Got Bed Bounce?

If you've got bed bounce, and you've also added a TRD sway bar, then TAKE IT OFF OR DISCONNECT ONE LINK.
I added a TRD sway bar to my PRO, and now I feel your pain. This mod really screwed up the smooth ride that existed before the install, so it's getting disconnected today and maybe removed altogether.
If you have a non-pro and experience the dreaded bed bounce, go disconnect a link (if you've installed a sway bar) and feel the difference for yourself. With a non-pro you may still have bed bounce after the disconnect, but not as severe.
IMO, if you take corners/on ramps fast or tow a trailer, then keep the sway bar connected, because that's about all it's good for...well, it looks cool too!
Ok, went out with two 19mm wrenches and it's now disconnected. Looks cool though, and if I decide to tow, or wanna drive like Parnelli, the bolt and wrenches are on board. Done.

 

Thank you for that advice!...

 

Hey Sean266,
Prior to the sway bar install, I could see bed bounce in my rear view mirror, but felt nothing into the drivers seat; the PRO suspension was functioning great. After the sway bar install, not so great.

I disconnected one link, drove it and though it's better, I'm going to have to disconnect both links. Will probably remove the sb completely.
The hardware connection (sway bar) from the live axle to the frame/body transmits too much vibration. Sway bars have their place and it's not on a Pro.

 

I would take it off and sell the sway bar. It is for towing only. I don't have one and have no need for one. LT tires took care of all my concerns. If your not towing 60-70% of the time, not worth it IMHO.

 

Bet there will be one for sale shortly. Get it now for cheap.

It does help with body roll, and that is critical in towing in certain times. I have not needed one in a bumper pull situation. Now when I had a slide in camper, it helped a lot in conjunction with air bags.

 

ColoradoTJ you guessed it right; it's coming off and going to Craigslist. With the inherent bed bounce (and genesis being the trapezoid spring/frame design) a guy should ONLY install a sb if towing a lot. Yeah Sean, it does help with body roll, but IMO, it fights the shocks too much.

 

All you hear is great things from people that install the TRD sway bar, now I hear this and it makes me go .

 

I've never had a negative affect like this from installing a rear sway bar on my Ford F350, GMC 2500 HD, or Ram 2500. Anyone considering a TRD rear sway bar, or any other brand for that matter, will find that bed bounce will increase. If you're towing everyday, then go for it.

 

My 3rd gen Dodge had no bed bounce, my second gen dodge was horrible. Frames were different, so we're the suspension package. On the third gen, no rear sway bar.

Our 99-2000 Tacoma trucks were not horrible. My 14 longbox Tacoma sport is awesome.

Towing a 5th wheel, I get it.

People that have aftermarket tuned(able) suspension usually don't have these issues as DBL TAP has found out with his Pro suspension.

 

Sway bars have a spring rate, and when the sway bar adds that spring rate to your leaf pack, you compound the bed bounce.

The takeaway from this experience with a TRD PRO should be this:

if you own a TRD PRO, or standard Tundra, are experiencing bed bounce, and don't tow much, DON'T install a TRD sway bar! It will only add to your bed bounce issue.

 

As Sean stated, tuned suspension might help. Ever concider pulling the shocks off and re-valving?

Guess it would be cheaper if you just removed. Might be worth it if you towed more.

 

The simple solution is to remove the sway bar, and that's what I'm going to do. Just because the part is labeled "TRD" doesn't necessarily mean that it's going to be a good thing.

 

Interesting. Thanks for sharing.

 

It has it's application for sure, just not for what you do.

I remember some of the roads in CA in the 90's. Holy hell those were some rough road trips on the concrete. Specifically 99, 101, 5, and 15. I still remember the thud, thud, thud of my tires...lol

 

The old concrete freeways around LA really suck. In San Diego we've got Hwy 52, and I use the westbound section between the 163 and I-5 as my suspension test track. Cal Trans knows how to do washboard!

 

That was specifically what I was talking about. My Lord they were bad.

I would be coming down from Fresno or Visalia and take a beating.

Two months ago I was in Southern CA, not much has changed. Some of the craters in the highways are dangerous.

 

Just for clarification, is bed bounce only affecting the quality of the ride for you or is there some concern of the sway bar impacting the mechanical components?

I ask because I noticed that the ride quality changed on my SR5 with the TRD package after I installed 3/1 toytec level and sway bar. However, the quality is still night and day over my old 14' Sierra with 8 inch lift kit. I got to think that the 33x12.50 have some impact on vibrations that may mimic bed bounce. Also, I wonder if ride will improve as suspension softens or settles over time.

 

Hi Chaosx4:
The TRD rear sway bar greatly magnified the bed bounce, and now it is felt inside. It's my feeling/opinion that by connecting both wheels with the sway bar, the torsional resistance created by the sway bar fights the shocks.

Prior to the install I could drive over a certain washboard section of concrete freeway and see the bed bouncing, but not feel it into the seats. No so now, and that's why I'm going to remove the sway bar. Though the truck handles corners much better, the ride quality tradeoff is not worth it.
Hope this helps you and anyone considering a rear sway bar.

 

Not to thread jack but I have been experiencing some flexing in my steering wheel while driving. After the 3/1 level kit, the steering is super sensitive. The steering wheel rocks back and forth on a flat road. Now the it seems to be more significant on rough roads but I am not sure if that's normal. My lifted truck was really sensitive in the steering but I had an 8inch lift. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like oversteer. A stiff rear sway bar will reduce understeer and can cause oversteer. A stiffer front sway bar can help with oversteer. Some of the members here go with a Sequoia front sway bar. Google oversteer and understeer. Good luck.

 

What about taking off the front sway bar too? common sense tells me it will be a better ride as the shocks will work to their full potential, making it a true independent front suspension. Anyone have any input on that? I don't offroad much, I have both front and rear sway bars at the moment, im thinking of taking them off to see it if rides better. I am leveled with pro comp pro runners all four corners.

 

Well spank my ass and call me Charlie, I was planning on getting one being the good member reviews. No biggie

 

Start by disconnecting both links on the rear sway bar. You can safely suspend the sway bar with a couple of 14" heavy duty bungee cords. I've done this on my PRO, and it definitely makes a difference in the ride.

 

Ok, what about the front sway bar? you left that on?

 

Yes he did.

 

so i can leave my rear sway bar disconnected like what you have in the pic?

 

No, not exactly. In that pic the left side link is still connected. When both links are disconnected the sway bar will drop, so to prevent the bar from dragging the ground, take something (I used HD bungee cords) and suspend the bar. By doing this you can drive the truck without having to completely remove the SB.