General Supercharger Thread

You got some really next level stuff going on! Looks real clean!

 

Thanks, hoping it's worth the effort...

 

Are they marketed as P&P?

 

No, they're not. They are the same length and have the same top and bottom diameter, but not plug and play. I tested installation with the stock fuel rail on a cylinder head from my disassembled engine before I purchased them, but without the supercharger or intake installed. I couldn't get them installed on my truck without modification.

 

That looks clean, let us know how the temps are affected...should be a noticeable drop. You get that Lexus washer reservoir installed yet?

 

Not yet. I'm waiting for the snow washer bung to show up and relocate my W/M pump. I'll try and mock it up later on.

 

This is also on my list for an "easy" winter project in the garage.

 

So, with the Lexus coils and the dwell table added, are people running .028 - .030 or are you guys running closer to .034? I been running .030 since going FI without blowout issues, so I was planning on .034. now y'all have me second guessing myself

 

Was going to jump power for my fuel pump to test and saw this little guy...30AMP fuse for electric fan (28AMP) melted but not blown? Not sure what happened here...fan was still working last time I drove it. Fan wiring is 10GA, anyone have any guesses? Fan details https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPU-IX-30102803

 

I thought I saw @Mdl said he was running .030 gap on the 8AR coils so I figured I'd go the same route. I've been running .022 gap on my stock coils per ProSpeed's recommendation FWIW.

 

I found a complete unit with fill tube on ebay for $100. Fill tube alone is like $60 from Toyota. Looks like it fits but will get it in later on.

I had a few plugs that were .033 so I just gapped the rest to that with no issues using denso ikh24, 2 steps colder than stock. No issues. Previous plugs were at .026. No misfires and ran strong up to 6400 rpm.

 

I gapped at .033 as a few from factory were already there. No misfires, probably could go to .034 as that is where the 8arfts coils are at

 

This aligns with what I was remembering. I'm headed to .034 with the ikh24s. Easy enough to change if there's an issue. It'll show itself during the tune session but I'll try to remember to report back to this post with results.

 

I had my e-fan 80 amp relay melt but fuse didn't blow. I got a heavy duty relay now.
Looks like it could of had a huge surge that melted quickly fusing the metal before it could of blown like normal???

 

I guess I'll just replace the fuse for now, strange that it didn't pop, a surge should have made it pop...that's what it's meant to do. I mean, it's got one job...do your job!

 

With the CF hood I have no worries about water or snow with where the vents sit.

 

Watch out for fake fuses. Rather scary actually.

Also @armyoffoo you may consider upping the size of the fuse. If that fan draws 28 full load amps you should have some extra headroom for starting inrush current. You realistically probably want a 35 or 40 amp fuse.

 

Could you snap a photo of where the water falls? My question is self-serving due to turbo mounting location. It's the biggest reason I haven't just submitted to the fact it's the right solution for me.

 

New OEM Lexus tank from UAE is under 121 (plus tax) shipped with all the motors, harnesses & hoses.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323872324374

Filler neck is 29.36, maybe they will combine shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324413325139

 

I had my front light bar blow a 5 amp fuse last night. One leg on the fuse was so loose I could pull it out. Got new spares at NAPA.

 

I'll fab up a rain guard where it'll divert rain to front passenger side of radiator shroud. I have my Volvo e-fan relay mounted on my shroud but is clear of the opening. In rain and off roading water gets up there anyways.

 

On the 2.5 on up with the bepressed front hood is a decent place. I just pulled a photo from the turbo thread where @Jego was deciding what direction he'll go with heat extraction.

 

Yeah, I was curious about the CF hood, too. The DIYs we can place and mod as needed, but I'm still curious about the prefabricated solutions. I dig some of those designs but it's a big gamble since I'd be looking for paint matched, too. Hate to learn it dumps water directly on my turbo, which could be problematic from a thermal shock perspective, or not at all? IDK, I'm just concerned about dumping cold shit directly onto my hot shit.

 

@bflooks you betcha but it'll have to wait for a good photo. In shop getting the roof replaced from hail last year

Ps. Old photo can kinda see it sits above battery area and Airbox

 

Few from the old man’s rig since mines not on the truck yet

 

Looks great!!! I'm curious to see before and after temperature comparisons.

 

Thank you, @ARES35

Thank.you! I need to find the dimensions of the vents. Essentially from cowl lip to top vent, from hood trim to front vent, from side ridge of hood to vent. Out turbos sit at the inner fender vertical face where the air box used to be (between the fuse block and the power steering reservoir). I suspect that's exactly where the vents are, but for all I know the vents are closer to the coils and valve cover?

 

Just to update: I washed my truck and sprayed water up/down/above the hood. Water went right on front pulley and fan shroud as I thought it would.
Those CF hoods look sweet! But trying to budget...if you really can.

 

Looks like Outerwears Prefilter for the waterproofing works and it is cheap.

Ref. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...waterproof-rubicon-hood-vents-write-up.82001/

 

Looks cheap enough to mess around with to make a frame or? Thanks!