Go Rhino E-1 Power Running Boards

Evening folks, curious if anyone has the Go Rhino Power Running Boards, and their thoughts (and pic's of course)? Search thread was minimally useful, and most YT videos are ok, but would rather hear from operators and not salesman.

Of particular interest is the interior view of the wiring and were you mounted your "disable" switch. Wife's 23 Tree Plati Sequoia has the factory ones and they are surprising splendid. Never thought I would like them, but they are wide and inconspicuous.

Thanks in advance, and GO AMERICA!!!

 

I have them on 23 platinum. I just hide the switch under the passenger seat where it connects. But my passenger seat doesn’t move a lot. You only see the wires for the door sensors. I will try to take pictures later. Good steps no complaints.

 

Thank you sir, that would seal the deal.., they look stout.., just need to get comfortable with that wire and magnet on the door sill. I kept thinking I had to put the switch on the driver's side left bottom panel, interesting and smart move on the passenger side. Take care.

 

@Rocco1522 , hello sir, sorry to be a pest, any chance we can see a pic of those wires (and magnets) across the door sill?

Thanks man!

 

I’m the morning I will. It if I had to do it again I would go with the amp because it looks like it plugs into the harness and don’t have to run wire inside the truck

 

I put the switch by the trailer brake controller because that was about as much slack as I had to reach that spot. I wound up going up into the cab though an existing grommet near the ac drain. I may try to remove this in the future and get a push on/off button that fits in the factory position and extend the wire. They don't really show any cable routing info so its some trial and error to figure out ways to get around to the drivers side.

The driver side door was a little tricky where they want you to mount the magnet was right on the payload sticker and I moved it a bit and that one was holding me up.

The main gripe is there's no delay so if you go to load something in the back, then close the door it retracts well before you open the front door. I think the factory has a longer delay. Also there is no function to force deploy them out for cleaning, I wind up deploying them and then yanking the fuse. Its useful to have them deployed with washing the truck to get on the top.

It may be easier to install the boards once the motors are in the deployed position. To do that the module and the motors need to be connected and the on/off switch and then when you add 12v they should deploy. The magnets only close the circuit to signal retraction.

My only potential worry really is that the system open state is deployed, meaning if any of the door magnets fail, the boards will deploy. If the logic was the other way the system would be fail safe.

 

Interesting, and thanks for the intel.., good stuff sir.

 

Wife has a Sequoia with them, and the switch is helpful (auto, out, and retracted). Cleans easy, can use to dry the top of the truck, or maybe help with door dings..., not sure, but love the ability to call the ball.

 

Haven’t mounted the override switch yet (hoping to find a factory toggle switch, but doesn’t look good). I have it just tucked into my glovebox at the moment.

The steps are pretty solid, the perfect height, and the perfect size to use as an actual step (my wife and kids no longer need a running start to climb in).

+1 on wishing there was a 5 second delay when closing (a little awkward getting out of the front seat and getting something from the back seat) but I just end up keeping my front door open until I open my back door.

They’re a little louder than I was expecting and I’m not sure if it’s an alignment issue (the motor itself is reasonably quiet, but the steps or mounts seem to rattle a bit). I’m going to try loosening the bolts, cycling the steps, and then tightening down to see if it helps.

One thing I did notice is the wiring seemed a little short… the split that connects the passenger side to the wiring to the driver’s side is ~4” from the crossmember, so there’s no way to neatly ziptie the wiring to the frame. My assumption is the measurements were taken off of a hybrid as I believe the crossmember sits back a few more inches down the frame. A customer service rep assured me this would not cause damage to the steps or my truck, fwiw.

There also wasn’t a great place to install the lights. Ideally these would shine onto the steps at a 45 degree angle, but the only options seem to be either directly down/behind the steps (under the body) or perpendicular to the steps (on the frame), which I think will miss the ground and the steps.

 

How is the magnet set up for activation? Seems like it would look gawdy and like an afterthought?

 

Mine work great. I hated the look of the magnets at first but now I don’t even notice them.

 

Thank you, good intel. Any chance you can post a pic of the door jam and wire running to that magnet. Sorry to ask, but thanks in advance!!

 

I don’t really notice them because of the entry/exit angles.

This is basically what it looks like when you enter the truck from the front and back.


If you’re actively looking for the sensors and magnets, here’s what it looks like.

 

Anyone else in this boat or with knowledge know if this is the correct part for the factory step switch?

https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-switch-848900c010

 

A tip on running the wires for the boards, go over the top of the fuel tank and follow the crossmember over to the other side, keeps the wiring out of site and hanging below the frame, any way that is how I ran mine. Thanks for sharing the factory step switch.

 

I just got the import rear auto step and I was going to try and make it work with the factory switch. I'm making an in depth how-to on it with pictures and if it works out I think there would be a lot of crossover getting aftermarket steps to function pretty close to OEM.

 

There wasn’t nearly enough slack on mine. Is yours a hybrid?

 

Awesome shots, thank you @Fillabuster !

 

Yes mine is a hybrid

 

Ah, yeah, I suspect Go Rhino measured off of the hybrid and as far as I can tell the crossmember is in a different location from the non-hybrid (based on what I’ve seen for skid plate and catalytic converter covers). Basically the crossmember is ~4” closer to the front of the truck causing the wire that connects the passenger side with the driver’s side to be really taut and suspended between the frame and crossmember.

 

Has anyone been able to connect the OEM override switch with aftermarket power boards?

 

It should be possible, if you want the on-off function there is already a toggle switch in the system for that.
I'm not sure about the force deploy option, because you'd need to open both door sensor circuits not close them.

 

Another note I talked with Go Rhino about how to force them to stay out when cleaning the car. Its not mentioned by there is a safe switch so if you step on the board while closing it stops the closing function until the next door cycle

 

thank you for your picture. This is the last issue I had - figuring out how to route this split wire. Now I’m done!

by the way, for the front doors, I put the magnets 1” above the latches to avoid the labels on the drivers side. Since my truck is Blueprint blue (very dark blue) you can barely see the sensors/magnets. As long as they line up, it works fine!

 

For the front door sensors, is it possible to mount on the hinge side as opposed to the latch side? I noticed in the back it was in the hinge .

 

This is really important for those of us who have the fuel line recall with temporary and permanent repairs that require the dealer to drop the tank twice. You don't want to complicate things for them.

 

The sensors are mounted on the b pillar and the magnets mount on the doors. The sensor wire goes to the base of the b pillar and splits for sensors to mount on either side door opening. The magnets mount on the doors so that they match the sensors when closed. The sensor wire is not long enough to reach the front door hinges, but I guess you could extend the wiring in a way to make it happen.

 

I was able to ditch their default on/off switch and switch to the OEM type button below. (The best I could find to fit the use)



An interesting note having the running boards on means that their switch is "open" and closing it disables/retracts the running boards. This means pressing the button to the on position disables the running boards. I was also able to tie the instruments lights into the this switch by wiring the lights to one of the unused oem connections in the back.

Edit: I didn't wire up the "on" light because in this case it will be on 24/7 and dim because the signal from the E1 module is only 7.2 volts. It will only go out when the boards are in the disabled position.

The best way I've found to leave the board extended for cleaning/maintenance is to open the passenger side and step on it while closing the door that triggers the kill function, then go open the driver's side and step on the board while hitting the disable switch which will kill the driver side, once the "off" switch is engaged the boards won't operate until you turn the switch back on.

 

Link? Installed photo??

 

I got it from air on board

their ebay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256232870466