General Supercharger Thread

Okay, I'll take the bait. What is your fuel gauge currently reading?

 

Oh I get it.
First it was an exhaust and now the SCer.
I'm sure I'm not done yet,I cant leave well enough alone once I start modding shit.
And of course you have to have aftermarket Rims and Tires.
Then a rear locker and maybe a front locker down the road.....
I dont see me going past the rear Locker though since I really dont offroad in the Tundra unless I'm trying to get somewhere with some crappy terrain between me and my final destination.
Like taking the trip down Padre Island National Seashore,60 miles of soft deep sand one way if you dont hit it at low tide.
It is cool being able to go places that most vehicles cant.
That way you can get away from the crowds.

 

the real magic of a s/c is felt on highway hills, tbh. Especially in higher altitudes

 

Not absolutely sure at the moment.
Filled it up with some high test right after I picked it up.
If I had to guess probably around 3/4 of a tank.
Reset the trip odo as well so I can keep track.

 

I really noticed the difference when towing the boat or camper in the Tacoma.
Of course I had to do several Mods on it to make it a decent tow rig.
The Sway Away,shocks and leaf springs to name a few. Oh had it regeared as well,mainly so I could run bigger tires without losing the ummpf.
But it did surprisingly well it being so small.

 

Good Lord! You're going to be out of warranty before you complete the break-in window. Get driving!!

 

I finished the sandwich plate for the Boomslang firewall mount, this was more difficult than I thought. I changed my mind on using the stock ECU mount as the Boomslang adapter is basically a trapezoid and would have required a lot more work to get it to fit. I am making another aluminum plate that will mount to the firewall in the stock ECU location with nutserts that this piece will mount to. I still have a hand full of signal ground and +5v reference wires to work into the loom, waiting on the wire shipment and some pins to show up before I can fit to the truck and then cut the wires to length and terminate.

 

I'll go out this afternoon and put some miles on it.
But damn does it ever get boring driving around aimlessly!!
Might take it to the beach this weekend and stop at one of our favorite Seafood joints on the seawall.
Drive down the beach for awhile and head back home.
That should put close to a couple hundred miles on it.
Oops....cant do that this weekend.
Have 7 lbs of King Crab showing up this afternoon for tomorrow.
Although I could do it on Sunday.

 

Gotta love AI. Limit to 4k rpm, but let her eat on the dyno. Doesn't make sense. If I throw a new wheel bearing in a car, I'm not telling that customer take it easy and drive under 45 mph for the first 400 miles to let that bearing break in. Drive it like normal. It's going to be fine. I don't see a problem changing the oil if it makes you feel better. There's always a possibility for little debris from machining but for the most part it's going to be problem free.

 

And bearings need to seat? They are pressed in, there shouldn't be any break-in required for bearings...AI search results are pretty much useless.

 

Looking good! How do the nutserts hold up? I have a few items I wanted to set into the fender but was thinking of vibration etc. But then again they are used throughout the auto industry...
After I get the new carrier set up I'll be looking at the intercooler setup.

 

100% But I mean if you want to "break it in" it's not going to hurt anything by doing so, so do whatever makes you comfortable right?

 

I have them all over my truck for mounting stuff, heaviest being the interchiller evap. I put them in with green loctite for added insurance, but they are a tight interference fit and working well so far.

 

Used them a bunch on the bronco’s fiberglass body and no complaints after 5 years. Got one holding my meth tank in the tundra as we speak.

 

Thanks. Want to have better fastens for the w/m pump.

 

I use them everywhere too. If I'm worried about them spinning I'll throw a tack on the outer flange.

 

Are you guys using aluminum or steel nutserts? I only have mandrels up to 1/4-20, which should be plenty strong for most things but steel 1/4-20's take a bit of work to smoosh down.

My bed slide uses a version of nutserts that you crank down with a few wrenches using a longer bolt, a spacer, and a few washers. I've found that they need to be retorqued every couple of months. BUT... there are only 6 of them support over 1000 lbs of tray and tools that gets opened and closed several times a day on average and has to deal with a decent amount of road miles with mixed off-highway. So I'd say that's a pretty tall order.

I was going to swap them out for different nutserts but that requires the big-boy tools. I think they are 7/16" bolts but now I'm curious and might go check real quick.

 

I use the steel ones, with the tools linked below. I use the smaller tool for M6 or below and the larger tool for M6 or higher if it fits in the space I'm trying to install them. The smaller tool is unavailable, but other similar options are still available, also tougher to get the M6 installed with. The larger tool is very easy to use, but bulky and tough to get into tight spots.

Muzata Hand Rivet Tool Nut Setter Kit,Heavy Duty Thread Blind Riveting Tools,Wrench Nut Sert,5pc Metric Mandrels and 250pcs M3/M4/M5/M6/M8 Rivnuts, RK01

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAGIY6X

$40 HARDELL Rivet Nuts Tool, 14" Hand Rivet Tool Kits with 100Pcs Rivet Nuts and 7 Metric & Inch Mandrels M6 M8 M10, 1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, 10-24 and Rugged Carrying Case

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T6T5KFV?th=1

 

I use steel.

 

I use this tool from McMaster with steel ones small impact with an open end wrench and I can chew through 100x in 45 minutes with minimal effort.

 

I’ve got the second one and it’s great.

 

I had to 50 or so steel nutserts a few months ago for a project. My hand felt like this about 3/4 the way through.



I was hoping my little M12 rivet gun could handle nutserts but only the big expensive m18 can be setup to do so. I'll be ordering one (or some) of the above tools... Much thanks.

 

Thanks! I be on it as it'll save time by not having to blindly try to get them secured or using flimsy sheet metal crap screws.

 

Friends don't let friends use self tapers or sheet metal screws

 

Seriously, my whole life changed when I discovered rivet nuts. Even just knowing there was such a thing that existed in this world was a win…

 

I have this one, been great.

$42 IMQUALI Rivet Nut Tool Rivet Nut Kit, 16" Rivnut Tool Kit with 13 Metric & SAE Mandrels Rivet Nut Assortment Kit with 130 Rivet Nuts, Hand Riveters Nutsert Tool Kit with Durable Blow Molded Case

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR9NM931?th=1

 

I use to just weld nuts to the backside of things, but the riv nuts are convenient and you can easily cut them out and replace them in situ when the threads inevitably get destroyed. And I've been surprised how well they react torque.

 

Nice!!
I have a pneumatic rivet gun.
Worked in a sheet metal shop in my youth so I got a little spoiled.
They're pretty cheap and if you use rivets frequently they're well worth the money.
One pull of the trigger........Done!!!
But I get it if you only use them occasionally.

 

Thak you. I have 3 items that I need to address. I needed to move my w/m pump and I was like I'm not pulling that fender liner again to get to the nuts. Well... until I start on the big SABM 3x8 inch opening for the air box inlet to fender. Nutsert tool ordered!

 

YES!!!
The King Crab and Caviar showed up!!
Now I gotta find out what I'm gonna sacrifice from the fridge so I can keep em cold!!
Might just have the Wife bring home a couple of bags of ice so I can just put em in one of our extra large offshore Ice chests.