Hard shifts after pan drain and fill

Yes, but what sets the fluid pressure to the accumulators? Suppose there is a partially plugged fluid passage?

 

Could be I suppose. As high as the pressure is, I’m having a hard time figuring out where the clog could be. Or I could be a leak like sunfish stated above.

 

I concur, replace o-rings.

 

Whatever the primary cause, it resulted from "unintended consequences" of the first drain and fill using MaxLife. That is when your problem began. Wear, either o-rings or valve body, doesn't happen overnight. So, we are left with new, clean fluid acting as a solvent washing out sludge that compensated for existing wear and kept everything working smoothly (?), or alternately, desolved solids moving to new locations to restrict fluid flow and pressure. Springs don't typically change imo.

 

I agree as well but there is also a lot of other trouble areas that narrow down to an accumulator issue. Here is a few more areas that concern me of wear. I have done well over a month worth of research and I feel like I have hit bottom. The only issue with our transmissions being so darn strong is that there ain’t a whole lot of info on them!

another option could be at I have a glazed clutch pack and there is absolutely nothing wrong with my valve body or accumulator valve and rebuilding it would be a complete waste of money and time.

 

So at this point I’m at a stand still until I decide I want to tear into this highly sophisticated trans/valve body, spends lots of money, tears up more, I trade it in, waste 8 more quarts of ws fluid... or just learn to live with the issue! I will keep this post updated with future content.

 

I have serviced all my previous truck the same way I have performed on my tundra. I reckon this was just meant to happen! I will get it figured out one way or another!

 

Solution is manual swap. I have confidence in your ability to throw in a 5spd or 6spd manual transmission swap and provide detailed documentation for us to repeat and will credit you for your hard work and contributions.

 

Love the regular cab taco.

 

Thanks bud. That was my truck all through high school and college. 2001 2.7L 4x4 5speed. I sold it to a guy out of town and he hit a cow and totaled it out 3 months later.

 

I done some digging today and went back through my calendar agenda. I just realized I removed and cleaned my throttle body and MAF the evening before I started experiencing my shift issue. I have read that a faulty throttle position sensor may think you are pressing your throttle harder there for giving a firmer shift. Any chance this could not even be a transmission issue?

 

It’s possible. What is your idle RPM, warmed up with A/C (including defrost) off? Did you disconnect the battery for a few minutes at any point after cleaning the TB?

 

Maybe this is a random thought

Do you have the shimmed gas pedal?

 

I had a very low idle when I got it. Like 400 rpm’s. It even shut off two times in the Walmart parking lot two days after I signed the papers! That was the main reason I cleaned it. After the cleaning and battery reset it was initially high but smoothed off to normal after a day. It stays at about 700 now at idle with no issues.

 

Yeah I got the cut Pedal. Is that what you are talking about?

 

See post 12

https://www.tundras.com/threads/touchy-gas-pedal.29361/

 

Ill pull it and see. Mine is in fact the recall pedal they cut so I could bet you I have a shim in place as well.

even if it don’t fix my shifting problem at least it could fix my super sensitive pedal. You should see my wife drive my truck!

 

YIKES!

All this makes me NOT want to drain/fill my tundy. Mines at 150k now and prior owner was older gentleman; had his local toyo dealership do all the maint. However looking at toyota.owners i dont think they did the 100k trans fluid swap.

I tow a bass boat only (under 3k) and everything is smooth. I have 2 cases of WS standing by for a drain/fill come this spring.......i think i will hold off on that for now....maybe at 200K i might consider as others have said once they did drain/fill on these tundies, thay had issues.

 

As long as you pull your pan and clean the funk and filter you should be fine. As of today I started shifting hard into 5th.....

 

I have been doing drain and fills for years on Toyota’s with no issue. I will continue doing so. My wife’s 2nd gen sequoia has 225,000 miles on it.

 

Me too brother. I have done multiple on every Toyota I have owned. Not sure what is going on.

 

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Current recommendation is no fluid service except for special service conditions (towing, heavy loading), then recommended service is every 60K miles.

 

At 125k miles the transmission fluid in my Tundra needed changing. It was not burnt, but the color was a dark reddish. I only did the strainer, o-ring, gasket, and refill. I plan on doing a drain and fill again in 10-15k miles, then 60k after that. My pan and magnets were extremely clean.

 

Ahh ok, since the old man never had toyo do anything to it, i will do drain/fill at 160k...im at 150-and-change now. I live in the salt capital of the world so i will not be dropping pan and doing screen filter.

 

I don’t know the exact history of mine but I do know it was female driven up until me purchasing it. A+ condition inside and out. For a 13 y/o truck you could eat off the bottom of the engine/frame.

 

So at 125k there wasn’t a lot of sludge/metal on the bottom of your pan? When I finally removed mine mine wasn’t that dirty either.

 

Also a possibility my Symptoms started roughly the same time I installed my front leveling kit. I’m wondering if the fill level may be off with the front end higher than stock. Maxtrac 3.5 spindle with stock rear. I’m not 100% sure how solenoids work though. Do they need to be fully submerged in fluid? I’m interested in the ones in the front of the valve body.

 

Here is an idea. Put a magnetic level on the bottom of the transmission pan. Jack the back of the truck up until the level shows that the vehicle is leveled properly. Then check your fluids. Just a thought.

 

The solenoids are fed fluid pressure from the pump in the transmission, so submerging them isn’t a necessity. So long as the pump never “sucks in” air through the strainer the fluid level is high enough, on the flip side if the level is too high the fluid can become frothy and aerated, another way of introducing air into the pump. Since air is compress-able, and fluid is not, either under or overfilled can change the operation of the hydraulic system drastically.

I haven’t had time to look into it, but based on memory of my truck that I haven’t driven in three weeks I think your 700 rpm warm idle is pretty high.