General Supercharger Thread

RE: Compressor maps around 29mins:
https://youtu.be/1rIyZsPBWCM

Compression ratios and bottom ends follow the conversation:
https://youtu.be/uFsC-N1CeyA

 

HAR ROP!
https://youtu.be/0GUhO4gMusw

 

Very cool video and company. I hope they make a supercharger for the GM 6.6 Gas engine. I think a 2500HD with the 6.6 could be my next truck. Gotta save for that pole barn first though, gotta have room to store this tundra inside. It’s the last of the good ones, gotta keep it.

 

Question for you gents. Is it a true statement that a stock maggie puts up bigger numbers then a stage one Harrop? HP looks the same with a 80ft-lb torque advantage to the maggie.

 

I guess it depends where you get your numbers. A lot depends on the tune and Dyno. Magnuson claims all their figures at the crank. Neither an untuned stage 1 or the provided magnuson tune are optimal and should probably be something you upgrade either way. That said, the best apples to apples comparison I’ve seen was by DAP. Same truck, same dyno, same tuner. He just tried several pulley sizes on the Harrop to compare. With it being spun up faster, I wouldn’t be too surprised if the magnuson made a little more down low torque compared to the 85mm pulley Harrop. It would take analyzing these hard to read graphs to really make that call.

 

Great info thanks!

 

The old man’s Maggy blower tundra has out run a few harrops. Not sure why or what but lots of variables. Tuning plays a huge factor as mentioned. Can’t go wrong with either setup

 

This

both are very good

the tune is the separator.

To repeat the above…. The harrop runs cooler due to larger inter cooling.

but at <600hp. Both are essentially equal

 

The Harrop brakes had my attention

 

what do we think the Raptor R will dyno at?

says 700/640 at crank.

They still using the TVS2650.

11.5 Qts of oil!

0-60 sub 4.5sec?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0I8TJ3JFIY&ab_channel=TheFastLaneTruck

 

Typically Fords lose a little more than the Toyotas in the drivetrain, also running 37's is probably another 30 to 50 hp loss so I would guess in 550 RWHP, 575 would be nice just not sure what they did with the gearing yet. My Long Travel Tundra with 37's dynoed 509 RWHP and 521 FP of Torque at rear wheels in 90 degree high humidity temps recently and I'm confident the Ford will surpass those #'s.

 

Not sure but every supercharged ford I’ve owned (cobras-lightnings) the simple aftermarket mods will make it some great power. I also think it’ll be under rated

 

Nice specs. Too bad it's a Ford. I wont touch one.

 

I think I found a cause for the Relay issue on my IC

you know how Toyota uses those crappy positive battery clamps on the terminals? I think there is only a 50% coverage ratio on the positive terminal.

so....I had a bunch of corrosion. well, even a tad of corrosion will drop amperage on these shitty terminals...My '06 Seq suffered this every 2 years.

so...my battery up and died. it was the stock battery. I got it in May '20.

got a new battery. (no, it's not AGM, it's a regular damn battery from O'rielly.)

I put those felt red & green pole diapers on it and cleaned the terminals to surgical cleanliness....torqued it all down, then sprayed it with oil that dries like ear wax.


I'm thinking the combination of poor connection & Africa heat killed it.

 

Good to know! Have you added new terminals? I'm running the ones from SDHQ.

 

I've got an idea lol

 

Kinda shocked with your choice to replace it with a regular battery. I hope you at least got one of those sealed "maintenance free" batteries, seems like would have been an easy decision to get something that wont corrode the terminals if that was the source of an issue. Granted, those little felt things do work pretty well, but dang....all those preformance upgrades, but no battery upgrades?

 

I will soon.

I did on my old sequoia.

Gotta summon my old car stereo mojo.

 

and...we were on our way to Rudy's to get some BBQ vittles...it was 95 degrees out. the Tundra died on the driveway - blocking all the other cars. Funny #1

so we could only manage to get the Tesla out, yes, the battery car. Funny #2

then juuuusst as we pulled out...the wife says...didn't this happen in the Sequoia Funny #3


maybe it's time to upgrade all this crap. I will heed your advice.

 

Nice. How is the water and dust? Notice any reduced temps?

 

It's a cool truck, expensive, but cool, I believe MSRP starts at $110k, most TRX runs mid to high 12s stock in ideal situation, so I think a Raptor R will do the same, I still think gen 2.5 looks better when widebody is added, I like those 37s, those are C range KO2s and only weight 67lbs.

I don't like the stock shorty headers, I would probably seriously consider one if they offer them in Supercab (access cab) with short bed like they did with gen 1 and gen 2.

I do wonder how smooth the launch will go, lots of small covid quality seem to be on the 14th gen, it makes 3rd gen Tundra launch seem smooth.

 

Yea, I'm also curious on that delivery. I heard a rumor Ford is trying to limit dealer mark-ups but can't confirm that. May try and reach out to a buddy who owns Team Ford in Vegas see what the deal is.

 

Probably this method:
- Sell truck to friend
- Friend drove 500 miles in a weekend, sold back to dealer in 2 weeks
- dealer put $40k of ADM says its available now lol.

I do wonder how well the transfercase will hold out, TRX had years of practice run with the trackhawk, and trackhawk had transfer case issue for the first 2 years, not to mention the engine has been refined for a while before being stuffed into the truck/suvs.

And at that price, I feel like they should've gone with some 3.0 shocks, at that price you may as well.

OR they should've stuffed supercharged 7.3 as per internet bench racers recommended.

 

Dust is abysmal.. dumps straight into an open CAI. Lots of filter cleans. Water isn't an issue for me I'm in Colorado and it hardly rains here.

 

What about snow melt and then refreezing in the engine compartment?

 

I usually brush off snow before driving and theres a downward slope away from the grill in the hood towards the front of the truck, so any free water runs that way

 

I was thinking more in terms of a scenario where the vehicle has been driven, the hood is still warm enough to melt that epic dump that's moving in, but it's not driven until the following day so what has melted drips through the vents into the engine compartment and then freezes. I know that's pretty specific, but then maybe it doesn't happen and I'm overthinking a worst case scenario...

 

It may not seem like it, but it would have to travel a long way (uphill if you will) through the channel through the hood. I've driven in some torrential rain traveling through texas and everything was dry in the air box

 

Wait, is that the RKsport hood? I recall the scoop actually does have a functional ram air function no?