General Supercharger Thread

I don't know if the Whipple install instructions have you cutting hoses, but having a nice, sharp hose cutter was sure nice when I did my install. All your hose ends are nice, clean and square; beats the hell out of trying to use a box cutter or something.

 

Check prices at rock auto o the plugs, stay away from Amazon/ebay. Water wetter for radiator too if you want to. Stick with red coolant with higher psi trd radiator cap.

 

I purchased my plugs through Rockauto, good price!

-silicone lube

 

I felt pretty big brain a few months back using a PVC cutter on a hose, what a revelation to be able to easily cut things

 

New manifold gasket, don’t over torqued manifold bolts. Dry air filter, boost reference regulator.

 

Put the original ecu back, hoping to rule the ecu in or out, didn't save a key so having no master, can't program a key, put it back, now I have 2 transmission codes. It's 109, walked away.

Cannot make this shit up

 

Have to mention the DILFR7K9G plug (same heat range as the 22). Toyota’s choice for boosted engines.

 

Also, triple check all of your Whipple kit items as well, inventory them...

My kit is missing a SC spacer..and now I'm waiting on it.

 

I've got a pvc cutter....think that'll work? Sounds like me a @snivilous have the same idea.
And yes, you have to trim one of the factory hoses.

Rockauto has Denso 5345's for $6 and some change. It seems like thats the same as the IKH22's? Not sure because the Whipple states in RED to use "IKH22"

I'll have the torque wrench ready. Is this the gasket? https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/gasket-intake-manif-1717150030
I've got a aFe dry filter. What boost reference regulator?

 

Thats a really good point. I'll check all the parts.

 

Update on the guy a few weeks ago who had crazy knock feedback. To reiterate, gnarly knock feedback, he puts in seafoam and that seems to stop (or reduce) some noise he was hearing (timing chain perhaps?) and that then stopped the knock retard. Get an email today, he says the noise has come back and so has the knock retard!



Same exact tune and setup, one week ago:



Absolutely wild, but also cool and very good data because we're seeing a direct relationship between (excessive) mechanical noise and knock feedback. I am confused as to why seafoam would fix the issue, and if it did why that wouldn't be a pseudo-permanent fix, you would think if it broke gunk free or freed up the motion of parts that it would be a one and done type deal.

 

More than double the price of IKH22, is it that good?

 

Timing guide?

 

That or the tensioner is my guess, I doubt it jumped timing but he seemed to think the sound was coming from the timing area. But why seafoam would change that at all and then get worse I don't understand.

 

I've used both of the pictured items at various points in time. I have one at home, and the other at work.

 

To piggy back on what Rey said; timing guide tensioner crapping out or bleeding off, or sticking from some gunk?

 

Rock auto goes by the part number. My ikh24 are just a step colder. Just that rock auto shipping can be more $.

 

Every time i'm searching for Denso IHK22 it comes up with Desno 5345, but it looks like the 5345 are IKH22, not IHK22. I'm assuming that the IHK's are a step colder?



Rockauto only has the IKH22's it looks like.....anyone have a link to the correct ones?

 

For $20 i'll grab one and if my pvc cutter doesn't get the job done cleanly then i'll use it.

 

IHK has got to be an typo transposing the H and the K. I searched IHK and all the results came up IKH. Temp ranges of spark plugs are indicated by numerals, in this conversation 24 is one heat range colder than 22.

 

They are a more durable and likely better performing plug due to several features. Is the extra price worth it? Debatable.

 

Someday, when I sort all my issues, I'll remember them, thanks!

 

Ouch. Wonder if any increase in life.

It's a typo by Whipple.

 

Certainly something to consider the next time new plugs are being pondered.

 

Probably by the same person who's forgetting to put all the parts in before shipping the kits...

 

That's with a volume discount for buying more than 4!

 

I've been running the NGK 2309. And honestly, just because I found them to be cheaper than Rock Auto and Denso direct if you order from NGK directly, all due to shipping. Hope this helps in the discussion. The differences, based on the website, aren't nearly detailed or transparent as what @Jowett is sharing, so his are probably the better option of the two. Simply looking at price point and service life puts them on even ground, though. Those IKH24s are no joke!

Denso IKH22 (heat range 7)-
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-2309-lfr7aix-iridium-ix-spark-plug (50k mile)
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-91961-dilfr7k9g-laser-iridium-spark-plug (100k mile)

Denso IKH24 (heat range 8) -
https://www.ngk.com/ngk-4901-r7437-8-racing-plug

 

And if you're running the Lexus 8ARFTS coils you should open them up to .034 or thereabouts.

 

The SC Tacoma guys run this VW/Audi plug. It’s another step past the DILFR7K9G.

NGK Ruthenium LFER7BHX

 

Volume increase!! Never saw that before!