need to drill anything when running wires into the doors. plenty of wires can be fished right through with the factory bundle, no drilling needed.

i wasnt looking to debate, just pointing out an option.

 

In more than one video online it is mentioned that running wires through the door requires drilling, but even if it doesn't it is still a lot of work to fish all those lines and make it look good. Can you show me where I said it wasn't an option? No, you can't. Can you show me where I discouraged someone from doing something (IE. Don't do it that way)? No, you can't. I simply stated the FACTS that doing your method is more work. Actually the OP's question was has anyone upgraded their dash speakers which you stated you had and then stated it wouldn't require visual mods as if installing tweeters in the sail panel would require it. I stated it wouldn't require visual modification. The OP already said he had replaced his tweeters and installed them in the sail panel, he only wanted to know if anyone had replaced the dash speaker in addition to the tweeters and it turned into this. Look your way is fine, but it is more work to do, that is all I am saying. Adding new dash speakers after putting in new tweeters in the sail panels (as the OP said he is considering) is likely not going to be that much of an upgrade, that you would probably agree with no?

 

Okay

 

I'm finishing my install and I rewired the whole truck, Speakers, amp, HU and SUB are all aftermarket.
I set the front crossovers next to the amp under front seat (so I can adjust them 0/+3db) and from there ran one wire to inside door for the 6.5 and another wire up to the dash tweeter. Repeat on passenger side.
I don't like having my crossover inside the door where it is being open and close all the time where components could break plus I wanted to be able to adjust or upgrade without having to remove the door panel again.
I also sound matted the doors.

 

I want to go three way 6x9 on the front doors wired to an amp and Dome tweeters on the dash wired directly to my pioneer hu

 

I did an active 3-way in the front with passive rear fill. Fronts are Focal 165 KR2 Power up front in stock locations and the 4" mid from the Focal 100 KRS in the dash locations. They had to cut the removable dash panels out for the 4" diameter, but it sits flush. The rears are Focal 165 KR in the stock locations...all powered by two JL HD 600/4's. Sub duty is thew JL Crewmax Stealthbox on JL 750/1. OEM headunit to PAC AMPPRO 4 with Toslink to JL TwK 88 for processing.

This was recent so I'm working on it. Have True RTA with 1/6th octave resolution for the tuning. 3 way active is not easy to phase align, particularly when your point sources are so spread out.

 

When you replaced your dash speakers, did you have to splice the wires or was there a harness you used to connect them? I just bought the Alpine psu-300tnd, along with some Alpine dash tweeters, and front and rear door Alpine R series speakers.

 

I wired all my speakers, there's no drilling required, the rear are a bit more challenging but doable, the front ones are wide often, the dash, fish the wire from the top. The dash, if using factory wiring, just unplug the harness, then unsolder the harness from the speaker, I would use a different bass blocker than the factory one.

 

What I used:
Kicker 43CSC354 CSC35 3.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers - 4-Ohm (Original Version)

KICKER CSC 3.5" (89mm) COAXIAL Speakers, 4-OHM (Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDJC7NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zu3qDbBEP9C3Z
Kicker CSC65 6.5" 2 Way 300W 4 Ohm Coaxial Car Audio Speakers, Pair | 43CSC654

$70 KICKER CSC 6.5" (160mm) COAXIAL Speakers, 4-OHM (Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MATSH7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Aw3qDb3BGAYNG
Kicker 43CSC6934 CSC693 6x9 3-Way Speaker Pair

KICKER CSC 6x9" (160x230mm) 3-Way Speakers, 4-OHM (Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7MVBJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4A3qDbXSV1B3P
And bass blocker for dash speakers

$17 AUDIOPIPE 5.25" 6.5" 99 UF BASS BLOCKERS 400Hz @ 4 OHM 5-1/4" 6-1/2" 4 PCS

AUDIOPIPE 5.25" 6.5" 99 UF BASS BLOCKERS 400Hz @ 4 OHM 5-1/4" 6-1/2" 4 PCS

 

The 3.5” ones are for the small ones on the back door?

 

I put the kicker cs 3.5’s in the dash corners and they sound GREAT!! Also put kicker cs 6x9’s in the front doors! I haven’t done the back doors yet though

 

Awesome thanks I have some 6X9s for the front just need to order the rear and those 3X5s. Was the install easy? Or you had someone do it?

 

It’s easy! I did it all in the driveway in less than an hour

 

Just an FYI, a lot of head units now days can be set to run a 4 channel active crossover. Meaning you don't need the crossover that comes with the component sets.

Or a 4 channel amp with a bandpass crossover.

Or even better, Dayton audio recently released a DSP for less than $200. With that you can shop for raw drivers (speakers) that cost a fraction of the price that are above and beyond most car audio brands.

The most expensive piece in a component set is almost always the crossover. With the right head unit, or the Dayton DSP, you won't need the crossover. You can also shop brands like Seas, Scan Speak, Satori (those 3 brands make world class speakers), SB Acoustics (SB acoustics has drivers that are incredible for reasonable prices. They also are the OEM for arc audio's black series component's).

For a 2 tweeter, 2 mid front stage setup with the Dayton DSP.... You could have a fantastic front stage with a respectable amount of tuning for $400-$450 and it would be comparable to a lot of car audio component set (and no dsp) twice that price.

There are other more budget friendly options too that are still really good. A set of Silverflute mids for $60. Then for under $40 a set of Peerless(vifa) xt25 tweeters.

That's a legit front stage speaker set up for around a $100.

Dayton DSP 408 for $150

Soundqued s4-100 four channel amp $170. A proven 100 watts and up per channel.

That's a hell of a budget build. Every bit is proven gear.

All that said, brands like Hurtz, Arc Audio, Focal ect.. Are amazing, but there are a lot of equally good offerings if you shop for raw drivers.

 

Which are the dash corners? Do you have a pic? Sorry lol kept thinking it was the small ones on back doors

 

Here's a pic, but you imagine my tweeter pods are not there. The stock speakers would be right underneath mine facing up.

 

Ohhh didn’t even know that was there...i have this on dash is it a speaker also?

 

Is that in the center of your dash?
If so, and depending on the audio package you have, that would be the center channel speaker.

 

Yes center of dash. No idea what audio package I even have. Just know it sucks and im going to replace them all at least front and rear for now.

 

Do you know the part number for the adapter by any chance?

 

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=532&categoryId=32

And here's another link.

$25 ASC Audio 6x9 to 6+-Inch 6" 6.5" Front Door Speaker Install Adapter Plates + Speaker Harness Combo - Compatible Vehicles and Restrictions Listed Below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB9XM7V/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hcFrDbW417PZR

Id recommend giving the guys a call from the first link. They have a great reputation with everyone from here that has bought audio equipment from them. They have a ton of happy customers here on these forums. But if you prefer Amazon, then check out the second link.

 

Thank you so much

 

Dash corners, back are 6.5.

 

I have the 400hz bass blocker on the dash corners,I'm not using any lp/hp on the hu nor the amp and it sounds like a symphony. If you chose to use these functions, use it on the amp only, and whatever you do, don't do it on both at the same time.

 

Man, that is an excellent looking system. Does the jl twk work with REW file types?
If so that gives you another reliable option for RTA'ing you frequency responses.
Either way, sounds like a nice challenge. Difficult but extremely satisfying... Well, I'd image at least. I haven't tackled a 3 way front stage yet.

I feel like you probably already know about REW, but for those who don't, its a free program that is used to help with tuning your system. That being a very simplified explanation.

Other than the Software, which is free, a calibrated microphone (minidsp mic is an option) and a laptop are needed.

Oh, and patience. There's a lot of way to apply the needed corrections.

 

Sorry so long getting back to you. I have TrueRTA that I use to tune. I have a Beringer mic that I use with it. Can’t remember the model number. I’ve made a few changes so I need to get back and do some tuning.

I’m not sure about file compatibility. I think your head unit needs to be able to convert that information. I know the stock headunit won’t do it. The TWK only has a 24/48 DAC in it and there isn’t much of a selection of head units with digital outputs but I’m still looking for the right one. I wish Kenwood would make one.

Digital from phone, back to analog by the factory headunit, back to digital by the PAC Ampro, then back to analog by the TWK. Ideally, I only want that to happen once...digital to analog at the TWK.

 

The Joying android head units now have digital outputs.
https://www.joyingauto.com/catalogsearch/result//?q=Intel dsp
Might not be what you're looking for but they did really step up their new gear recently.

 

Just curious how you got that kicker 6x9 to fit in the front doors? I bought the speakers off Amazon and they are too deep, hit the window tracks. Did you do some custom stuff? Or was there an adapter?

I have a 19 with the non jbl premium sound system. I put the little kickers in the dash no problem and will get some 6.5 for the back doors, but I would like 6x9s in the front doors if possible.

 

You need speaker adapters like these,
07-13 Tundra

$25 ASC Audio 6x9 to 6+-Inch 6" 6.5" Front Door Speaker Install Adapter Plates + Speaker Harness Combo - Compatible Vehicles and Restrictions Listed Below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB9XM7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mgdFDb1BCJSBB

I just picked a common size, you'll need to double check to see if they are the right size for your particular speakers.

Edit: those are only for the front doors. The rears are a different adapter.