Has anyone put Sumo Springs on 3rd Gen?

I put a set of black on my 23 limited TRDOR. I have a Decked box with some tools and camping gear, a steel CBI bed rack, a folding soft cover roof top tent, and a 270 awning. At rest the SumoSprings are barely touching the axle. I haven't been off road with it yet, but can tell an improvement when hitting speedbumps, dips in road, etc. at speed. Less bounce and better support for the weight. I don't have a great before pic from the same angle but these are close. I did trade my 20s for the 18s as soon as I got back from Big Bend and got the SS about a week later.

Before:


After:


Side by side, left is before right is after:

 

@Raven67 you were right. Easy as pie. Printed instructions were wrong though, they say 14mm, it's actually 12mm ratchet/wrench needed. I didn't jack the truck up and didn't pull the wheels. No need!

 

UPDATE: Blue Sumos did make a difference! No squat anymore. Ride loaded/unloaded essentially the same. I think the Sumos were a good call and I'm happy!

 

All I just bought the Black versions for my 2022 Limited. There is also a 25% discount for BlackFriday for the next few days.
Hope my engine holds while I test them!

 

I am leaning towards getting a set of these. Any of you have the factory lift kit and have the Sumo springs installed? I am curious if I will need a spacer.

 

Just fitted my black versions. On my 2022 Limited Standard, I have a Leer shell on. With the Sumo's fitted I have about 1/2 inch gap between them and the axel. Without them or the shell I suspect the gap between the frame and the axel would be about 7 inches, discounting the OEM bump stop. Not sure what the gap would be on a lifted truck and how that would affect using Sumo's.

 

I think I will be going with Dobinsons
Pro rated springs in the rear.

This is the reply I got from Sumo about using these with the factory lift…


Hello Justin here,

Since your vehicle is a work truck, I would recommend the SSR-631-47. However, since you have a 3" lift there will be more of a gap than we recommend. This kit does not allow for spacers as it is designed for stock height vehicles

 

Well, I installed the fronts a few weeks back and love the sportier handling and absorption of vibrations on gravel. Ordered the rears to minimize sag when loaded down / towing.

it’s definitely an easy install for both. However, I overtorqued the side rear driver side bolt and snapped it…

Will do my research but open to any suggestions as I need to
1. Confirm the factory bolt and get it ordered - it’s a weird 12mm with the taper at the end that goes into the frame.
2. Figure out how the hell to get the broken bolt threads out of the current hole easily. So tight in there I’m hesitant to do any dremmeling to get a small flat head in there and risk frame damage.

ideas from the Tundras brain trust are welcome…

as of now I only have the bottom 2 bolts secure on the drivers side which will have me taking it easier in my truck than I want to until I get it resolved. I also worry about how close they come to the brake lines and if, off center could make contact there and cause issues

 

I put some black ones on my 25 in anticipation of camping this summer.

Are there torque specs on these bolts?

 

I installed the blue ones last fall & recently had to haul some landscaping blocks. Not sure of the weight but it sat on the sumos pretty good & had a very very small amount of squat. The truck rode very nicely on those springs, better than I had thought it would. Quite pleased with the results so far.

 

I love mine. Questions, when would you need the front Sumos?

 

Awesome! Glad to see this post helped so many.
I love my rear sumo springs, hassle/maintenance free, great ride quality, a much safer ride when loaded, and no need for WD hitch.
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to install the front springs as they wouldn’t fit between the A frame and I’m not spending that much time on it until UBJs are needed.

 

The front coil springs or the front bumpstop replacements?

The coil springs are supposed to limit vibration on rock, gravel, washboard…
(FYI: vibrations kill these front bumpers on these trucks )

The bump stop replacements are supposed to be for softer landings.
If you have a negative offset like me you might blow out a fender flare every now and then (weekly) when off-roading

 

What do you mean vibration kills the front bumper?

 

I added the air bags and they work great. I tow a 7.5K lb trailer with about 800-900 tung weight. 25 lb in the bags leveler it right out. I got the ultimates (built in bump stop) so i can run them with zero PSI when not trailering.

 

I loved these on my Tacoma, but have now returned them for my Tundra. I'm not yet towing very frequently and will revisit when we buy a camper later this year. Rebound on these is far harsher than they were for the Tacoma. Like, started to hurt my back. I tried to get used to it over a couple of weeks but ride quality went down significantly so I've now removed the rears and will likely remove the fronts.

Considering the Icon versions that would still soften bottom-outs without making contact as frequently as the sumos - which have very little gap and make contact on small bumps in the road that would otherwise be barely felt.

 

These? https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop...aOZMgkK7R67Mq27TknX95UZAwTUunyTItuMaUJvMG-s0P

Also, can you tell if the integrated bump stop is any longer than the stock one? I.e. will it hit hard, earlier or is the basically the same contact point as stock?

 

That is basically what I installed. My brackets look a little different. The bump stops seem about the same but you cannot see them. i did squish the bags down with no air and could feel the stops hitting at about the same height as the bump stops look to be.

 

I’ve seen better quality from a 3D printer than the plastic used to hold our bumper covers to the crash bar. On my truck one of them broke due to vibration and all the rest followed soon after. And because the bumper cover is connected to the grill it started sagging from the top.
I got lucky, when I pulled the grill to put on the new bumper the only plastic connections that weren’t broke were the ones that stay on the grill after trimming for aftermarket bumper.
I also know a guy who bought several of these trucks for his oilfield employees and he’s having the same issue.

 

Thank you for the answer. Does that mean it’s the black part under the grill that is the problem? The part that people usually cut out when installing an aftermarket bumper? Or it’s even more than that?

 

The black plastic that bolts directly to the crash bar. And yes they are scrap after installing a bumper

 

Great! I was planing on putting a CBI covert bumper so it will eliminate that problem. Thanks!

 

There are still two, one on each side, with the covert bumper. But yeah it seems like it should have more rigidity after installing the CBI bumper
Good luck

 

Ok so not just the black plastic under the grill but the whole bumper where it’s connected to the crash bar. I guess a I’ll keep on eye on the sides.

 

Well the side pieces are already broken and the middle ones are keeping it together for now. I will try to see if I can order some replacement. No idea if it’s possible since they appear to be molded in the bumper.

 

Have you guys compared Timbrens to Sump? Any pros cons?

 

Installing these this Friday… Dayton CargoMaxx HD Coil springs.

 

I've been running the black sumo springs for a couple thousand miles now. Normal ride quality is unaffected. The only time I notice them is on a hard bump at low speeds like a pothole or dropping off a speed bump. I think I'm feeling them hit the frame on those cases.