General Supercharger Thread

I misspoke, silicone hoses aren't permeable on their own, the oil (or fuel) breaks down the silicone and seeps through the layers.

https://www.siliconehose.com/blog/oil-fuel-and-silicone-hoses-/

 

Where do I buy this shirt?

 

Scored this on marketplace this afternoon. $350 with a gasket and filter kit. New in box.

Now to find time to install my 2 post lift and install the shift kit and this.

 

https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/water-injection-gains-50hp/
Interesting on water injection alone.

https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_articles/meth-vs-ice-box-vs-interchiller/

 

That's my custom shirt!

 

Which shift kit did you get?

 

Sonax zip kit with the transgo pressure "valve?" Or whichever they call it.

 

Found a new in-box Trd supercharger and fit kit

 

Boost pressure valve=maintains line pressure
Good stuff!

 

The fit kit is the bonus find!

 

There ya go, it's been on a shelf for like 6 months

 

Softball and a heatgun is the best way to do it. That’s how I did mine and took about half an hour but works well and looks stock. Same hardware works too.

 

Whew, some miles on those boxes though. Nice find.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

I either use a large prybar and a hammer and tap them off and if they are really stuck,
I cut them off carefully

 

And everyone said dealers suck....
The Magnusson/Moss act used to save lots of customers from dealers denying warranty for say things like a lift kit or a supercharger added.
Dealers had to prove whatever device was in question was the cause. That's almost impossible to do..
You might want to read up on that.
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act - Wikipedia

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Explained - AmericanTrucks

 

Been there tried that. Unless you’ve got deep pockets and they are trying to void your window switch warranty because of a supercharger, you are in for a long and expensive fight.

 

My Toyota dealer did replace my transmission for free several years after they installed the Magnuson 1900, which I thought was pretty cool. Didn’t give me alot of grief over it. Definitely dealership dependent and also if it was installed there likely counts significantly.

 

Got started on the interchiller installation, cut up the hardline from the condenser to the cabin evap and brazed on the hose fittings. I also replaced my condenser (cracked), and need to replace my compressor (clutch noise).

 

Not supercharged here, but I follow this thread because I want my tundra to be SC/ed and I enjoy reading about it. Anyways, I do have ARH long tube headers w/ DD exhaust and have been dealing with the idle surge and have been annoyed with it for two years now. I've seen a few posts about how to possibly tune it out, so I've been trying to replicate. So after a few hours, it seems that raising the P/N idle to 875 from 700 seems to have helped quite a bit. Also changed LTFT min idle to 899 to see if it would help but didn't seem to do anything that I'm aware of.

Disclaimer: I'm no tuner and just trying to figure this shit out myself! With you guy's help of course.

Will update if anyone is interested.

 

Hell yeah, yes I have the same ARH/DD setup and the idle surge was very annoying/made it seem like the truck was gonna die at idle to other people.

I did a similar idle rpm increase and been testing that the last few months and agree it seems to help alot. I only see the rpms move a little after warmup (no more huge rpm swings) and isn’t really noticeable audibly. My afr gauge still oscillates alot. If you find any other methods let me know!

 

I do believe it was one of your posts that I saw about raising the idle rpm so thank you! I just went and cranked it up again and it went back to the same ol' surging shit. Although not as low as almost dying like it was! I don't have an AFR gauge.

 

What size collector do you have? @HTXtundra4x4 ? 1 7/8

Are the primary O2's sitting proud inside the primary tube. Sometimes if they are set too far back it can cause surging as its not reading properly.

 

Yes 1-7/8” primaries. This is how the collector O2 is setup where it’s angled towards the engine. Does that look right?

 

I believe if the bung height is less than 1/2 inch enough sensor is in the stream. I have my primary O2's in primary 7 and 8 12 inches from the head. It's old school but prevents getting clean air from back pulses in collector. Even though its one cylinder from the primary its supposed to be a true sample. But Keith did the O2 bungs for me back in 2012.

 

Raised my idle awhile back but not for surging. Mine was kicking a code off when coming off the throttle and it would go below the rpm threshold. Sniv upped the idle and no issues. This was probably more so related to dialing in the big TB. Video shows my idle with the ARH headers and Spd catback.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ydLmMkb8rZI?si=gG-SjBuhSF9jGGEA

 

Mine are 1-3/4" tubes and the upstream o2's are in the bungs on the primary tubes. The bung on the collectors is plugged for now. I think that is the reason, ARH didn't put them in the right spot on the primary. I've thought about taking it somewhere to have new bungs welded in, but I don't really know who to trust to do that, so thought i would try and tune it out.

Also, if I hold the RPM at 1500 or so for 15-30 seconds, it will idle normal after that until I shut it off and restart. This is with A/C off. A/C on, seems to idle normal while the compressor is turning.

 

Thats pretty much where mine are located. Well there goes that theory for the surging idle. You both have them in different spots and different sized collectors.
I have my idle in P/D raised to 750 rpm for when the e-fan kicks on.

 

I got the liquid line completed for the Interchiller, now I just need to reconnect everything, tee into the suction line, mount the dryer and interchiller, then connect the lines and draw a vacuum on the system. I also have a pusher fan to mount in front of the condenser that will get activated by the same switch that triggers the solenoid. I will probably get it wrapped up tomorrow. Second picture is a M5 nutsert below the battery tray where the solenoid mounts.

From the condenser I cut the line about 1.5" after the first bend (would cut it shorter for a more gradual bend in the soft line, first soft line is 4 7/16" to the tee fitting, second soft line is 3 1/16" to the 90 degree into the solenoid, third soft line is 5 5/8" from the 90 degree out of the solenoid into the hard line. I cut the hard line going to the cab about 4 3/4" after the bend.

 

- Hot idle like poop, the banks afr would oscillate (seen below on the screenshot), you can hear the misfires.
- few times when cold start, the oscillation would get so bad that I would get misfire codes.
- it stalled a few times when coming to a stop.
- while cruising and I give it a bit more throttle, you can hear the misfire then suddenly it downshift and pick up and go.

It never behave like this until the 750cc/340lph/2.3" pulley went in, been spending last 2-3 months trying to solve this with various help, if you guys can help, please let me know but otherwise I feel like only other choice is try with the 650cc injectors.