General Supercharger Thread

I would add that the Gen 1 Roush Raptor w/has remained fairly reliable for a considerable amount of time

 

Uh are you trying to compare special vehicles that are discontinued by their manufacturer to a mainstream vehicle that has also been discontinued by their manufacturer that people could bolt a supercharger on to? You do realize that the big three can add forced induction just as easy as a tundra and in fact easier with broader support in some instances?

 

I agree with your statement, a Quick Look at Procharger’s site will help confirm this.

 

Well hopefully it’s an easy swap! It looks like a pretty easy/accessible job on the Harrop. I was thinking, it’s pretty wild that the GM LS snout bolts onto the supercharger and aligns perfectly with the Toyota belt/pulley alignment. How is that even possible between two vastly different engines? Are we certain it is 100% the same pulley alignment wise?

 

It should be a simple swap, other than breaking loose and reapplying the gasket goop. The SC units are modular, the rotor packs are the same between models, but there is a left/center/right snout depending on vehicle, and the lower is also engine-specific. I verified with Harrop that the pulley alignment was the same prior to getting the GM snout.

 

The TRX with the Hellcat engine is coming back in 2026 .

 

Awesome. There is a lot to love about the modular design. I know Harrop also makes a spacer for between the rotor pack and the lower manifold to give the air more room to make the turn into the IC cores and reduce heat generation. I wonder if those work across all of the FDFI blowers or not. I saw them used in a video on a FDFI on a GM 427. It made for a notable power increase with no other changes.

 

Interesting, do you have a link for the Harrop spacer? I've seen the spacers for other models, available from fiinterchillers.com, but never saw anything for the Harrop. If it's for a 2650 it should work, with a longer belt of course.

 

I do not have a link, but it can be seen around the 3:50 minute mark on this video. Maybe a call to Harrop would provide more info on its availability and compatibility. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rqezRLfv7g4&pp=ygUeSGFycm9wIHN1cGVyY2hhcmdlciBlZmZpY2llbmN5

 

Maybe they saw our conversation? I remember it was 99 when you got yours & I looked for it. I paid 79 and now they are 69.

 

Sounds like my issue- they fixed it.

 

I was wondering if yours was doing the same thing. Guess I better plan some down time for the rig. :/

 

How did whipple handle it? They make you send in your blower or they sent you a replacement and shipped yours back?

 

After 5 days on the 5-40, there is only a minor puff of blue/gray smoke at startup. I assume that indicates valve seals? Possibly worse in #8 since it got oily (not anymore)

 

You complete the form, send a video, they review and approve it. They send MHA info you send the blower to them.

 

I packed my blower in a heavy duty plastic container with a ton of padding etc. Turn around time was 7-10 days I think.

 

Forget exactly which one I used, but was one of the I-M Shields off Summit

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/intake-manifold-heat-shields-and-insulators

 

Pretty decent customer service.

 

RMA received from Whipple. Guess I better find somewhere to park this thing and get started on pulling the blower. Any tips? The whipple appears to have easier access to manifold bolts and such than the Magnuson but I'm not sure how similar/different it would to a 2650. I'm not terribly concerned about my ability to pull it, just hoping I don't miss a 'gotcha' and fubar something else.

 

Beer and rock'n roll...

 

Haha. I think I have some A&W around here somewhere somewhere. Might have to break out the Weinhards... that's about as beer'd as I can handle.

 

Nope super easy didn’t take me anytime at all. Do use caution reinstalling etc with the gaskets and the torquing of the bolts

 

That's just as good! I am certain that rock 'n roll helps turn wrenches easier, though.

 

Thanks. Will do.

Whats the easiest way to drain the coolant without making a mess? Pull a fitting off the pump down low in the bumper?

 

yea that’s it

 

Supercharger is out.










Took about an hour, half of that fighting the coolant pump then reading over the install instructions to find what I'd missed... I'm sure the tech is still laughing at me fighting the pump; he clocked the hose clamps in such a way that you couldn't fit pliers, your hand or handss, and the coolant tube all in the same space at the same time. Long nose, angle needle nose, long angled needle nose, pliers built especially for hose clamps, NOTHING had good access to the clamp in a way that you could actually get purchase and squeeze the plier handles! I ended up unmounting the pump from it's bracket, sliding it out a little bit, and getting enough room to barely pinch the clamp and clock it to a spot with better access. Then I was in for a light misting of coolant as I popped the hose open. I mean, better than shower, but it was like taking a leak when a sudden gust swirls around you - you're not drenched but you know you've been got.

Otherwise, it was simpler than I expected. Then I had to heft that beast from of its throne atop the motor.

@reywcms I emailed Whipple to ask, but did you need to drain the oil from the SC before shipping? Coolant is drained as much as possible without turning it over for the night.

My intake seals were pretty oily, but looked intact. Nothing folded over or pinched. I did notice what looked and smelled like fuel from the top of two injectors where they meet the fuel rail. There was a pretty heavy fuel smell when I cracked the SC free from the intake.

And I got a good look at the backside of the valves. Not too bad for 223k miles.. I'll clean up the runners best I can before reassembling, but for now they are taped shut.

 

Nope I did not drain the blower oil.

 

Got one coming for the old mans rig.

 

BADASS!!!! This is a great product and idea!

 

Holy shit is that cooler expensive, I guess when you have Raptor R money what's another $3k for $500 of coolers, BUT YOU GET THAT BILLET END! Even if the billet end goes into a cast 90deg fitting that doesn't flow worth shit