General Supercharger Thread

no, this is from what they initially told me

 

As @centex and other state. Once the pattern gets set you have to send them in for REMing to remove the pattern. They should have all the shims. Sandwiching the super thin ones between thick usually helps.
I did order new Toyota shims that are spec'd for what I have once I re-do my rear with a REM'd unit. I still have whine at 57-60 from being just a tad too deep. The teeth on theses 5.29 pinions are super stout to be just right or a tad shallow.

 

Hope you got a discount

 

Both of those are unacceptable. For the 10.5” rear, backlash should be set between 7 and 9 thou.

 

100% unacceptable. Taller gear do have a tendency to be noisier than stock, but decel whine indicates set up issues.

 

You in AZ, you should take dem gears to ZUK.

 

im 3 hrs from major cities. im pretty rural

 

Unfortunately, I am in UT now, otherwise I would take you up on that.

 

Some shops don't like to keep checking backlash/pinion depth. It's actually a lot easier to get it dead on or a few thou in spec. The pinion head bearing is a bear sometimes. So what if you have to re do it 3x's. At least you have a happy customer.
Hopefully it doesn't get louder and it's low enough to not be noticed...

 

You just south of Showlow. You’re bout 4hrs from ZUK.

 

@mass-hole - responding because i missed the earlier discussion.

I'll start with this: Do you. Forced induction is huge regardless of delivery method. I'm still cheering for anyone going down the path, regardless of approach. Jesse (@TurboKits ) is the man for the kit and components if you have questions about it, but you can't go wrong with either delivery method.

It's pretty well documented at this point, but I spent most of last towing season running between 3-4psi (from what we can tell, this is about 4-5psi on a SC application) and it was everything the truck needed. As @centex stated, it's nice being able to have some control over where the boost is, when, and how much, both mechanically and electronically. Jesse did a great job sizing the turbo for these engines (turbo itself is rated for ~1200HP IIRC). It's most noticeable leading up to positive boost pressures, though. To me, that's the unsung hero of it all. Really no reason to be in positive boost all that much, even towing heavy. Early on in the tow testing they were surprised to see me going into boost as low a 1600rpm, so I wouldn't be too concerned about low rev performance and reasonable Dragy time supports the idea that neither SC or TC are a bad option.

Enjoy the journey, I look forward to following so post up about it.

Kudos to everyone for the solid discussions about options and use cases. Still love this place.

 

With all the recent trans talk I figured this might be the best place for a response. I'm right at 99K miles now (about 45K of that being supercharged). Still on the original differential, transfer case, and trans fluid. Truck is going into the dealer on Saturday for pre-paid oil change. I figured I'd just buy the fluid and do the diffs and transfer case myself, but wondering if I should have the trans pan pulled and refill with fresh fluid or is being at 99K now considered too late and I'm better off just running with it as-is? Trans currently shifts smooth and no issues at all. Thoughts?

 

its very quiet honestly. he said they tried their best and it only a couple thousands out, not a lot.
we had a longer convo about it. i trust them as they do at least 3 re gears a week he said to everything.
and askee his personally what he would do and even he said he would run it without any worries

 

yeah far enough esp since my wife works and ive no way to get home and back

 

I just picked up this unit. So far it does everything that my Techstream laptop does, and does it much easier.

Who are we kidding? The TS program is a pain in the ass to use.

https://a.co/d/gOo6R45

 

Would be a good idea to do a drain and fill on the trans while you're at it, no need to drop the pan unless you are changing the filter as well...which isn't a bad idea. There is a sale going on for SE Toyota dealers, 25% off and free shipping on orders over $75. I just got some fluids and a filter as well, I'm almost at 60K miles and this will be my second time doing the trans fluid. The SC is harder on the trans and regular fluid changes to remove materials in the fluid will prevent increased wear on the valve body.

 

Thanks, I did see the link in another thread about the 25% off. I recall hearing comments about not touching the trans fluid if you're past a certain mileage and it's never been touched before as it can cause issues, but not sure if there is any truth to that. I don't like that I waited so long to touch those fluids, but it is what it is at this point, and I think it needs to be done sooner than later. I'll probably order it now while the sale is going on and do the drain and fill method if that is what's best.

 

@snivilous, was remembering your post about tuning timing for lower elevation. I'm going to be traveling lower altitude in the future and it would be nice not to have to swap pullies......I'm thinking pulling 1 degree for every 1000' but idk lol

 

Man, sure would love to do a killer chiller/ FI Interchiller.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6VD2992eg1k&pp=ygUVVHVuZHJhIGtpbGxlciBjaGlsbGVy

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D51sA-k4ksA&pp=ygUVVHVuZHJhIGtpbGxlciBjaGlsbGVy

 

How low are you going? That rule of thumb probably is pretty good, even conservative I'd say. Usually I find fueling or outright being scared of the boost is a bigger issue than timing. Though ive never done direct comparisons looking at just timing since the other two were also a factor.

 

The first time I went from 7000 down to 1000 I didnt change anything before hand and sent him a log once I got down there. It only needed minor tweaking, and it wasn't in "danger to manifold" territory on the high elevation tune.

 

Drain and fill or drain pan refill with fluid then disconnect cooler return line method. I like clearing out the TC until I see red fluid.

 

Did anyone replay the AFRs several times? I don't know if I'd be okay with the same on my truck...

 

That is wild. Would love to see his IATs. Nevermind watched the first one.

 

I am also generally lazy about swapping pulleys. If boost is a concern a way to keep it at lower boost is counter intuitively to downshift, higher revs will make more power and require less throttle, and throttle is effectively slaved to boost. So low throttle, high rpm = low boost. Leaning into the throttle will quickly ramp up boost as the throttle body opens more but the revs are still low. If I tow the trailer down into Nevada for instance I'm not swapping pulleys, but it'll make a lot of boost that I don't want so I'll force it into 5th or 4th and that'll let me do the speed I want and keep boost low. That's also nearly 4000ft lower and I'm never worried about timing, worst case the truck will pull some and do its thing. I have seen extreme knock retard but that was due to a lack of fueling and afr spiking, that is a bigger hazard is knock from lean out than just timing purely by itself.

 

I guess 12 years ago no one thought anything of AFRs in the 12s on a supercharged tundra.

 

Ahh, I never even looked to see how old the video was.

 

Will be driving through WY to S Montana to see the folks, only about 3000' drop. Last time I rolled up I didn't change pullies but I did have to tune PE a tad richer as I dropped. Now I'm so far past those tune maps I can't even use them lol. Be nice to just set one timing map tune for say 1500/2000' and send it

 

Any time you find yourself stressing about adjusting your tune based on elevation, remember Harrop sends these out the door running the stock tune and some extra fueling bandaids at 6.5psi. It may not be the right, but they’re doing it! I even towed a couple times with it that way before I knew better. PE didn’t come on until 80%ish throttle. I bet a lot of dudes out there installed them that way and left the stock tune too.

 

Shit I wouldn't think twice about it, just send it and watch afr like usual.